Cycling UK Forum

Tom Schafernaker was right when he mentioned a mudbath at glastonbury on the news at midday on BBC radio 4 today. Did anyone else here him. He struggled to contain himself from laughing. I now know the reason why as I live approx 20 miles from Pilton (site of the glastonbury festival). We have just had 3 hours of torrential rain, thunder and lightning, and as i type this I can here more coming! Stand by with the hosepipe Mary when hubby gets home!

Thanks for the advice and links and especially those great tips about sealing up the hub Rogerzilla. I will be taking it apart again soon to do this. Should save me hours of cleaning! Just glad i am not at Glastonbury, has been torrential rain and thunderstorms here for about 3 hours and more to come as i can here more rumbling coming my way as I type this and I am only 20 miles from Pilton!!!!!!

roger

After experiencing problems with my 1976 S/A 3 speed AW hub slipping in 2nd gear i finally got around to stripping it to investigate. I found that the right hand bearing cone was not tightened up by a couple of complete turns and the slack had been taken up on the left hand side. I put the slipping gear down to this. I tightened the right hand cone and relocked it. Internally I could see no obvious damage so I have re-assembled everything and it now feels fine but have only ridden 12 miles on it to check it out. My major query is over the refiting of the right hand ball ring as despite marking it as it came out i was not convinced that i had not turned it an extra 180 degrees due to the course 2 start thread. What symptons would you expect if the right hand ball ring was replaced 180 degrees out from its original location. Does it matter as the whole internal assembly rotates anyway?

Any help much appreciated from you hub gear experts. Roger

Got it finally. Why did no one mention you had to be logged in to see it !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

The tapping size for an M6 thread is 5mm. If you are using a 5 mm bolt which passes through then you are probably close to the size required for tapping a new M6 thread. Providing the existing hole is not right on the edge of the drop out i cannot forsee a problem in retapping. Run a 5mm drill through then retap carefully with an M6 tap using a bit of light oil as a lubricant.

When refitting the rack make sure you grease the hole and bolt.

Regards, roger

Hi Matt,
If you look at the indentations in the races you may notice that they are deepest only in the for and aft positions. If not too deep then you can extend its life by removing the fork crown race and the lower top tube race and replacing at 90 degrees in relation to each other (ie rotating the crown race by 45 degrees clockwise and the lower head tube race by 45 degrees anticlockwise). I have also managed to sand the indentations out of a headset using emery paper and this was very effective but did involve a lot of effort and extremely sore thumbs!
Regards, Roger

I believe that one of the Italian manufacturers (Either 3t or ITM) only made 25.8mm stems initially when 26mm bars started to be made which they advertised as being suitable for both 25.4 or 26.0mm bars.

So this is why campag make corkscrews !

Lost a handelbar end plug so made a temporary repair with a plastic wine cork. So effective that I did both sides and this is now a permanent solution until I renew the handelbar tape.

Roger

I have managed to give a tyre a new life by running a narrower section tyre inside one with a split casing. It is a bit trial and error to find one thats gives a good fit and it does make it more difficult to fit/remove (Metal tyre levers recommended). I have managed to extend the life of a Cont top touring with a split casing 2cm long to the point where it was worn to the canvas. An extra 2000 miles on the back of a tandem. I would not do this on the front wheel though.

Regards, roger

7 speed road hubs were spaced at 126mm. Some touring bikes may have used 7 spd MTB hubs spaced at 130mm. Here is Sheldons Browns link
http://www.sheldonbrown.com/gloss_sp-ss.html

Hi Mick F,

Saw your map but didn't recognise the B road through gulworthy. In my youth 60/70's i would use the A390 regularly. When dropping down to Gunnislake from Tavistock half the club would try to get to the bottom first by taking the minor road short cut. No roundabout either at gulworthy in those days. I am glad that the road from tavistock to yelverton is still ok for cycling as i assumed the provision of the cycle route implied that it was now very busy.

Apologies if i have sidetracked this thread but it has jogged my memory as i lived in Plymouth until the early 70's

Regards, roger

You need a JIS standard headset not an ISO one fitted to most modern bkes with 1" headsets. Read the following link to this query
viewtopic.php?f=5&t=17078&p=136071&hilit=+headset#p136071
JIS headsets were fitted to quality older british bikes not cheap Japanese ones as inferred previously.

I must be your age as i had the same tubs in the late 60's early 70's. I remember using the tyre savers and also remember that some riders just used a strip of sticky tape (cloth handlebar tape) stuck across the forks or chain stays with the sticky surface facing rearwards to catch any flints etc. You will have to cut a half round section to roughly match the tyre profile and they will only be effective if your tyres/wheels are truly concentric. Perhaps this is why they fell out of fashion after tubs fell out of favour. This may be a bit fiddly with mudguards though.

Roger B

Come on Mick F do you remember Fortran 4. Had to write the programme and transfer it onto punched cardboard cards to load into the computer in order to run it. The first programme I wrote was for a gear table. Never used it again once I finished my education.

Spring has finally arrived.
Spotted this swan today on the somerset levels.



Was on my way to purchase some small recycling bags (smaller version of the builders dumpy bags) so we can grow spuds in them this year. Has anyone tried these?

Roger and out.