Cycling UK Forum

I have just fitted some stainless clips with rubber/plastic sheath to my fixie from Ribble Cycles. 13mm to the rear stays and 16mm to the front but it all depends on the thickness of your stays. There is a big jump between the 13 and 16 size and could have done with an in between size. I have now ordered some PDW mudguards from Charlie the Bike Monger in 30mm size but there are larger ones. Really expensive but hope they are suitable as I cannot bring myself to ride without guards with all the rain. !0% discount to CTC members with CTC10 code at moment.

When seeking to continue to use screw on hubs I had several sachs maillard freewheels rebuilt with new sprockets but some became extremely rare virtually over night. The 14 ,15 and 16 as I recall being the ones most people would use most often and so wear out before the rest.
Mr Chris Bell of Highpath Engineering supplied me with several new sprockets and when I asked him how could I determine if a sprocket was worn as I recall he told me that the most reliable way was to try it and if the chain did not jump then it was ok.

With regard to the spacer I can recommend Jose at Paulus Quiros who build bespoke bikes and frames. They have a website and contact details and are now based near the marina in Swansea. I have imposed upon him on several occasions for minor work and Jose always makes the time to do help me and I have the added bonus of drooling over their bikes, part built frames etc as a bonus. I have always found that their charges are also reasonable. I have no connection with this company and am sure that there are similar establishments that can offer such a service. I would ensure that the headset has been fitted correctly first and why not have a machinist ensure the spacers ends are parallel and ensure there is some freeplay in the headset to prevent it binding if there is a slight tight spot.

Hi , With regard to the front brake calliper having an additional washer I have in the past added such a washer so that the calliper does not foul on the headset bottom cup. It really depends on the frame and forks and headset combination. You may also find that the front mudguard bracket even with bending may want to foul on the headset cup if you do not use this washer. I cannot really be more specific as I tend to add or leave out washers out as necessary when assembling a bike. You may also need a shorter or longer top hat recessed nut that holds the calliper in position. Also in some instances a washer may be necessary for the rear calliper.
With regard to the bar tape I find that if you use your bike in all weathers you cannot beat using a good quality electrical tape around the bars at bottom and top ends. This can be renewed at intervals. I always use a dark bar tape so it blends together reasonably well.

I would agree thats it about 1990 and as far as I aware with that bolt to mid hinge is a first generation Campag index. Hard to tel Campag models apart but if on removing the jockey wheels you find needle bearings then it's a Record, Chorus and below would have plain bushes and any jockey wheel should fit width wise, providing the bolt through the bush is the same diameter. There are or used to be alloy replacement jockey wheels available running on a small roller bearing if my memory serves me correctly.

As I understand it's law to have the brake on the left because if you are turning right you need to be able to hold out your right hand as a signal.
In Countries that drive on the right then you need to be able to use the back brake with your right hand and hold out your left hand to signal when turning left.

200k Audax including all stops and the hills that such events usually have in under 8 hours is a pretty good indication that you are a powerful rider and asking to much from 32 spokes. The rims as suggested may also not be the best choice under the conditions you use the wheels for.
Many moons ago I had a set of 32 spoke mavic rims built for my son and the same in 36 spoke for myself. After he had the same problems as your self with the 32 spoke wheels I swapped my 36 spoke wheels with him and no more problems for him and the 32 spoke wheels where fine for me being smaller and weaker than him.
I assume its the rear wheel that is giving the problem as the front should be ok with less weight and not being the driving wheel and shorter spokes due to dynamo hub.
I bought a Galaxy about 16 years ago and despite having 36 spokes I would find broken ones at the hub very frequently. The more I had replaced the worse it got until I was never using the bike. A rebuild with a new rim and spokes sorted that problem. I think that once it becomes a frequent problem the strain on the rim and spokes just seems to go around in circles and the unreliability issue curtails your enjoyment.

I am so impressed by the ability of individuals that undertake such projects . Good on you as the world would be so boring without people like yourself and I look forward to more information and pictures of your project. It is so over my head with regard to the skills, ability and knowledge needed that I am truly envious.

