Cycling UK Forum

Maybe in the early days there were a few more failures (relative to steel), until tubing sections were optimised and the right balance found between weight, stiffness and strength. If you buy a well made alu frame it will probably outlast a cheap steel frame. If you're too heavy for a light frame or keep riding it over cobbles (or my local potholes) it probably won't last as long. I've had friends who've cracked or broken both steel and alu frames. FWIW in 40 years riding steel frames I've had one frame crack (at the bottom bracket shell), in 10 years riding aluminium I've not had a problem (crosses everything and touches nearest wood pile). Personally I'm always amazed that so many bike parts can be made of carbon fibre. It's a bit like wondering how aeroplanes fly - you know it works but still have to have faith!

I once sent a mate looking for the Col de Sac.

cycleruk wrote:Also in Shropshire is KNOCKIN and it has a shop.

It also has a Women's Institute

There's a North and South Piddle in Worcs. Used to be a Middle Piddle too, but it got washed away.
I've always fancied building a Hall in Faccombe (Hants).
There's a village called Ae in Dumfries, a Moscow in Ayrshire, and a Calgary or two elswhere
and just round the corner from me there's a Cavendish Close (but no cigar!)

Can't comment on that one but I use a Power Monkey https://powertraveller.com/iwantsome/pr ... er/000239/ and it does the job very well. Recharge it from the mains (various adapters supplied). Comes with fair range of output tips, others available quite cheaply. Solar power kit available if required.

My LBS used to have a special tool at the back of the workshop, he used it to stretch new leather cycling shoes so as to accommodate riders bunions. Turned out to be a broom handle

They could be Harden hubs. If so, very nice!

Last time I bought a helmet I bought a couple of spare pad sets at the same time - the reason I needed a new one in the first place was that they'd stopped producing spares for it. I clean my straps every third or fourth ride in soapy water and occasionally run a wet cloth over the top of the helmet. However I now always wear a coolmax Buff http://www.buffwear.co.uk/ under my helmet. in the summer it's not noticeably hotter than not wearing one, in the winter it stops the draughts, and it's much easier to wash that than the pads! One Buff makes two helmet 'liners'.

Wonder how the OP is getting on?

@MickF

Ta for the heads up on other threads on the subject. Yes, I've been through similar processes and trials as you
In days of yore (5 blocks, Regina chains) I used 3-in-1 almost exclusively then, like you, I used LPS3 for a time and rated it highly. I got it from my LBS but haven't seen it around in general shops for some time. Since retiring and having the pleasure of not having to go out in all weathers, I've tended to use 3-in-1 on winter bikes and (you've guessed it) GT85 on summer bikes. Some abortive trials of so-called 'miracle chain lubes' persuaded me that there was no noticeable improvement in chain wear over thinner stuff. Of course I may be wrong, but I don't mind giving my chain a regular wipe over and a fresh spray, coupled with a 'proper' degrease/clean/oil about every 500 miles, I prefer that to gunk building up on every revolving part (and some that don't).

Mick, I congratulate and envy you! I know someone who says he can't get more than 1000 miles out of a 10-speed chain, at the other extreme I've been asked by another why his gears were slipping and had to point out that I could get my finger between the chain and the chainring (not whilst he was pedalling, I might add!). I used to run my blocks/chains to destruction (around 6-7000 miles) but with more sprockets and more flexible chains I now normally change the chain when the Park chain tool shows 3/4% wear, which for me can be anything from 1500 to 2200 miles on 9-speed, depending on weather (I'm also sad enough to keep records ). So I'm approaching a similar cassette mileage to you but (IMHO) I preserve the mechanical efficiency of the drive train. At least we agree on regular chain cleaning

By the by, at the risk of hijacking the thread, I'm using Campag chains but got similar performance from SRAM/Sedis - how about you?

Just so long as he doesn't oil the rims

Mick F wrote:

enigmatic wrote:Modern chains come with a decent grease already applied, and ideally should be left alone until this initial grease wears off.

This is where I disagree entirely!

Each to his own opinion, Mick, and I stand to be corrected if necessary

Exposed bike chains should be lubricated with something that resists collecting grit and muck.

Agree entirely. Unfortunately a lot of the stuff I've tried tends to finish up on my socks!

my chains last for YEARS!

How many miles would that be and in what conditions. My personal preference is to change my chains regularly and I usually manage three chains on one cassette before changing the latter owing to declining gear change efficiency. Maybe I'm just too picky!

Grease (or copaslip) threads/stems/seatposts.

Light oil brake/gear pivots, oil chain. Light oil can include 3-in-1, WD40 or GT85 ((red can with PTFE).

Oil or grease chain. As vorsprung says, chain oil can include 3-in-1, Finish Line or ProLink. In grandad's day the trick was was to boil the chain in paraffin and allow to dry! Modern chains come with a decent grease already applied, and ideally should be left alone until this initial grease wears off. If you ride regularly in the wet it's important to use a chain oil which is heavy enough to stay on for at least a couple of hours whilst you get home. If you ride in the dry then you can get away with GT85 but remember that although it's cleaner it does need regular re-application. Above all keep clean your chain regularly and preferably change it regularly too, otherwise you'll start to lose mechanical efficiency and wear the sprockets and chainrings prematurely.

I agree with rootes, GT85 (and new tyres) are the scent of bike shops ... and my garage!

Toe-in means leading (front of bike) edge hits first. Pressure on the brake and friction with the rim then brings the rear into line. If you don't have toe-in then - especially with less rigid calipers - the front of the pad can lift off the rim by a miniscule amount and start a harmonic motion which causes brake judder or squeal.

http://www.sheldonbrown.com/brandt/brake-squeal.html

Couple of years ago I was riding down a lane and listening to the birds tweeting. Then I realised there wasn't a bird (or tree) in sight. Turned out I needed to oil the front hub