Cycling UK Forum

Below is a GB saddle that must have done well over 10000 miles. It isn’t perfectly flat, but is comfortable and it hasn’t sagged much in 10 years. I haven’t touched the tension adjuster and also don’t regularly douse it in the GB beeswax-smelling equivalent of Proofide. Maybe gets a quick wipe over once a year.

Is yours new or pre-owned? If new, it looks like an exception to the rule which should be exchanged. If secondhand, maybe it has been lathered in excess leather dressing which has softened it.

I know people who have recent Brooks “hammocks” as well. It usually turns out they regularly use masses of Proofide, and are enthusiastic turners of the tension bolt.

“If it ain’t broke, there’s no need to try to fix it” seems to be good general advice for leather saddles of all makes.

There are two bollards on the cut-through between Fen Rd and the towpath, but the narrowest gap between the “ears” at the top is 130cm so you should be fine.

I thought they mostly stopped a while back around 2010 and some became Elephant Bikes….

https://www.cycleofgood.com/elephant-bike/

Click on the “Heritage” link.

Our postie saw mine in the drive and had a nostalgic ride on it. He also showed me the scuff on the telegraph pole at handlebar height from having bikes leaned against it. I also got the NOS Carradice panniers to go with it.

They used to deliver letters, but now it is mostly brown cardboard boxes in electric trolleys…..

hufty wrote: ↑12 May 2022, 5:23pmMy suggestions would be those bicycle footpumps where you put a foot on the unit and pulled repeatedly on a webbing strap to turn a compressor until either the tyre was half inflated or the unit broke.

Seconded! I’d forgotten this but it is still lying on a shelf. Brilliantly useless. Warning about overuse and the judder as you pull the cord. Too small to steady with your foot. Ridiculously short springy hose that angles and depresses the valve core. Dial with ranges for “Children” “Mountain” and “Road”. Oh, and you can’t pump tyres up to any useful pressure with it. Apart from that, it is wonderful.

Thanks for reminding me I once paid good money for this!

Waiting for the oven to warm up to put the bread in......

Southend-on-Sea Borough (City??) Council has a site for reporting highway faults

https://www.southend.gov.uk/report-park ... ad-problem

On it it lets you report problems with road signs and then it lets you report

What's the issue with?
and you can select from a drop down Road Markings

then it asks

What's wrong?
and you can select from another drop down Faded/Worn/Missing

and then add location etc.

Trek do quite a nice one. Quite expensive, but it does come with a free Trek Soho commuter bike.

David2504 wrote: ↑22 Mar 2022, 7:20pm Thanks. It’s not the seat post. Definitely coming from pedal/crank area.

Over the years, I have had two of these where the noise was definitely coming from the pedal/crank area that turned out to be something different.

The first eventually turned out to be a cracked steel chainstay, after swapping out cleats, pedals, chainring bolts, chainset, BB, saddle, seatpost etc. etc.

The second was the seatpost on a friend's alloy Specialized Diverge. The seat tube flares out, and bits of dirt/grit/seatpost (no. I've no idea how they get in there either - maybe from the BB area when mending a puncture) get caught between the post and the frame, and make a creaking noise when you pedal and rock the seatpost that is 100% definitely coming from the pedal/crank area, except it isn't. A quick sweep with a bottle brush sorted it.

So I wouldn't discount anything, even if you are 100% sure it can't possibly be the cause!

.....this heron considering its options.

Hard to tell!

The event's Facebook page suggests they don't think they have any events coming up:
https://www.facebook.com/pg/BellesandBu ... e_internal
Not much seems to have happened since last September when the previous event was cancelled.
Thats where Highland Perthshire Cycling send you for more information from this page
https://www.highlandperthshirecycling.com/events-1
You could contact them and see if they know:
https://www.highlandperthshirecycling.com/about-contact
There are no events listed in either May or September 2022 here, but they could have changed booking agent since then:
https://www.sientries.co.uk/index.php?page=L

I seem to have 2 spare sets of 31.8mm clamps with the original screws so the OP would be welcome to one set of those, though I am not sure that is the cause of problem here.

As above, I would check that the clamps slide freely in the mounting block and that screws you have will pull the clamp in beyond the point where the aperture is handlebar shaped (i.e. round) when it is off the bike. So from a position like the one at the front below, through circular, and onwards towards something more like the one at the back, which would be squashing the bars. Or just check that the back face of the mounting block is hard up against the front of the bars.

Good luck!

I don't think you took too a huge financial risk either, especially if you have the box as well:

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/265531782753

They may not sell for that of course, but it's still quite a bit more than a fiver!

This is my Rixen and Kaul adapter with the stock 31.8mm clamps on Deda 31.8mm bars. The mount hasn't moved (for over 10 years!) and won't twist upwards (i.e. in the opposite direction to one the cable retention resists) even if you tug it quite hard. There are no shims - just the bare clamps on the bars. The retaining cable seems to go the same route as the one in the third picture in the OP - i.e. over the bars and looping around under the stem. I'd check that the two ends of the retaining cable are tightly secured in the two metal blocks it feeds through, and that the adapter is actually pushing against the front of the bars when you tighten the screws that go into the handlebar clamps up. The latter don't need to be super-tight - I know this because I have stripped the tread in one in the past.

As above, I'd check bar diameter and see if the bars are parallel or tapering at the point where they are being clamped.

The smaller RK clamp on a parallel 25.4mm bar looks like this - it is a snug fit, no wobble or rattle, with the arms pointing out roughly parallel even when not tightened up. This was also the case when I used the 31.8mm clamp on 31.8mm bars.
The larger (31.8mm) clamp (which looks like yours) and is much looser with a bigger gap than your looks to have on the same 25.4mm bar. This is obviously not tightened up with the bracket in place, but it is a big gap.
So as above, I think you may be trying to clamp on a taper. Do you know the make/model of the bars or the diameter of the stem (i.e.is it for 31.8mm bars?). Some 31.8mm bars have a bulge just in the middle.

(Edited to make the photos the same way up as they look on my phone, and to clarify that the 31.8mm clamp is a snug fit on 31.8mm bars too)

Or there was also the very rare UK-only re-release:

I got some from here:

https://h-lloyd-cycles.myshopify.com/co ... s/reynolds

I think there used to be some checking / control of Reynolds decals so you had to demonstrate you had a worthy frame and couldn't buy them and apply them to any old frame, but that seems to no longer be the case.

Otherwise loads and loads can be found on a popular online auction site.