Cycling UK Forum

hughgabriel wrote:Thank you. Just had a look at your blog and the post on wheel bearings caught my eye. I have ordered bearings that are a direct replacement for the ones removed which are NSK 629D which are 26mmOD, 9mmID not 26mmOD, 10mmID as the ones you have used. Maybe the spindle on my front wheel has been replaced with a 9mm shaft?

My mistake. I should correct that entry - front and rear wheels have different diameter axles. I had only been working on a rear wheel. Although I can't see why the same axle couldn't be used on both, provided the fatter axle would fit the front drop outs. Hmmm.

hughgabriel wrote:

• Is this likely to have a cassette or a freewheel block?
• Do the Viscount/Trusty stickers steam off so they can be reused? If not is there a known method of removal?
• Is the BB easily removable and reusable, if not is the BB tube the correct length & diameter to get a machine shop to cut a BSA thread into it?
• Does the saddle look original, or shall I swap it over for a Brooks?
• And probably most ambitiously, does anyone know the paint code for this paint!

• This bike would have had a five-speed freewheel block.
• I've never tried this. The stickers (rather than the transfers/decals) might. Some NOS and copies of the transfers are available, but not (AFAIK) for the stickers. There are companies that can make replica stickers to order and at least one forum member has done this.
• It all depends on what you mean by 'easily'. It is quite possible to change the bearings (which are standard industrial types) and the spindle. I have done it several times - see my blog about this http://www.viscount-lambert-bikes.blogspot.co.uk/ But the exercise can involve a lot of brute force; unless you have access to a special tool that does the job (a couple of forum members have these). There is not enough metal for a BSA thread (the outside diameter of the cartridge bearings is 35mm), but an Italian thread can be put in. Or use a 'threadless' bottom bracket assembly, although this is likely to require the ends of the tubes inside the BB shell to be machined back to clear the BB unit.
• Some Viscounts had a Middlemore leather saddle, some of which were Viscount-branded. Others had fairly basic leather or plastic covered plastic saddles (I think yours is one of these?) but, back in the day as now, people would fit whatever they were happiest with. No-one is going to complain about lack of authenticity if you fit a Brooks.
• It is believed that Viscount used standard colours - either RAL or from some other standard - but only one or two names or numbers are known not, AFAIK, your colour. But perhaps someone else knows or has your colour bike and has found a good match?

Hope this helps.

Theses appear to be French levers (not surprising perhaps, on a Peugeot) of the type called 'guidonnet'. The ones in the picture are probably old, but see here for some new Dia Compe ones http://store.velo-orange.com/index.php/br-0024.html

Edit: just seen these on eBay, they appear very similar to the ones on the bike. If not identical:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Vintage-guidonnet-brake-levers-with-adjuster-barrels-used-/161331212817?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item259016f211

StellaLdn. wrote: ... but I doubt the lugged Grand Touring was fitted with that.

Looks like a fillet brazed frame to me Stella.

Sooper8

I like the idea of 'posing up some pictures'. Something us Viscount owners do well?

John

A Viscount?
Although likely to be Dura Ace, not Campagnolo, originally. See:
http://forum.ctc.org.uk/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=21010&start=2550
and http://viscountandlambert.boards.net/thread/299/aerospace-pro-clean-drivetrain-pics

For what it's worth, the 'JJ' is Shimano's date code for the component. In this case 2011 (first J), October (10th month = 10th letter!). The current system started in 1976 (but may have existed before that) with year 'A' = 1976. So the first year J was 1985, but we have now gone right around the alphabet and J was re-used twenty-six years later in 2011. All year letters are used - i.e. including I and O.

The good news is I didn't break the tool. The bad news is I couldn't shift the block and its notches got destroyed. So I'm stuck with the Regina freewheel unless I decide to cut it off.

Tried to fit an original Lambert 5 speed block to the gold bike today. It has a Regina one at present. Someone on the CTC forum kindly gave me the right tool (saga on another thread). Tool survived the attempt but the notches on the block got graunched up. So stuck with the Regina for next week.
I've been working on an Aerospace bike as well - fitted a five speed skip tooth block - largest cog 17T - equivalent to 34T, the largest I have on any bike. Also fitted bar end shifters.

Hi Ian. The tools you sent arrived today. Many thanks. I hope I'll have time to use them this weekend.

samsbike wrote:I have 9 speed and I like it. I also like the ability to trim the front mech. However my dt on the winter bike is 31.8 which rules out old style fitments.

31.8 band here: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Via-Components-down-tube-shifters-mounts-for-downtubes-28-6mm-or-31-8mm-/181436813768?pt=UK_sportsleisure_cycling_bikeparts_SR&hash=item2a3e7a11c8

Just need to select your 9-speed indexing shifters then.

For instance: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Sunrace-9-Speed-Braze-on-Down-tube-Gear-Levers-SLR-91-/121360508230?pt=UK_sportsleisure_cycling_bikeparts_SR&hash=item1c41a66546

A quick 'thanks' - I'm on my way to a meeting. The SunTour tool I have looks the same as IanW's one, including the engraving, although on my (analogue) vernier calliper the prongs measure 6.7mm. Their outside diameter is 25mm.
Very sound advice, which I will bear in mind. IanW, I will PM about your very kind offer.

Why do I want to remove this block? It's on an old, very original Lambert '24 carat gold' plated 'Professional' bike and I have just acquired an original Lambert block. So, in the interests of authenticity, the Regina has to go.

Does the two prong tool for old SunTour blocks fit? I have a SunTour tool and the prongs seem just too large for the Regina freewheel. Should I try to force them in, file to fit or look to buy another tool? (I've tried a centre punch and large hammer - it doesn't shift.)
Thanks.

Thanks for your help. I've bought a pair of the Areos spotted by Brian 73. They seem well made and good value, but I am a bit concerned that the hooks are plastic. My wife likes the look of them and wants a pair for her bike.

The Uniglide freehub system was introduced before indexing came in - UG freehubs were part of (for instance) the 600ex gruppo, with friction shifters. In my experience, HG freehubs can be operated quite happily by friction shifters - I've never used anything else.