Cycling UK Forum

wearwell

gaz wrote:
wearwell wrote:...In which case I think CJ got it wrong...

CJ's maths in this thread: viewtopic.php?f=5&t=57410

Had a look, couldn't follow it, sounds wrong. Sheldon Brown has it right I think but his explanation is over complicated too.
I know I've got it right because I see and feel the result so if the maths says otherwise it must be wrong!

Actually the maths is simple geometry of a triangle. I'll do a sketch if I have time later.

PS at the risk of making it seem even more complicated - the graph of leverage against brake cable movement would produce an asymptotic graph vaguely like this below, with braking force going from infinity with a horizontal straddle wire to zero when vertical (ignore the y=1/x it's a sketch I lifted from the net)

wearwell

horizon wrote:AFAIR my '85 Galaxy had side pull brakes. I took it to hilly Spain fully loaded for a camping trip. I don't recall any braking issues so if cantilevers were meant to be an improvement I think we're on safe ground with them. Same with my 1991 Edge which has cantis (fully loaded, Spain, camping...).

The OP already has the brakes. Personally I wouldn't change them especially on a straight bar bike. When I overhauled the brakes (cantis) recently on my drop bar tourer, I took a bit more time over them. No issues.

I wouldn't start with them (I would go for V brakes) but that isn't the position the OP is in. I'm pretty sure that well maintained cantis are better than most of the brakes on most of the bikes generally in use by Joe Public.

My 2004 Galaxy has cantis and excellent braking (fully loaded camping Lejog etc) but as bgjim says a bit of a PITA to set up. It's a compromise between stopping power and lever movement - too much power might leave you with too much movement, with the levers hitting the bars too soon.

wearwell

Brucey wrote:if the arms are genuinely horizontal (i.e. cable mounting points are at the same height as the bosses) then the straddle height makes no difference to the MA whatsoever.

[BTW I used to think like you do, but CJ's nifty maths -amongst other things- put me straight.]

cheers

In which case I think CJ got it wrong. There is a huge difference in leverage between a horizontal straddle wire and (hypothetical)) vertical ones. Highest leverage at horizontal reducing to zero at (hypothetical) vertical all in line with cable mounting points and bosses.
I found this out by chance having got it the wrong way round with my brakes and having to work out why I seemed to have lost stopping power. I do know how to do it now!

wearwell

Brucey wrote:..
Cantis with horizontal arms are stuck with one MA value ...

Not so (assuming MA means leverage). You can alter the leverage by making the yoke cable more horizontal either by shortening it or by setting the brake shoes further in. Makes a big difference but more leverage means more movement of the brake lever so you could run out of movement if too far adjusted (or brake pads not up close enough).

wearwell

It is possible to over do it.

wearwell

Ed81 wrote:I would echo everything said so far.

1. It wasn't a failure; you got out on the bike, rode somewhere and camped.
2. You tested kit and learnt what worked and what didn't.
3. You are planning to do it again after some modifications.

My advice (built up from touring in the UK, Croatia and the Alps but also from mountaineering and hill walking) is to go as light as possible. For some tours I even go as far as cutting my toothbrush in half, not taking underwear for the evenings, not taking a second pare of shoes etc. As far as I am concerned this means that my tours are more enjoyable. Also have you thought about using panniers as opposed to a trailer. I tend to have to use both as I am often towing my daughter but I certainly notice that riding with panniers is far easier.

I also agree that it can take a few days to ride yourself in. How much riding do you do in general? If you could ride a little bit more maybe it would help........

I hope you learn from your experience and get back in the saddle soon.

Agree with all that - though I haven't cut a toothbrush in half yet! Hm, how may bristles do you really need on a toothbrush?
Summer riding you don't need much spare clothing - if you have to wash them do it just before you set off and you can put them on wet - a bit chilly at first but they dry very quickly as soon as you get moving.

wearwell

Vantage wrote:
theDaveB wrote:I don't live in the best of areas, so just presume every where isn't safe. No idea how I would cope with having to stop mid route and going into a shop to buy something, I would want to take my bike and trailer in with me!