A friend as a Shand which is a 26 inch wheel bike built for long distance rough road touring. The bike just reeks quality and even though its not my style of bike I find it draws you to admire it. They seem to build all types of bikes.
Nearer home for me and now based in Swansea marina is Paulius Quirios (hope that's spelt right). Jose and his business partner really build some outstanding frames. Unfortunately I only can afford to have Jose carry out minor jobs for me such as headset fitting, bottom backet housing reaming etc.
Personally I would be disappointed to find that the Company I decide to have my custom built frame from actually sends my measurements abroad for it to be built there. My off the peg Thorn is such a frame but at least there was no pretence about where it was made.
This is not in anyway suggesting that any such frames are inferior but as a Welshman I still have pride in the made in England sticker on my Dawes Galaxy.
I also would have a lugged frame even though modern steels are equally as strong when welded. There is to me something about a lugged frame that makes it stand out. (the lugs maybe)
Choosing the lugs and tubing which has got to be Reynolds would be a real treat.
I recently saw a Bob Jackson fixie and that again was a lugged frame and the construction and paint finish was outstanding.
Go on spoil yourself and keep us posted of progress so at least for one of us the dream becomes a reality.

Many thanks for your input Tonyf33. Lots of useful tips and I will probably give it a go soon. I also agree with you that the bike should not have been resting on the chainring but it's out of your hands when receiving goods. Otherwise the bike frame was well wrapped and protected but I did feel that placing the wheels alongside the rear triangle and front forks even though the where turned sideways is far from ideal. The smaller separate boxes is an excellent idea. Thanks Again.

I have only today had a used bike delivered with Parcelforce.
Despite the bike having been well packed in a large used bike box Parcelforce managed to drop it sufficiently hard for the large chainring to penetrate through the bottom of the double cardboard of the box , bending the chainring with the impact and then wear the teeth away by dragging it along the floor.
I do not intend using this chainset but it is a nice polished one that has survived 34 years without a mark until now. and would have been good for someone doing a retro build.
I have bought 4 used bikes and apart from one having the handlebar sticking out from the box and a damaged hand grip rubber as a result none have damage to this extent.
As I would like to sell a bike( or 2 or 3) I would like to know if anyone knows of a reputable Company that can deliver bikes without damage.
I do find that when buying a bike to have collection only limits my choice and likewise when selling it limits the number of buyers.

I have only just discovered with fitting a Spa Cycles triple onto my aluminium audax road bike that a mountain bike front mech does not come in enough to allow the chain to drop onto the inner chainring. I have now fitted a road 105 triple front mech and this does the job fine. Perhaps the fitting of a wider bottom bracket to push the rings further away from the frame may have worked. As I am using a friction only lever I do not have any indexing problems. You would have to look into that yourself. The chainline on a road frame is narrower than mtb's so the front mechs are different to cater for this.

With regard to bikes with narrow bosses I have a set of mini v tektro that did not fit and if they fitted with much narrower rims then their height would be unlikely to clear the mudguards on a tourer.
I then fitted Tektro CP720's with blocks as close to arm as possible. I tried to fit road blocks but failed . The braking was very poor so I removed them and bought a better quality Shimano set of low profile cantis from the 90's on Ebay.
I have been tempted to buy a set of Suntour XC and SE with the rear being self energising from St. John Cycles. but as My mid 90's Galaxy rarely gets used it seems a bit of unnecessary expense.

Thanks Cycleruk for your reply. Basically it seems that its a non starter.
From what I can now glean a Campag 8 speed pulls 3.5mm of cable per click and the rear derailleur has a ratio of 1 to 1.4 which results in the derailleur moving 5mm which is the sprocket centre to centre spacing. shimano road derailleur is 1 to 1.7 ratio which is closer to 6mm (3.5 x 1.7) and a shimano mtb derailleur has a 1 to 2 ratio which would result in a 7mm of movement per click of the campag shifter.
Should have done some research before posting my query.
Thanks anyway for your contribution anyway it certainly helped.

Has anyone any knowledge if it is possible to use campag 8 speed levers with a shimano mtb rear derailleur. My wheel has a sachs maillard 8 speed freewheel spaced for campag but I could respace for shimano. I am aware that moving the pivot point of the cable fixing onto the derailleur alters the amount of pull.
Alternatively perhaps a shimano long cage derailleur is possible but must be 8 not 9 speed.
Any information based on actual experience would be appreciated.