Cycling UK Forum

Bez wrote: Might also be worth investigating some intermediate sized guards, too, eg Axiom Rainrunners come in 40mm.

that's useful info - thanks.
do you have any experience with these? are they a shallower profile than chromplastics?

531colin wrote:So, at the risk of repeating myself, is anybody else using cassettes that old?

best I can get is 5 chains per 9 speed cassette - c. 12500 miles - before a new chain skips on 5th and 6th out of the saddle.
sram pc971 chains replaced at .75% wear as per park cc-3 tool.

I've had kojaks that weighed 20% more than advertised.
I don't think there is much in the way of QC. otherwise, how could something so easily measurable and so far out of spec' leave the factory?

in the car, i just let them by, when safe. although It's not an issue around these parts, as long as you keep up with traffic flow and don't pull out in front of other drivers and continue at half their speed.
i'll stop riding my motorbike is I find myself going slow enough to be tailgated...

shouldn't a carbon steerer protrude past the top of the stem with the use of a 5mm spacer below the topcap? That’s how I prefer it even with metal steerer tubes, but Park Tool doesn’t seem to insist upon this even with carbon fibre . I like to err heavily on the side of caution with these things. m...

shouldn't a carbon steerer protrude past the top of the stem with the use of a 5mm spacer below the topcap?

I just packed my cheap Tiagra with waterproof grease and it is now at 9,000 miles without issues. The bike doesnt get cleaned except for the chain and sprockets. If you havent put too much pre-load on the bearings it is the water ingress that gets them. thanks. but is this one of the later types wi...

HTII 41mm OD cup BB - just wondered if these are lasting longer than the old standard. supposedly better seals, but smaller bearings

decathlon B'TWIN 300 Padded Cycling Shorts have a flat foam pad. if you can't try them on, get a size larger than normal - they're tight. i'm the opposite - I find a moulded pad much more comfortable.. EDIT: it depends what you mean by 'sculpted'? the pad in the above linked shorts is the '100' pad ...

IIRC with some liquid fluxes, the best method is to heat the cable end and dip it in the flux, repeating as necessary until the cable end will then wet with solder OK. If the flux left is on the cable end, and the part is overheated, the wetting action may again be inhibited; some overheated fluxes...

do you think it is a question of power? I have (with the right flux and solder for galvanised cables) had good luck with a >50W iron, or one of these; The great thing about these is that they heat up almost instantly and have a fair amount of grunt (about 100W IIRC). They are no good for delicate e...

I stopped putting anti-seize on HTII splines when I had a crank arm start to walk off the end of the axle. strange thing was that the pre-load cap had undone at a similar rate and was undamaged??
clean splines and a re-torque after 50 miles for me from now on....

for those who prefer to solder their cable ends, I've found THIS reasonably priced flux to be effective for use with stainless cables and ordinary lead/tin solder. ah! I probably fancy that a bit more than phosphoric acid TBH. I might have to get some. BTW is it paste, powder or liquid? cheers liqu...

for those who prefer to solder their cable ends, I've found THIS reasonably priced flux to be effective for use with stainless cables and ordinary lead/tin solder.

does the oil in WD40 stay fluid?
IME, using it as a surface protector for exposed chrome on motorbikes kept in a damp shed, it dries to a soft varnish over the course of a winter.