Cycling UK Forum

basic historical question, to which I do not know, but would like to know the answer. Why was the RHS chosen for the drive side. Seeing as most things take years to standardise, this seems to have been adopted rather quickly. Is it

a) because they invented it on the continent, and a low level rear light would interfere with chain etc.

b) something to do with the bb threads,

C) just because

Any one know?

Mick F wrote:

reohn2 wrote:As I've said many time on here Mick,you're a rarety,and if you can see the dents in the leather you're not sat on the cantle plate

Cantle plates don't dent, but leather does.

Brooks.JPG

Where are your dents?

You have a big bum, and sit well back!

I too have a big bum and I too sit well back. I think its something to do with the positioning of the center of gravity. ie lighter (not big bumm'd people) may move their saddle forwards.

Also trends change I think. Often , whilst looking at vintage stuff on the 'bay of bad dreams' I note that bikes of the 40's ish, used to have a weird seat post that extended forwards , like an inverted 'L', and the saddle clamped maybe 2"-3" forward of the seatpost. Also the riding position was such that the drops were used , with the levers rotated right down. Nowadays we tend to sit further back, and use the tops,/ hoods more. Who is to say which is right. I would suspect the former would be comfy, once you got used to it.
Also our physiology has changed some what in the last 50/60 years. Back then people excersized more, had physical jobs, walked to work, no macdonalds and pizzas, money was tight, no tv/couch potato syndrome, so people were generally leaner and fitter. Hence the populariy of the new e-bikes.

' goes off to get tea and biscuits for this one.

Ok , getting slightly confused now, with what I thought I knew.. Seat angles say the BJ is 73 degree, what is steeper 72 or 74 and by steeper I mean more vertical. I cant work out which way the numbers go . (Well it is 1.30 am an I have just come back from the worst diner party of my life!)

gerrymcm wrote:That's a really good question and one that I'm sure lots of folks have researched.
I've never had a custom frame but have nosed around the web dreaming and come across this guy.
http://www.steve-goff-frames.co.uk/bicycles.shtml

Gerry

Well my previous frame, a Pearson 631, developed a crack in its bottom bracket shell> I asked around for quotes, and avg was around £135. plus painting, so I gave up, and bought the Bob Jackson frame. BUT now the wet /filthy lanes are back with us I have been looking for a hack frame to take 28mm and mudguards. Anyway gave up looking and thought once again about the Pearson frame. So looked once again at the prices for repair, then Steve Goff's name appeared on t'google page. No price indication, so I gave him a ring. To replace with a new h/d cast bb shell, and to clean up joints, and mask off and 'blow some paint on' (not really fussed what colour as its a winter bike) £100!!!!!!!!!!! That seems a good deal to me, and I have heard some glowing reports of his 'brazemanship'. Prices for new frames look competetive tho.
(he has subsequently received my frame and burned off the paint to examine the cracked shell. Apparently the framebuilders had not 'rammed home 'the tubes far enough, so were hanging on with t'fingernails as it were. ''Can you still fix it? says I.....''Oh I, I can fix it'' says he)

531colin wrote:

broadway wrote:..............BJ only do their standard sizes now, so not made to measure.

I'm surprised and somewhat saddened by that. Although as it must be 25 years since I had them build me a frame, I'm hardly keeping them in business.
...."custom" is still mentioned on their website, though?

Indeed Colin, sign of the times I rekon. All frames now are Off the peg, but there is some flexibility, just not the old '' inside leg sir!'' Colin your bike is lovely and Im sure fits you perfectly. I would never succomb to the 'custom' thing. Bodies get used to most positions not all of them right. Interestingly I remember a section in Simon Dougherty's book 'long distance cycling', regarding alterations to position. HE suggests measuring /marking everything before you start, then document each move of each component as a reference point ''or to put it back to where you started'' We get comfy in a position , and thats it, change it and look out, can of worms opened.

Interstingly enough tho, I'd never done the KOPS things, so this morning , just before my ride I checked it out..and its actually spot on! I have always liked a stretched out cockpit tho. Regarding seat post angles , I would have thought a standard old frame design like the BJ would be based on angles that were popular 25+ years ago, and have prob varied little in recent years. .

531colin wrote:

I'm not sure whether your BJ is made-to-measure or off-the-peg......but if I was having a frame made to measure, I wouldn't want the saddle as far back as it will go in a layback post......or a quill stem "right up to the mark".
I don't expect to grow any more (and in fact I'm at that paradoxical age where I'm getting shorter, but my feet are getting further away )....but I like to keep a little bit of adjustment "in hand".

Ah! ''saddle as far back as it will go in a lay back post''.........................

Well actually it isn't, There is prob another 5mm rearward movement, and the clamp in the Nitto SP72, is quite large. If I were to put in the VO grand Cru lay back, with the smaller clamp, it could go back ooooh... 12mm. and as you know the Spa Nidd has longer rails than the Brooks. Also because of the saddle design , with the metal horseshoe underneath,one has to put the saddle further back than a plastic jobbie, where one can at least perch on the end.


''or a quill stem right up t the max''

Well actually it isn't either. It is in fact a Nitto technomic stem with a quill length of 190mm!!! so ooooooooh.. about another 4" to go then.

