Cycling UK Forum

Couldn’t agree more with all the above posts.
Brucey, all the best for 2022. We’re all thinking of you and wishing you well.

Best wishes,

Luke

Another convert here to hub dynamos and B&M lights. I run Myc, Eyc, Cyo & Luxos models. I think 40-70 LUX range.
The 40-50 LUX models are fine but the 70 LUX is so good it gets my vote on performance alone. I’d be reluctant to have one on a bike that’s locked up unattended though. If this is a factor I’d fit a cheaper model.
Bear in mind some of the basic models don’t have a stand light feature, which is essential IMHO. You have to check the spec small print (Don’t ask how I know this… Doh.)
Best wishes,
Luke

531colin wrote: ↑15 Aug 2021, 9:56am IMG_5501 by 531colin, on Flickr

Same old cassette after yet another winter. I've binned it!

What a good innings!

Best wishes,

Luke

bohrsatom wrote: ↑16 Nov 2021, 9:25pm
Tbh my only concern speed-wise is there's an 8 hour time limit - I'm not too fussed about finishing alongside all the roadies, I just want to make it to the line before the broom wagon!

Finally, thanks for the tips on pacing and nutrition. I give no thought to either of these on my "longer" day rides (50-60 miles) and just travel at the speed I feel like, stopping for coffee/cake or perhaps even pint and a ploughman's mid journey. Neither of these will be an option on the 100 miler

Hi, I think you’ll make it ok. The excitement of the day, the drafting, closed roads etc will all help. Getting the miles in and conditioning the derrière, as mentioned upthread are essential of course.
On one RideLondon I saw a chap on a BorisBike (sadist!), and Boris himself on his Boardman hybrid, with an escort of 3 plainclothes bike cops. (Not the first time he’s enjoyed an escort apparently…)

Re pubs and tea rooms, they’ll likely be plenty en route, and the food will be much tastier than the feedstation options. Give me a ploughmans over gels any day of the week!

Hi, I rode the first two RideLondons, the route went from Stratford to the Surrey Hills and back at the time.
The closed roads, abundance of riders and the adrenaline meant for a fast pace. There were so many riders there’s always a wheel to latch onto. It felt like being in a grand tour peloton.
This style of riding is not really my thing at all. I saw a lot of crashes and kamikaze cycling. Brace yourself! However, the drafting deffo speeded things up.
On these big ride events feed stations can be chaotic, and it’s easy to lose time traipsing around. The snacks / gels on offer might not be to your taste. They can run out of supplies too, particularly if you’re at the back. I’d recommend a top tube bag or handlebar bag with your favourite snacks for grazing on the go. Glucose tablets, jelly babies, dried fruit etc. 2x 750ml+ bottles, perhaps another bottle on the underside of the down tube. All to allow you to bounce/skip a feedstation if desired.
Re the Rene Herse tyres mentioned upthread. I have a few pairs, including the 700 x 32s. They are fast rolling, grippy and super comfy. My absolute favourite tyres. But very expensive. You could dress your spare wheel set with them and keep this for fast rides. However, if you wanted to save cash I’d get Panaracer Paselas, 80-90% as good but 50% of the cost. If you currently run Marathon Plus style puncture proof tyres, most other tyres will roll better.
Best wishes,
Luke

Thanks for the update Steve.
Best of luck with the rehab Brucey.
I’m due to give one of my Nexus 8s it’s annual overhaul and regrease, a process Brucey’s posts made so much easier. Thanks for introducing me to Land Rover semi fluid grease Brucey!
Best wishes,
Luke

Apparently reducing 1) rolling resistance and 2) aero drag will help.
For 1) another +1 for faster tyres. I like Rene Herse tyres but must admit they are silly money. I also like Panaracer Paselas and they’re much cheaper. You could also use extra light tubes or latex tubes for a gnats less rolling resistance.

For 2) Perhaps you could fit narrower flat bars? Or lower your stem? (Only if still comfortable of course).
Drops would likely be more aero, but more of a cost involved.
Tight fitting clothing would deffo be of benefit. (Sorry for stating the obvious, but when in touring mode I’m often in non-cycling clobber, flapping away merrily in the breeze.)
You mentioned loosing weight which would also make you more aero.
Probably worth mentioning that working on ‘the engine’ will further speed things up.
Best of luck with the event. Hope you have a great ride.
Luke

Hi, just to add I totally agree with the positive reviews of the SA drum brakes up thread.

