Cycling UK Forum

hmm, looks good, any chance of the discount for reviews on this forum ?

Yep, lots of discussion on this every winter!
I've had a set of Schwalbe snow studs on my winter/ off road bike for 6 or 7 years now. They're slow, but fantastic !

Yep, those ultegra wheels are really tight!

For marathon plus tyres (on different wheels) I carry a few 6'' reusable zip ties in the toolkit. They weigh very little and hold the tyre in place whilst I'm doing battle with it.
Not that they've punctured in the 5000 miles they've been on.

good luck!

You could see what someone like these guys say http://www.carboncyclerepairs.co.uk/con ... ics_3.html, maybe a front mech mount could be bonded on.

I don't have a front derailleur on my (old steel) commuter. 13-26 with a 38 ring is fine for that ride, but then on the commuter I'm never trying to ride particularly fast, climbing slow and freewheeling downhill

One thing to be aware of is that the chain may occasionally come off the ring when the chain is running at much of an angle. You can get chainrings that prevent this, like this 9/10 speed one http://www.wiggle.co.uk/hope-single-chainring/

Ah yes, I meant 12 splined sprocket...

It's in good condition, so I'll keep it on for now. I can always swap the driver in the future if necessary.

Ah, thought I'd try a speculative tap with a screwdriver and the lockring un locked.

It seems I have a 12 splined lockring, how exotic!

I have an alloy shelled AM hub, which I'm finally building into a wheel. It has a sprocket fitted, which I want to remove to allow room to spread the spokes. However the hub does not appear to have a snapring holding the sprocket on, is the sprocket likely to be threaded as suggested here https://colwoodwheelworks.co.uk/sturmey ... t-problem/ and would the lock ring holding it in place be threaded like a fixed wheel lockring ? (afraid I cant upload any pics..) I'd like to know before I get too carried away trying to remove it.

If it is the case that it is threaded, is it worth replacing the driver with the more usual sturmey type?

thanks for any insights.

Cancelled my membership last night after almost 20 years involvement.
Will use the membership money to join the tcc and vcc, and make a donation to the cyclists defence fund...

I use a smart light on the back of the rack using one of these brackets http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Smart-Rear-Pa ... Sw8gVX2W07

I also use a cheap lidl light set. like this, http://www.lidl-service.com/cps/rde/SID ... ight%20Set The lights are good, for £6!, and both have the german k mark, their equivilant to the various BS marks. Under EU law I believe that makes them legal over here too.

Hmm, I think my record headset was over tensioned by the bike shop, I got about 6 months out of it

To be fair, over tensioning will kill any headset.

I set my own up these days!

The cyo is a great light. Recommended. Before I had one of those I had a Lumotec IQ fly. 40 lux as opposed to the 60 or more of the cyo. Still enough for the lanes in the dark, it's on my commuter now. I only mention it because there's one here viewtopic.php?f=32&t=105107 for a tenner.

Insurance and legal cover, plus a feeling that you are supporting cycling. You could get this from BC or CUK, but after having the CTC taken away, you may prefer to give your money to BC

Well... BC membership costs about the same for insurance / legal cover. And it seems to be full of club cyclists like me! (although a bit more sporty maybe). Oh, and I'll get 10% off at chain reaction.

That's about as positive as I can get.

Good luck with it.

+1

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Gb4eZ7Z5yk8

I'm not a racer, but I've just checked out BC membership. I think I have more in common with them than with the 'not the cyclists' touring club'

Never thought I'd see the day...

I'm about 5' 10'' and run 160mm cranks. I started using them as an experiment to see if had any effect on (right) knee pain I got on 170 cranks. I don't get that pain anymore, except when I use the one bike I have left with longer cranks. I think that my knee is particularly affected by the sharpness of the angle it has to adopt at the top of the pedal stroke, and this can be lessened using shorter cranks.

I use the spa cranks, well made, cheap and look good.

But I did want to add to the discussion (unless I missed it up post) that crank shortening is possible, by this chap http://www.bhpc.org.uk/short-and-sweet- ... rrows.aspx amongst others . It would allow you more choice of both crank make and length. ( though I'm not sure about shortening hollow cranks like these http://ropeandcanvas.blogspot.co.uk/201 ... ranky.html )