I have seen your very detailed pictures on setting a bike up re KOPS and saddle height, / bar height etc, and frankly if that works for you then best of luck. Personally I could not ride a bike in such a position, This Bob Jackson is extreemly comfortable for me. The top tube is 10mm shorter than the Pearson it replaced, and I used to push the saddle right back on that as well. Its just how I ride, and this is much more comfortable for me.

Not forgetting Bob Jackson of course.



Here'z my 'world tour' frame built up, Frame and paint, and a few minor alterations was £605. and headset was fitted free.
Born on 01/01/2014 ( first ride actually the 2nd as it was peeing down)

Weimarunner wrote:Brilliant FF, just the info, thanks.
I think I may try the velo orange post, has anyone bought from fresh tripe or pedalpedlar? Or can anyone recommend a uk seller?

Fresh tripe are fine, they are in uk, have bought from them before.VO post is good. The length of the clamp is quite short, allowing a bit extra slide back. also try the Nitto ones from HUBJUB. http://www.hubjub.co.uk/index.php/store/seat-posts I've got the sp72 Jaguar, but the s84 looks like its got loads of set back


alternatively sell your brooks for £40, and buy a SPA NIDD for £40. essentially the same saddle, but with thicker leather, and longer seat rails.
l
https://yacf.co.uk/forum/index.php?topic=71796.0

Dimensions of rails pictured half way down page 1. I've still got it, and about to buy a second for my winter bike.

mattsccm wrote:How tidy do you need?
I have a clamp on Race Triple that I would swap but the bolt hole area where the cable clamp has been welded. The profile isn't original and the lacquer has gone a nice goldy colour. A bit of filing would sort the profile out. Clamp bolt thread is now recut and fine. It wore out.

Dont suppose you'd consider parting with it would you. I after a cheap campy triple 28.6 band on, for my winter bike build, 'post bottom bracket shell replacement'. Trying to put it back on the road, sourcing cheap parts from far and wide. it IS a challenge.

wouldn't bother with indexed system for that kind of trip!, get some old 7/8 speed thumbshifters, or (modern equivalent from sJS and the like), but make sure they have the 'non-index' option. then when the cables get dry and the mechs full of dust, you flick the lever, and bingo, perfect non indexed shifting. In fact I got so peed off with indexing woes, that now ALL my bikes run non indexed systems. Why do you need it any way unless your racing? Its a recent invention anyway, to get 'non cycling numpties' comfortable with changing gear.

Am I right in thinking that the OP has bought a C17, ie a cloth cover cambium, or was it a typo, and its a b17.
If the latter then it is the silly shiny surface they put on it, plus the inbuilt hammock. My Spa Nidd, (b17) does not have this as the leather is not shiny, and there is no hammock due to much thicker leather.
If its the former, then its still got the hammock shape due to the metal horseshoe at the rear. Sugest tilting slightly nose up as with all b17s.

ANTONISH wrote:I want a new bike. Trouble is I've got seven already. I would like to donate a couple (both serviceable) to a recycling charity.
Does anyone know of such an organisation within an hour's driving from North Kent?

If you are around 6'0" to 6'2", and have a winter steel hack road bike, capable of 28mm and guards, I might just be the charity your looking for. I'm Also in N.kent. lanes around Meopham can get awful in winter,

reohn2 wrote:

yostumpy wrote:

reohn2 wrote:I rode H368's and H308's for yonks but I wouldn't go back to them for free.For comfort and speed I can recommend these tyres without reservation :- http://www.rosebikes.co.uk/article/vitt ... aid:643237
Or if your bike will take bigger:- http://www.planetx.co.uk/i/q/TYVIVOHY/v ... lding-tyre
They're are lighter than the Marathons by at least 150g,last as long if not longer,are faster and more comfy by far,and are very puncture resistant.

Otherwise I'd be looking at folding Ribmos,also a quick tyre that last,are very puncture resistant,but aren't aren't as comfy as the Hypers,but will outlast Marathons easily.

hmm! those Vittorias start at 32, but measure 35 apparantly, My Bob Jackson, has a 32mm max recommendation.? could be a spendy mistake if they dont fit.

It's the 37s that measure 35mm,the 32mm measure 32mm.

I'm half tempted to give these a go. So you reckon there as fairie proof as the M. kevlars but lighter and quicker. have to look for a good deal.

reohn2 wrote:I rode H368's and H308's for yonks but I wouldn't go back to them for free.For comfort and speed I can recommend these tyres without reservation :- http://www.rosebikes.co.uk/article/vitt ... aid:643237
Or if your bike will take bigger:- http://www.planetx.co.uk/i/q/TYVIVOHY/v ... lding-tyre
They're are lighter than the Marathons by at least 150g,last as long if not longer,are faster and more comfy by far,and are very puncture resistant.

Otherwise I'd be looking at folding Ribmos,also a quick tyre that last,are very puncture resistant,but aren't aren't as comfy as the Hypers,but will outlast Marathons easily.

hmm! those Vittorias start at 32, but measure 35 apparantly, My Bob Jackson, has a 32mm max recommendation.? could be a spendy mistake if they dont fit.