Cycling UK Forum

Are we talking about a modern Raleigh Royale or a older bike from before 2000? The spacing of the cantilever bosses on an older model are likely to be to close together to change to mini v brakes or modern cantis. Sorry if I have missed the age of the bike somewhere in the query.

I have been down this road with my 1996 Dawes Galaxy as the original low profile cantilevers of no name origin seemed to let the post on the brake block move after a few spins. I used the tektro 720 cantilever for a while but the stopping power was poor and I had to fit road brake blocks to get them to even fit.
Tectro V short arm brakes also need the bosses wider and anyway they would not clear the mudguard.

I bought some used Shimano stx on ebay which I have been using for some time with coolstop salmon blocks. The rear brake is up to it's old trick horrific squealing again and I am contemplating a set of Suntour with the self energising rear set from ST John Cycles. These are old stock so should be of the same era as my bike.
I have asked the question on their websit with regard to mounting post centres and await their reply. These should also have new spring tension albeit 20 yr old springs and should be ok with your single hole backplate.

I have considered to have the bosses altered but as this would involve a repaint it's not an option. I will follow you post with interest as I am sure others will have sound suggestions. Reading your post again you do not seem to have a problem with the spacing of the posts on older bikes being closer together than newer bikes so excuse a lot of my waffle but I hesitate to delete it as it may be of use to you.

Rohloff with Rigida CSS with blue Swisstop pads will be a fantastic combination. I have a 40/17 gear combination with 26 inch wheels. This means I do most of my cycling in the 11th gear which is the most efficient gear and it gives me a very usable spread of gears either side, it all depends on you physical ability what gear you settle on. I have Spa Cycles XG2 cranks albeit with a St John cycles chain ring but when it wears out I will have no hesitation in fitting a Spa cycles chain ring. This crankset gave me the chance to go for 165 cranks which I find is better for me in old age and with the cheaper chainrings and chain tensioner you will be able to tailor the gearing to your needs should you get the gearing wrong in the first instance.
I also believe that if you have an uneven ratio of teeth between the front and rear cogs then they last longer.

I also ride with a friend of similar age and ability (old) with a similar bike who has a 16/44 combination and he recons that's perfect for his needs so all advice should be taken with a pinch of salt.

You will not regret the purchase of a Rohloff, and the chances are that it's resale value, should you wish to part with it, will be considerably more than any other gear system

Thanks all for you input. Brucey's information with regard to insertion depth confirmed my concern and iandriver's Hope chart link was enlightening.
Looks like I will have to have to have my new headset insertion depths reduced when I get them. I have now stripped the cups off the frame and the frame insertion depth is approx 7mm, it then taperes in at an angle. Some of the diagrams of the new cups seem to show a chamfer but it really needs a proper cross section to judge correctly. The integrated Cane Creek headset I removed had an insertion deptht of 8mm but due to it being rounded over only 4.5mm of that was actually holding the cup in the head tube.

Update-The conversion is now done with Hope mix and match headset. Machined 2mm from insertion depth of bottom cup. The top cup was shallower to begin with but still needed a chamfer to reduce it's fitting depth but enabling the integrity of the bearing cup to be retained.
Thanks everyone

Laid back seat posts are available which can be fitted without to much bother and disruption to your bike. I also have fitted some very curvy climbing pegs that came off a bicycle at the tip and I have bar tape around them ,this gives a similar curve to the Ergon GP5. Even so I still find a drop bar bicycle work better for me over distances.
The moving back of the seat does sound like sound advice and I am now going to price a laid back post. Expensive game this cycling

I have an aluminium Giant XTC mountain bike of approx 2006 year. It has forks with 100mm of travel and 1 1/8 steerer and has a low stack headset which appears to have a fitting diameter of 44mm to the frame, the depth of the fitting recess is not known to me.
I would like to fit a tapered steerer fork with a 1.5 inch bottom bearing which I understand can be done with an external type bearing. This would raise the front end by approx 15mm which does not really bother me.
Is my assumption that it is possible correct? and can you recommend a reasonably priced headset and also some advice on forks. Chain Reaction seem to have plenty of clearance items. I have a good quality 9mm QR wheel but could buy a similar one for a 15mm axle one if need be .
Any information would be gratefully received.

St John Cycles have Dia Comp Dc988 and others that probably will work with your galaxy. best to ask them before ordering.

I also have one, bought about 5 years ago as my ride to work bike. you need a longer recessed nut for the front brake and deeper drop brakes as the frame is built for mudguards. Shimano RX100 I think I have. I also use the bike for Audax type rides. As a steel man I am reluctant to admit that I find the ride very comfortable.
I use a 34/44 double with a 12/28 rear and can get everywhere I need. I find the common 34/48 combination has to large gear gap.
I bought the 54 size instead of the 51 as the top bar is dropped down from the seat tube but as it's level it makes for a short steering tube and without the larger frame the handlebars would have been to low for me, a 8cm stem instead of my usual 10cm catered for the top bar being slightly longer than my size.
The million dollar question is however-What is the safe life span of Carbon and Aluminium.

Thanks for your really helpful response dakari-mane and I agree with the limitations on load height with overhead steering also without a bracing top bar any sag in the platform under load would result in bump steer.
I do like the bottom picture of the frame only, slightly over built for me as I do not envisage such heavy loads as this could take, but the principle is spot on.
I will have to hone my skills as at present something more agricultural looking will result.
Thanks again.

What a superb piece of engineering,if it was mine I would not be able to part with it.

The idea of building a cargo bike has been something that I have considered for some time and now that time has come.
Has anyone got any tips/details that they would be prepared to share.
I am considering a 3 ft long by 2 ft wide platform with 26 inch wheels front and back. A tube at high level between the 2 head tubes as a brace and the steering rod alongside on short arms onto the handlebar stems
I have 3 frames which gives me basics and also some tube for the platform etc.
Any constructive ideas would be appreciated and possible photos.

Thanks everyone for the information.
I do like the Xenon long cage option and there seems to be plenty around at a reasonable cost.
I have been down the road of moving cable fulcrum point with long adjuster, putting cable on other side of bolt in the past. Highpath engineering has a good article on this on web, it does work but not if lever cable pull is vastly different to derailler.
Thanks again.

I am looking for information with regard to deraillers etc.
My ride to work bike has Stronglight escape double chainset with 34/44 rings and a Campag indexed 8 speed short cage rear mech with campag 8 speed levers. The rear screw on block is spaced for campag but I do have spacers to return it to shimano if need be.
I intend fitting a triple with 28/38/48 teeth.
I would like to put a long cage derailler on the rear and shimano seems to be the only option. As it,s a drop handlebar bike I would like to use my ergo levers if possible or I have some campag 8 speed down tube levers.
Alternatively do Shimano down tube or bar end 8 speed levers work with long cage shimano deraillers which presumably are designed for mtb flat bar type levers.
Any information would be appreciated.
Just remembered that my galaxy which I am selling has this setup of bar ends and long cage stx but seems a pity to rob it of it's components.

Thanks all for your advice, certainly plenty of information on the options been given freely.
I sort of favour the Tura with it's curved blades.
Has anyone any idea of the Tura's weight as I may as well stick with my present setup if there no reduced weight advantage.
The suggestion of another bike is also appreciated and does make a lot of sense.
Thanks again.

Thanks will have a look at their website.