Cycling UK Forum

I think possibly it may also have something to do with the switch on the front light which has on/off/senso positions. I generally leave it in the 'on' position but the detents are a little vague. Frequently, when parking up at work, some 'good samaritan' will advise me 'here mate, you've left your lights on' - both fore and aft lights have standlight facility. I'm thinking somebody has tried to do me a favour by turning the lights off, changing the position of the front light switch to 'senso', and rummaging around the back light for a non existrant switch and slightly dislodging the cable perhaps.

I'll do an experiment tonight when it's dark, and quite possibly I'll find I've wasted mine, and some others time!! Hopefully everything may be OK once the switch is back in the correct position and the wires are all secured. I hope so as this light is no longer for sale and it has performed impeccably for so long - even the rarely used USB charging has been useful. Wait and see.

Spring is just around the corner and I'd like to get the Raleigh Record Ace prepared for some light commuting and general sunny riding. i.e no rack or mudguards.

I enjoy riding this bike in fixed gear mode (48 x 19) & I have become fixated with getting the weight below 20 lbs (incl pedals) at reasonable expense. I am not a racer or a sprinter, just a high-ish middle aged geezer who enjoys a traditional lightweight bike.

To achieve sub 20 lbs I would need to change the wheelset. Currently it has 36h Mavic Open Sport rims on King Kong 219 R & F hubs with ACI stainless double butted spokes. Cheap & functional.

I'm looking to build a wheelset with 32h Ryde Pulse Sprint rims paired with Dia-Compe Gran Compe Small Flange hubs. Theoretically exactly 1500 grammes without rimtape or sprocket. These would cost around £200. Anyone care to comment on whether this wheelset would be 'any good', particularly any experience with the rims. I would be running a front caliper brake only but would use this sparingly, concentrating more on slowing down through the pedals.

Here's a couple of quick images:



Not the clearest of images but basically twin wires from the hub connection block to the front light, and twin wires from the front light to the rear. No single wires. One of the wires is black/white and one is solely black. The wire that came dislodged this a.m. was actually the solely black one which I think is the +ve, not 'earth' as suggested upthread.

Anyhow, I'll try it again tonight when dark, cheers.

rjb wrote: ↑12 Feb 2024, 8:40am Check all your connections.....

That may be the answer. I just swapped a couple of bungee straps from the rear rack of that bike to the tandem, and dislodged the 'earth' cable to the rear dynamo light - it seemed to become dislodged very easily as if the spade terminal was not pushed fully home. Anyhow, after pushing the cable back into the rear light firmly and spinning the front wheel........the front light came back on with seemed full gusto!! I will have to check it properly when it's dark.

I wouldn't have thought a rear cable becoming loose would affect the front light...?

Yes, I think you're right, on closer inspection I reckon a couple of the LED's have gone 'puff'. I'll have to wait until later for a more comprehensive test.

Quick question for any electronics buffs:

I have a Shimano Alfine dynohub (+5 year old, cheap. ex Decathlon) running a front AXA Nano 50 plus led light (+5 year old.). Both used extensively without problem - I've had my money's worth.

On a dark, early start morning the light usually flickers to life after a couple of wheel revolutions, however over the last week it now takes at least 4 revolutions of the wheel for the light to flicker into life. Once awake, the light functions well, although it may possibly be a bit dimmer than previously. The connecting block between cable and hub is in good condition and wires are clean, shiny and lightly coated in vaseline,

What is deterioating, the light or the hub? I think it's probably the light, but couldn't answer an exam type question as to why!

L+1 wrote: ↑4 Feb 2024, 2:54pm I’ve only got one experience of trying on ladies clothing -

And are you of the female species......or possibly a lumberjack!

https://youtu.be/FshU58nI0Ts

You should focus on the glass being half full.

If you'd have bought the cycling kit from a less salubrious retailer than Jaffa, let's say 'Gone bust bicycle farts' then you may have discovered worse, a fresh skid mark, or even a colony of these:


Probably better off not being too squeamish, and accepting that a couple of stray pubes and some dandruff are not really life threatening.

Hope you find some suitably fresh & sanitary kit in the not too distant future, all the best!

That's quite neat and compact.

I had visions of an old bicycle wheel with small wind scoops attached at the spoke holes, bolted to the top of a post or somesuch!!

Pebble wrote: ↑21 Jan 2024, 8:58pm electric been off and then back on twice in the last hour

home made wind measuring device (incorporating a bike computer) .........

It would be interesting to see a photo of your shedgineering anemometer!

A quick search on eBay:


I doubt they are stainless but a light smear of vaseline should see them last.

SimonCelsa wrote: ↑26 Nov 2023, 5:36pm I went out early this morning (before 6 a.m) on a 50 mile blast at temperatures between freezing and minus 2.

My Garmin Edge 130 (bought last year 2nd hand) lasted about 2.5 hours from fully charged . During the summer I was regularly getting 4 - 5 hours with a couple of bars left.

I've just ordered a new LIPO battery off eBay (300mAh as opposed to the original 180mAh), and some cheap mobile phone repair tools and will try and replace the battery myself. I don't really need a Garmin for local routes as I know most of the roads up here in the Highlands (there's not really that many) but it sometimes comes in handy so will try and get it back to full vigour if practical.

Installed the new battery last Sunday, gave it a good test run today. Garmin on for over 10 hours, without any low battery indications so for the princely sum of about a tenner I now have an 'as new' Edge 130 with an increased capacity battery. What would we do without youTube instructional videos!!

Wasn't that difficult, the tiny wires are a little bit fiddly, and was pleasantly surprised when it actually worked after I'd finished reassembling. Jobs a winner, just hoping the araldite 'globules' I used to insulate the wire connections are sufficiently thick.

Put the bearing in the freezer for a couple of hours. This may reduce its size (ever so slightly) and assist with sliding it back in.

To maintain a higher annual mileage by bicycle over car, this year about 5300' vs 3000' so all good.

To get the fair weather fixed gear Raleigh Record Ace below 20lbs / 9kg. I've swapped the Brooks for a Charge Spoon but will probably also need a lighter set of wheels.


Not really asking a lot but I'm easily pleased!

It's all about perception.

2 grand for that Vitus e-bike is not cheap. When compared with the supposed RRP of £3700 it may seem like a bargain but I don't think many (if any) would buy that bike at RRP.

You can purchase a decent conversion kit (hub or BB) plus battery for around £700, With a budget of £2K there are many decent bikes you could buy, and fit the conversion kit to and still have change.

I see Tesco selling some ordinary Colgate toothpaste at times for £4, this allows them to subsequently sell it at 'Half Price' a few weeks later; "only £2, wow!!" Everyone loves a bargain and these strategies obviously work and help shift stock.

Having said that, as long as you are happy with the purchase, and get good use from it, is all that matters really!!