Cycling UK Forum

Found a hole in my Mavic A319 rim, to my surprise it's actually a wear indicator, but internal only, no divot or channel in the outer rim surface. Quite neat! No sign or mark until the rim is ready for replacement The front rim is not quite there yet: I remember that I got a real shock once checking somebody's bike over and their rim had a gap the whole way around that you could stick a screwdriver in, due to the design of wear indicators on Rigida rims.

rjb wrote: ↑22 Jun 2024, 1:26pm Nice to see the anticlockwise arrow as a reminder that it's a left hand thread. Precession will tighten it further in use. To get a decent grip at those torques requires the proper tool to fit it, our you risk the spanner slipping and skinning your knuckles. I generally use the Sheldon method with a big nut and bolt and suitable socket and a 1/2" drive with an extension through the bottom bracket and a Tommy bar or ratchet drive.

Yes I have a retaining tool (aka glorified bolt with thick washer). The installation tool itself is aluminum, I definitely won't be trying this torque without it bolted firmly in place!

I'm just posting this for interest. Surprisingly high installation torque spec for this campagnolo bottom bracket! Searching around a bit quite a lot of campagnolo BB cups are this spec. Seems quite high to me!

To the OP, I've not used the Ruffy Tuffy tyres sold by Planet X,
https://www.planetx.co.uk/products/ruff ... protection
but they are a more puncture resistant version of the jack brown Mile munchers (made by Panaracer) which I use on my road bike and find pretty good.

Edit. Just seen these are currently out of stock. Like most stuff from PX, who knows whether they will get it back in.

simonhill wrote: ↑17 Jun 2024, 1:32pm

plancashire wrote: ↑17 Jun 2024, 11:54am I use Marathon Supreme, which I see Spa still have. I'm happy with them for road and dry gravel. I gave up on Schwalbe inners after multiple failures not caused by punctures. I don't have Conti experience in touring tyres.

Very limited options in Supremes now. They haven't been made for a few years. Sadly I've given up on them as difficult to get in my size and extortionately expensive.

That's a shame, after Vittoria Voyager Hypers went out of production, Supremes, although heavier, were the next best thing that I'd found. Have you found anything similar as replacement? I've had a few pairs of Panaracer Paselas which I like but haven't found them to wear particularly well.

scottg wrote: ↑14 Jun 2024, 11:13pm A picture is worth 50 posts.

s640.jpg

Indeed, especially pictures of the OP's setup, although this is helpful too.

You can use 1" threadless headset steerer spacers to make up for the shorter head tube, but if you want your stem lower than on your current bike or if you don't like the look of a stack of spacers under the threaded headset locknut then yes you may well have to get your fork steerer thread extended in addition to the steerer cut shorter. Many bike workshops won't have the equipment to do this these days, I'd probably take the fork (and frame that it's going in) to a steel frame builder to get it done, or at least to an old school bike shop.

Bice wrote: ↑17 Jun 2024, 11:38am It was suggested by others in the group that the issue may have been cured by pumping the brake lever a bit, which was not tried. No fluid was added by the mechanic, apparently, but some new brake pads were (which were unlikely to be related to the problem).

The consensus seems to be some air got into the system. How it was released is more of a mystery. I was informed that hydraulic disc bikes don't like being on their side, or turned upside down, which might be true but also seems utterly pathetic.

There was presumably some air in the lever reservoir, which there shouldn't really be, so it was a pre existing problem which just didn't manifest until the air migrated into the hose. Probably when the mechanic retracted the pistons to install the new pads it pushed the air out of the lines and back into the reservoir. Anybody who knows a bit about hydros should have tried retracting the pistons with the bike upright to try to achieve the same thing without having to replace the pads. The pistons would need to advance again to adjust for the wear on the existing pads, but with the bike upright any fluid in the reservoir would get drawn into the lines before any air present. It's not too big a deal, just a brake not set up properly to have little to no air under the membrane of the reservoir. Just like any other component that isn't set up to work properly.

Or you can save a picture from the product listing and post that, but as it is that description is too vague

What is the bike you have and what is the bike you're thinking of getting? Is your current bike 1 1/8" steerer fork or 1"? And do you know if the eBay bike is 1" or 1 1/8"? Are the frames the same size? Photos or links to both would be helpful, especially head tube. Of course you will have to use your current fork with the new frame if you want to keep your current headset.

That can't be easily answered without clear photos of your brakes and how much room for pad height adjustment there is available.

I'd post this to the touring section not the bikes and bits technical.

I just don't really get the reasoning for going to the trouble and expense of replacing a suspension fork for a rigid on an e-bike, especially for a general use bike. I don't see how the negative points for a suspension fork apply in that case, namely weight and bobbing when pedaling out of the saddle. There is the argument for simplicity over extra complication and servicing cost of a suspension fork, but it's on the bike already so get your money's worth out of it at least, I'd say.

As far as a rigid replacement goes, anything with a suitable steerer, the same brake mount, tyre clearance and approximate suspension correction should do. Identiti do a suspension corrected rigid fork, and a Google search for suspension corrected rigid fork should bring plenty up, but if you can get anything of suitable axle to crown with curved fork legs I've always preferred that for comfort. Carbon is another option for more comfort with straight legs. Recently I swapped a straight legged Light Blue fork for a Surly with curved fork legs (I don't know if the word 'raked' is correct here or not) and it has been a noticeable improvement comfort-wise. That was on a non-electric bike. (And not suspension corrected)

I don't know about any bags, but would it help to just have the end of the axle well padded? Bikes shipped in boxes from the factory have plastic covers for the axle ends, or you could tape bottle caps to the end of the axles, or are they just too wide for the bag to close?

This is a good one that we had in, an interesting way of adding a piggyback battery to a folding e-bike, '2 fast 4 u', a nice wall socket and great big holes drilled through the main frame tube.