Cycling UK Forum

Your dust cap is the wrong way around. You can fit it the right way around, then install your cassette. The lockring will push it in almost as far as it needs to go. Then remove the lock ring and tap the dust shield in a nadge more with a socket, just enough that it doesn't rub on the lock ring when re-installed. This should give you clearance so that it isn't contacting the bearings or the lock ring.

Here is the tech doc for that headset to check assembly. If the upper cup seal is binding on the bearing cover you can get shims to create just a little more space to stop it happening. On my orbit mx headsets the two seals are popped into the upper and lower cups at quite a firm fit with the cartridge bearings already in place inside the cups.

It is possible, I guess, that the number of spacers could be contributing to uneven preload. You could try fewer, higher stack spacers of good quality. Also check that the crown race is fitted evenly and fully to the new fork. You could also try fitting the stem with just one spacer underneath it and then a big stack on top, just to see if there are any changes. Can you see any uneven gaps at any point on the headset? Check that any dust seals/shields are in correct orientation and are not getting pinched (especially at the crown race to lower bearing interface). You could try temporarily removing them (not the rubber seals of the actual cartridge bearings) to see if they are binding. Some up close photos might help somebody to spot something.

It sounds a bit to me like you might be better off selling that bike and buying a more expensive one.

If you use v-brake levers at standard cable pull you will have a brake that engages quickly (less lever movement before the pads hit the rim), a stiffer/more wooden feel as the pads apply pressure to the rim, and reduced power compared to cantilever/road flat bar brake levers used with your calipers.

Service is pretty fiddly, involving lots of tiny ball bearings (1/8") needing to stick in place while you re-assemble. Unless it feels like it actually needs it I would not open it up.

You could always remove it from the hub, (usually a 10mm Allen key anti clockwise from the front for a standard qr Shimano), take the seal at the back out and flush it through/re-lube suitably (can make it quite gritty for a while). Don't use lube that can gunk up if you're sending it through as far as the pawls, as it can interfere with the pawls' engagement with the ratchet and slipping/internal damage can result.

If you do want to open it up you can get a slotted tool to fit the cup race for cheap from Ali Express, or for a bit more from eBay. Shimano stopped selling their own tool years ago. You can remove shims from under the cup race if you have excessive movement/play in the freehub body. It's best to dismantle it still mounted on the hub.

You need brake levers designed for cantilever brakes to work well with dual pivot calipers. I like the style of that bike, by the way. If your wife doesn't get on with down tube shifters and you could get hold of some old 7 speed Shimano thumb shifters, they tend to have a 'hidden' click and are close enough in ratio to work well as 8 speed. You would, of course need to fit cable stops on the existing lever mounts. Shimano SM-CS50 would be ideal.

bungle73 wrote: ↑6 Jul 2024, 9:08pm Tried to modify it and it still won't fit!!!!!!!!!!!! Why is there more than one size????? How is anybody supposed to know and which one they need???????????????????????? I already had a mirror that was fine, but when I tried to take it off to use on another bike it disintegrated so I had to buy a new one!

[Moderator note - post edited for breaching the Forum Guidelines.]

There is no standard for internal diameter of bars like there is for external diameter, because there is no standard for material and wall thickness. Plugs need to accommodate a range of diameters, but they can't span a huge range. Cheapo aluminum bars will tend to have thicker walls to make up for the inferior heat treat so will have smaller diameter, same for old school heavy bars for downhill mtb. Better quality/lighter ones made from steel, aluminum or titanium will be thinner walled and therefore bigger internal diameter, carbon can vary too. The same is true for road bars, although as the external diameter is larger the internal diameter tends to be a bit larger too, but again, none of it is standardized.

I think that building the wheel with a half worn replacement rim adds another layer of potential difficulty. Is the replacement rim true completely bare laying on a flat surface? Did you tape the replacement rim to the old one without flipping so that the spokes end up in all of the same holes? I would say that's your best bet. Good luck!

That's external size, 2 common standards for diameter of the grip area of flat/road bars. Internal can vary as handlebar wall thickness varies by material/quality. It is a bit strange though that one side fits fine while the other doesn't, is the bolt/wedge in the expander plug fully released/retracted in the side that won't go in to make the plug as slender as possible? Maybe some photos would help.

Edit - ah, I see they are for 2 different bikes. If the internal diameter of the second bar is too small you'll either have to get a bar with a larger internal diameter, modify the plug, buy a mirror with narrower plug or buy a mirror that clamps around the outside of the bar rather than inside.

FSA orbit is a nice headset. For the stem you'd have greater choice with a 1 1/8" stem with a shim for the steerer.

Are those Ridenow tubes? I've been using these for some 37mm tyres for a few weeks, and some thinkrider with 25mm tyres for about half a year. The narrower ones were quite tricky to fit without pinching, even with a little air in them. The Ridenow much less so. The Ridenow came with reinforcement stickers to apply around the valves.

So far I have been lucky with mine. Objectively the rotating weight saving is relatively large, equivalent to more expensive lightweight tyres so in the absence of problems it's been worth it for me.

I also like the fact that a spare takes up very little space/weight. The expensive brands available in UK eg Tubulitos may have better QC so may be less likely to have problems, but I wouldn't consider the weight saving as worth it for the price of them.

Does anybody have recent experience of flying with a Brompton? I'm going to Ireland in a couple of weeks, hoping to take a Brompton to get around. Manchester to Dublin with Ryanair. Does it get charged as a cycle or sporting goods if packed into a bag, did you're survive intact, any other tips or useful info? Thank you in advance.

That is one expensive water bottle! I would agree that silicone grease is your best bet.

gaz wrote: ↑23 Jun 2024, 8:23pm Untitled.png
Wear indicator, when the whole appears you need a new bike .

Oh yes! I didn't realize that it's actually indicated on the label. It is on mine too, I just never noticed.

In reply to the question about the age of the wheels, they are probably at least 15 years old, I got them as a spare set of wheels with an old 90s Dawes galaxy I bought on eBay years ago. They have Cannondale hubs with cartridge bearings . Never got around to using them until a couple of years ago.

I had a couple of A319 in store as replacement and you are quite right, they don't have these indicators. A bit of a shame as they were a very neat and unobtrusive solution. I really don't like the painted channel that runs right around the braking surface of many other rims.