I too have also benefited from an near total lack of maintenance. An occasional twiddle with a barrel adjuster, and once a dab of grease. It’s really impressive on a Commuter bike that sees near daily use in all weathers.

As others have described, the brakes are totally consistent in wet weather. I would say overall the 70 mm drum has the stopping power of an average cantilever brake, And the 90 mm drum has a stopping power of a really good canti. The modulation is pretty nice, not like the “all or nothing” or some V brakes.

Best wishes
Luke

rotavator wrote: ↑19 Sep 2021, 9:37am How do drum brakes perform on long descents with a load on board e.g. on the long descents on Lon Las Cymru?

Hi, I had some brake fade with a 70mm SA front drum Dynamo hub, on one 20% descent in the Lake District. Described here:
viewtopic.php?f=5&t=143594&p=1575053#p1575053
It was a busy narrow single lane road, with passing places, on a laden touring bike. I had to drag the brakes more than I would have liked. This was the only example of brake fade in around five years plus of ownership.
However, I’ve since fitted the 90mm drum Dynamo hub. Braking is stronger, though I’ve yet to test it on a long steep descent.
Best wishes,
Luke

Well done Krashper, she’s a peach! Great job bringing her back from the dead. Lovely shade of blue.

Johnno260 wrote: ↑14 Sep 2021, 10:51pm My other idea is getting a frame set with forks, and transferring my group set over.

I upgraded to 105 R7000 recently and I have some DCR wheels as well.

I would need to get a new stem and seat post maybe

Hi, I did the above. Brought a VN Yukon and some bits from “Fat Birds Don’t Fly” shop, via cycle to work 9-10 years ago. They might still offer frames only?

My Yukon was very well made and easy on the eye, but I didn’t like the ride. Felt leaden and dead. I’m a lightweight, was 63kg then, and a spinner. My riding is slow audax & audax-style rides, 100-200km. I prefer more flexy, skinny tubed steel frames, 23-25” size range. YMMV of course.

Best of luck with the search!

Luke

Thanks Jamessh for sharing the update.
Touching to read how valued and respected he is by the Beemer gang too.
Best wishes Brucey, hang in there.
Cheers
Luke

Looking good!
I really like that shade of blue.
She’s ready for the next 64 years
I’m currently slacking on my bike related projects, so really applaud your hard graft on this one.
Best wishes,
Luke

Gearoidmuar wrote: ↑6 Jul 2021, 7:17pm I used these for years on my touring bike which is a 26in Thorn Raven tour. Can't get them anymore. The alternatives I'm using are noticeably slower.

Is there a similar slick narrow tyre with a flexible carcass available?

There were Panaracer tyres of similar character, but fatter back then too. Are they still around?

Hi, Panaracer still make Pasela in 26 X 1.75”. I find them fast, supple and comfy. Moderate puncture protection. Some report problems with fragile sidewalls. Never had a problem myself.

The fastest rolling, most supple and comfy 26” tyre I have used is by Rene Herse. 26 X 1.8”. Had to sell a kidney for a pair but worth it IMHO. Sublime.
However, bear in mind no puncture protection at all. Perhaps an issue depending on the intended use.

Have used Schwalbe Kojaks, Big Apples, Supremes, Mondials and City Jets over the years in 26” size, 1.75 - 2” widths. My preference would be for Paselas or the Rene Herse ones if speed / low rolling resistance / comfort are priorities. I find both pretty grippy too.
Best wishes,
Luke

WalthamCity wrote: ↑28 Jun 2021, 7:41pm Hi everyone,

Thanks again for all the advice. Indeed the hub was fixable! I took it to a repair shop more experienced with hub gears and they took it apart, serviced it and replaced the worn parts. All for a very reasonable price!

The T-100 is now cycling like a dream again and I’ll be riding it for a good few years yet.

Hi, great to hear!
Just curious, did they replace the entire hub innards via a transplant from a fresh hub? Or was only a minor repair required?
Can you name the shop? Shops that can service hub gears are few and far between so that would be great intel to share. (Name and shame the shop that quoted you £400 for a repair too! Robbin Barstewards.)
Best wishes,
Luke