Cycling UK Forum

what is a typical price for a belt?

does your current bike have decent mudguards with a lengthy front mudflap?

do you clean the chain regularly?

i have both a rennkompressor pump (a red one with a leather retaining strap for the handle) and a silca. the latter has a simple, push on chuck and is far easier to use than the SKS - the head of that is far too big and tends to flop out of line with the valve causing sealing issues. the pumping action itself is fine though.

in pure engineering terms, to take the forces involved, what would be the best shape? something that doesn't taper at all?

does the orientation a square taper 'hole' make any difference? (it did BITD when i broke a chainset side crank as the stoker of a tandem to find the replacement....er.....was differently oriented to the left hand side. bah! )

ta muchly. tis numbers 1 and 3 needed methinks

not yet no. it's on the way to mrs mig in another part of the country so i won't see it for a month or so. then i'm hoping to fettle it into a wheel - should the thing work ! note to self - find a rim to take a 35c tyre in the next few weeks.

i'm hoping that the axle is fairly standard despite the hub being an uncommon one - but you never know!

I have been promised an SRAM I-light front hub to play with for use as a spare next winter. Good stuff.

However it has no fixing nuts on the axle ends. Can't find them size/info anywhere online.

Anyone ever used one?

Thanks

would the evans store be able to demonstrate that sort of flex with a similar/the same bike from stock?

i have a sunny weather commuter bike much like this - a 631 frame, miche hubs on open pro rims, running only a front caliper. lovely to ride. i'm not sure that i'd go for a 28H (or less) front wheel though as it can take a bit of hammer in braking. whilst i see that you try to mostly 'pedal brake' it's not always that practical down from higher speeds.

such was the weather last year i only rode mine a handful of times sadly. hoping for better this year! good luck.

do you use two brake calipers?

ACF-50 if you prefer something 'thinner' and easier to spray.

yes tyres!

i plod around all winter on wheels with 37c continental winters, 28c schwalbe marathons and the odd GP4seasons. When spring arrives and the dry weather (remember that?) comes along out comes a bike with 23c (remember those?) ultremos and it feels like riding on air. no doubt the relative lightness of the frame helps too. nothing running at very high pressures.

not sure that it is very easy to tell wheel ride quality one from the other apart from comparing the very sturdy end to the very lightweight end of things.

engineering question.

is there any reason (other than design/looks) why the arrangement for the seat post clamp at the top of the seatstays on this bike is that way? ie that the clamp 'sticks out' noticeably.

does it avoid any weaknesses in the join? or create any indeed?

(it reminds me of 'Look' bikes back in the Alex Zulle/Jalabert days when i think that carbon tubes were bonded into alu lugs.)

Debs wrote: ↑31 Jan 2024, 11:59pm Whenever discussing the benefits (or not) of flashing bicycle lights it is important to know; the rate of flashing, the brightness of the flash (lumens?), and the angle of aim in which the lamp is set upon the bicycle in question.

For examples; a rapid strobe-like flash from a very bright daylight type light, at direct eye contact level, and used in the dark or even at dusk, will cause annoyance or worse a danger with dazzling other road users.

However, a slow rate of flash from a less powerful (but sensible) lumen at a dipped angle will still get noticed and will be far easier for other road users to estimate distance and speed.

i have seen alot of this over this winter with front lights. makes me avert my gaze even when cycling (when my eyeline is above the light) but is dangerous when dazzling a driver.

well if you ever get bored with it on the shelf................