Cycling UK Forum

I'm not on Facebook, so there may be the longer version I am not seeing - I get a 15 second clip from the link above.

I'd seen a longer (roughly 1 minute) version of the same thing previously.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oltX2dxHYDE

I think it's a positive, clever campaign.

Wasn't there something a bit similar on here a while back where a new poster came back a few days later and edited a first post to include some dodgy links that were then picked up whenever the original post was quoted? In that case the same quote / post was used across sites, but an existing post gets you a credible foothold in the forum in the style of existing forum users.

I think this was the thread viewtopic.php?p=1638379

So it will be interesting to see if the original post gets edited at some point.

If a lower mounting point works better for you, this style of bracket with a U-bolt could be another way to mount a rack on the unicrown stay above the brake: https://www.jandd.com/detail.asp?PRODUCT_ID=FMONO

Photos 3 and 4 here https://www.jandd.com/Technotes/technotes_rack.asp show it in situ - though it will probably work best if it is tightened up a bit more than in the pictures! For your bike, the bracket would need to not foul the brake cable - I think from your photo that there would be space.

I can’t find a UK-based Jandd dealer, and their shipping cost to UK is silly, but you could perhaps steal the idea and fashion something similar with a rubber- or plastic-coated U-bolt that fits around the unicrown - like this but matched to the size of your tubing: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/113690510744 and a rack bracket something like this but wide enough to span the legs of the chosen U-bolt: https://www.tritoncycles.co.uk/accessor ... ket-p39813 with holes drilled to match the legs of the U-bolt.

It's far too easy if you can see the numbers on the lock! I have that model of lock and the numbers are embossed so you can still see them if/when the paint starts to wear off.

We have a Kryptonite combination lock with a revolutionary design feature - the numbers are just printed on the lock with no embossing, so as the paint wears off, there's no way to see what the numbers are any more. I put up with it for years as it got worse and worse, working by dead reckoning from the one or two numbers that are still faintly visible. It has been on the shelf by the front door for about 4 years, unused and unloved - thank you - this thread had given me the prompt to finally throw it out!

You could go for a "double homophone score" and take the dog to Wheal Rose (Rows, Roes, Rhos etc........).

You can get by with zip-ties on some suspension forks. I did this (below) to avoid getting splashed on one ride about 15 years ago and never got around to re-doing it properly. The mudguard moves with the suspension fork. It still passes the not rattling when you shake it test. Same approach would work with the current generation of SKS Secu-clips. This is now more a commuter bike you can take on off-road paths and bridleways than a full-on MTB you would ride down mountains. This was a 650 / 26 inch mudguard rather than a 700C so it has clearance around a “city” tyre but would not work with a fatter knobbly MTB tyre.

According to the Go Time manual, the 4 digit number is simply the "rollout" of the tyre in mm, or in other words, the circumference.

According to this thread viewtopic.php?t=62099 the rollout of a Brompton tyre is 1267mm, but that is calculated rather than measured. It should be right enough, but you could measure it yourself with your particular tyres.

The manual has instructions to do this:

To measure rollout
Tools required: helper, pen, and measuring tape
+ With the valve stem of the wheel directly over the floor, sit on the bike.
+ Have your helper mark the floor at the valve stem.
+ Roll the bike forward one revolution of the wheel, so that the valve stem is
again directly over the floor.
+ Mark the new location of the valve stem.
+ Measure the distance between the marks. If needed, convert to millimeters.
The result is your custom wheel size. Go to the next page to program the
GoTime with your wheel size.

The manual also has instructions for entering a custom wheel size on page 24. That's the manual you get via this link https://manuall.co.uk/bontrager-gotime- ... -computer/

Otherwise, if you put in 1267 for now, and then tell us what make and size tyres you have, that will be right within a few %, and then someone on here may may be able to come up with a more accurate figure.

Good luck!

Ortleib do a different design of adapter (that probably only works with the Ortleib bracket, but you say you have an Ortleib bag) from the RK mount linked above that has more range and can get at least some lights above, or below, a bar bag. I've seen it used to successfully mount lights enough above a bag that there isn't the kind of shadow / cut off mentioned above. It looks a bit odd, and you can't invert the bike to mend punctures etc. It will all depend on the lights and the size of your bar bag / how much it sticks out above the bracket, and the angle the bag is mounted at etc. but it's another option.

https://www.sjscycles.co.uk/luggage/ort ... s-gps-etc/

When asking about titanium repairs I got replies from Enigma and Vernon Barker Cycles:
https://www.vernonbarkercycles.co.uk/re ... rames.html

I didn’t find anywhere else but I am sure there are others. That was a while ago - good prompt to try and get my own Ti frame sent off and repaired after three years riding on Trigger’s broom.

In the early 1980s there was "Tuffy Tape" which was a transluscent plastic strip that lined the inside of the tyre. The ends were feathered and overlapped a bit. Inner tubes still seemed to wear at the point of the overlap, especially if the tyres were under-inflated, so you ended up with an impression of the curved end of the tape in the inner tube, which could fail. I used Tuffy Tape for a while and then stopped because it seemed to cause more problems than it solved.

It appears that you can still get something similar called Mr Tuffy. They may have solved some of the issues in the intervening 30+ years.https://www.amazon.co.uk/Mr-Tuffy-Bicyc ... B00MCKB5SM

The overlap seemed to be the point of failure, so having lots of overlaps spaced all around the wheel with this interlocking plate system may not be a step forwards. Getting the plates curved and sitting in the right place inside the tyre and then fitting the inner tube looks as if it may be easier said than done, especially if you had to do it at the roadside. I can foresee much cursing as the interlocking plates spring out of the other side of the tyre as you try and get the inner tube in.

GriffLiners say they welcome enquiries via their Facebook page https://en-gb.facebook.com/GriffLiners/ but this looks a bit dormant, with not much going on for 4 years or more: maybe the market has since concluded that this wasn't such a good idea after all?

As noted above, Kevlar bands and other puncture guard bands that are integral to the tyre seem a better solution.

This thread

viewtopic.php?t=17121

mentions a historic incompatibility between Ortleib and KLICKfix, since resolved.

I have used different bags, from the “bent coat hanger” era Karrimor, through Vaude and Carradice to recent Ortleib Ultimate with the same KLICKfix mount. In a world where Mini-USB turns into Micro-USB and then USB-C, having a standard mount that still works across brands and over decades is refreshing!

Recycling helmets is all a bit "old hat"......

Instead, they should apparently be "upcycled" - re-used as e.g. hanging baskets, storage bowls or lamps: https://discerningcyclist.com/recycle-bicycle-helmet/

These are Uno bar ends on an older Brompton. I'm not sure if my bars are what is now called M-style? They are whatever came with the bike! The bar ends are out of the way with plenty of clearance when the bike is folded. The only problem is you have to squidge the right-hand bar end past the tyre as you fold and unfold. It works fine, and would probably work better if I had straight bar ends. Mine bend inwards a bit, so they will foul the tyre more during the folding process. I don't know the model of my Uno bar ends, but they are fairly standard / generic cheap alloy bar ends, but give some different grip positions compared to the original bars.

You could contact Cycle of Good info@cycleofgood.com. They refurbish old Mailstars as Elephant Bikes and may have either new replacements they use to replace worn parts, or used parts, lying around the factory. They sorted me out with a replacement seatpost when someone stole this and the saddle from my Elephant Bike.

OK thanks.

I would then check that the saddle wasn’t delivered with no tension at all applied via the tensioning bolt as per the last post, and then assuming that is not the case, go back to the seller and say that this happened after a short ride, and that according to other owners, it is not normal.