Dave

This^^^
I'm same. My right rear pannier was apart from cooking gear, choc full of food so I wouldn't have to stop anywhere

It all adds up!
We only take a few bits n bobs for emergencies such as packet soups and other dry stuff which you can't buy in daily amounts, such as porridge oats and tea bags. Everything else bought on the day.

wearwell

Busy road - wear high viz top. Makes a big difference in my opinion. They slow down a touch and give you more space

wearwell

theDaveB wrote:The reason for the trailer is am 17.5 stone, so thought a trailer would be less weight on the bike. If I lost a stone, then that stone could be gear on the bike and I could lose the trailer. But until that happens I will keep the trailer.

The reason I wanted to keep the bike in the tent was more security than anything else. Not really done any camping with my bike and so wasn't sure if there would be any where to lock it up. I don't live in the best of areas, so just presume every where isn't safe. No idea how I would cope with having to stop mid route and going into a shop to buy something, I would want to take my bike and trailer in with me!

Dave

A good tourer like a Dawes Galaxy would be OK for 17 stone I think. I lost half a stone on our last trip. It helps to eat just normal quantities of food and not to kid yourself that you need to stoke up for energy, which we used to do on first outings. Porage for breakfast though, everyday, plus fruit.
Never had a prob with bike theft but we always lock two bikes together if there's nothing else to attach to. Had to cut a thick bike lock cable the other day - took about 15 minutes with a pair of small pliers and a lot of bending. Never bother with a heavy metal U lock - just too heavy and anyway they could steal everything else except the frame if they really wanted to.

wearwell

bigjim wrote:Pretty obvious. Weight! All that weight climbing hills in Wales. Your'e a hero. Weight like that is soul destroying. Why do you want to keep the bike in the tent? Trailers are just adding weight for no benefit IMO. You did make it by the way. Rode out, camped out. learned lots {I hope]. Job done.
I can tour for weeks at a time with just this setup. Plus I'm an old git that likes to sleep well.

I still moan on hills though.

Yep. Have another go.
Nice old bike - wot no mudguards? I carry similar amount plus two small front bags, one for tent the other for odds and ends (shopping; bots wine, patisseries, tins of cassoulet etc.)
That picture on your blog looks familiar - Nevers on the Loire? Was there only three weeks ago. Mind you one Loire bridge looks much like another!

wearwell

Not much point in keeping a tent in a dry bag - in most weathers it'll be damp with condensation when you pack it unless you wait for it to dry. If the weather is wet so will your tent be.
We just stuff ours into its own front pannier. I roll the poles up with the sleeping mat.

wearwell

We just came back from 3 weeks in France camping cycle touring. About 50 miles a day on average including some hills (Col de la Bataille 1313 metres about the same as Ben Nevis). Didn't walk up any of them! We getting on a bit (69 and 63). Each bike plus kit weighed about 30kg. Could have been lighter - lot of stuff we didn't use.
Mat and pillow important. For pillow I had a dry bag (with clothes in) which stayed inflated half the night.

wearwell

1 Too much kit.
2 Trailer.
3 Not enough time to get into it.

Days 2 to 3 can be the worst for a beginner with things only getting noticeably better towards the second week. Three weeks and you are flying!

wearwell

Have been using the Ortleib case for many years. No probs at all. If the insides or the map get damp you can ride with the case open and lifting the front edge inflates it enough to dry out the contents, but make sure the map is tucked in beyond the fold so that you don't lose it

wearwell

Very nice tent quick and easy to erect even in strong winds, but ours has lost all its seam tapes and all the tags which are glued on have dropped off. So it drips, though the material itself seems water tight.

It's had moderate use over 5 years and been stored dry but should have lasted longer I think. The rest of the tent is in perfect nick, just the glued bits come adrift.

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