Cycling UK Forum

Thanks - had originally been searching the forum for "winter" waterproof gloves so that thread about summer waterproof gloves didn't come up. Doh!

Have been looking at Altura Evo Night Vision gloves on line but haven't found any in a shop to try before I buy (from the shop).

Have you considered Magura Hydraulic Rim Brakes (HS33s)? Heavy compared to a pair of cantilevers but loads of power and modulation, and standard kit on some a few Rohloff-equipped trekking bikes. I've toured with an older version (HS66) for years and never had any problems and never had the dreaded cut hydraulic line etc (although I have gradually upgraded the hoses over time to braided steel). The other great thing is they're basically maintenance free in the same way as a rohloff is maintenance free compared to derailleurs - you don't have to faff around with cables and inner cables and adjustments and all that sort of nonsense.

As I put my wet gloves on the radiator to dry out...
Has anybody got any recommendations for gloves for cycle touring with a tent in the cold and wet, eg Scotland in August ;o)?

My main consideration is easy of drying. I've used your typical goretex winter gloves in the past but once they get wet inside they're a swine to dry as the lining is fixed (although if your hand is cold and damp you can accidentally pull the lining out which is a real pain). At the moment I use fleece gloves with goretex overmitts. It's easy to split the layers for drying, but the mitts are annoying to wear as they slip around all the time and catch on things, and it's a pain getting them on and off. Can anyone recommend anything better?

I've got the Endura Venturi 2 jacket (not from Spa though). Cut etc is fine, lots of pit zips etc, but it's an expensive jacket spoiled by the following points which means I wouldn't really recommend it.
(i) the chest pocket is only taped along the bottom. After a very short time and practically no use the tape fails so you haven't got a pocket. I think you can glue it back somehow but you shouldn't have to. I sent one jacket back but this happened to the replacement too. Think it's bad design rather than ham-fisted me.
(ii) the optional hood looks a bit geeky but once you've played with and got it adjusted tight it works really well. The minor problem is when you have it zipped on to the jacket but not on your head it tends to half unzip itself easily which is a pain.
(iii) it's the most breathable material since the string vest etc etc but it's a hot jacket to wear. This is great in the depths of winter of course, but is slightly problem for sweaty bettys such as myself in warmer months. I'd rather have a cold jacket and layer up underneath.

Normally I'm a big Endura fan - have bought loads of their stuff over the years and always look to them first, but this one isn't the jacket for me.

Ayesha wrote:"Do not carry fuel cans on board - full or empty." From P&O travel regulations.

Where did you find that particular 'Elf and Safety nugget - and does it actually refer to meths or is to do with petrol cans in cars? If you look on the P&O website FAQs you can find out what to do if you want to carry on board propane, butane, oxygen, firearms (presumably with ammunition) and so on. And of course if you think about it every vehicle on the car deck is a fuel container, and in that light a litre of meths strapped to a bicycle downtube is insignificant.

Back to airlines, if you google it camping stoves and fuel bottles seem to be okay as hold luggage as long as you jump through a few hoops first: clean them out, dry them off, double bag them with a certain type of knot to prevent the release of vapours.

I have Super Cs (with the grey C system hooks) a Cosmo rack and a 26-er touring bike and yes it's all solid, no problems with the clips.

Search the forum this comes up frequently. How do we request a sticky thread or "too good to lose"?

Interesting to compare the tone of the postings under "Spa diversify into saddles" with those listed under "Would you buy a Chinese Brooks clone" http://forum.ctc.org.uk/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=55888.

I use a Nokia DC14: donate the supplied dynamo to charity, chop the end off one of the wires, put a usb female connector on then away you go. This chap has done a website about it: http://toddlerontour.com/universal-usb-bicycle-charger-nokia-dc-14-conversion/ which gives you the idea. Have to say I crimped rather than soldered, and also I think you should join white and green together (D+/D-) for devices that like to know that they're connected to a charger not a computer.

...simplicity... wrote:For example something like this [British Eagle] really appeals to my vision of touring (doesn't state wheel size but just to give you an idea where my mind is at the moment) If I was to take this into my local bike shop, replace the wheels, tyres and chain, would this be suitable?

I would have thought it would be fine if it's 700c wheels, but you might end up sinking quite a bit of cash into it. You would probably want to replace the gearing throughout with much lower gearing, you may also have to get new shifters unless you're happy with the friction setting. Why replace the wheels and tyres - can't see if there's anything wrong with them from photos. Racks brakes etc fine I'm sure. It depends how much of a "project" you want - might be better to hold out for a Galaxy with a touring triple for example.

Wouldn't worry about the weight too much - I'm about 20kg heavier than you to start with and I would happily sit on any of the bikes you mention. I would advise you to get your touring mount whatever it is then start putting in some miles, that's how you find what needs adjusting, what needs replacing etc. Do some easy laden camping trips too - not for the miles but for the practice. I wouldn't want to arrive at some airport on a bike I'd never ridden fully laden, with loads of untested kit that I might not need, and a few things not packed that I could have done with.

You'll need to know how to remove the pedals and turn the handlebars for the aeroplane, anything else is a bonus. Personally I would also learn as a minimum how to adjust gears and brakes and how to replace inner cables and brake pads, and would pack spare inners and pads. If something goes wrong that you can't fix, hitch into the next town.

+1 for the N-gear Jumpstop for single chainring set ups. But if the chain is getting stuck as in the picture and your front mech is set correctly as you say, I don't think a jumpstop will do anything beyond what the inner derailleur plate already does. I wonder if it's the chain not settling down in the chainring teeth for a couple of revs, or maybe it's bouncing off from the underside of the chainring when you're not pedalling. You're back to modifying the width of the gap the chain wants to get stuck in, or getting a Stinger.

Nettled Shin wrote:For info, the outer plate of the front derailleur cage doesn't even come close to touching the chain when on the inner ring.

What about the inner plate, how much further outwards can you set it before it causes problems in bottom gear? Also has your chain got too many links in it?

+1 for large panniers - you don't have to fill them, and it's a pain if stuff only packs away in a certain order and only when tightly rolled. Re inner bags if you need them: dry bags are loads better than rubble sacks - I have one with a purge valve for my sleeping bag and one for the clothes I want guaranteed dry at the end of the day.

My set-up FWIW: well-known brand of British-made cotton duck panniers front and back, Alpkit Gourdon strapped to rack to carry tent poles, on-off-on-off clothes, end-of-day water, evening food etc, and to function as a day bag. Tiny bar bag because I don't like the effect on steering they have. Dry bags and rubble sacks as pannier liners.

Bit of thread necromancy here: have just seen http://www.drybum.co.uk. Haven't bought one but might be of interest to others...

Does anyone know where I can get a lightweight nurses' lock? I've got an Axa Defender but it weighs quite a bit so I don't use it. It's not for resisting attack it's just for convenience at cafe and corner shops etc. Also did there used to be locks that fitted to the canti bosses with a bar that flopped down into the spokes?

Please don't post about the D-lock I should be using and how my bike will get stolen by a gang with a hiab if I don't!


EDIT: Just found a cheapo Chinese one on ebay with a 7mm shank and a funny flat metal key - should be good enough for my Thorn RT. Check ebay first before posting on forums!