Cycling UK Forum

Some people never do maintenance. Some people never take any care in operating anything. Some people break things frequently.

Single speed and fixed gear bikes suit these people (i.e. bike couriers) since there is less to go wrong and they're cheaper to fix. And if one is only rding short distances or on flattish terrain without significant loads then SS/fixed is enough.

One could also argue that bicycles of any sort are unnecessarily complicated when it is possible to get just about everywhere by walking, that letters are perfectly adequate and email is overkill, etc...

^ Frogs solve these issues almost completely since only fore-aft adjustment is vaguely critical. It's useful to get the rotational adjustment right as this controls how far inwards one's heel can move, and where the release point is, but unless one stuffs things up massively rotational adjustment is not at all crucial. Unless one has a phobia about float I don't see any reason to use pedals where there is little or none.

Re Brucey's comments:
1. Yes the 740x FH model numbers varied with the number of sprockets as did things like shift levers, cassettes, chains, etc. There were also a couple of different BBs, brake calipers, etc, etc.
2. Yes, friction shifting is better with HG cogs or the like than it was back in the bad old days, but a lot of my riding is in heavy urban traffic and any extra time or thought devoted to gear changes is too much for my liking. There have been a number of "never go back" changes since I started cycling and indexing (and bar mounted shifters) are amongst them

Yes, it is technically possible, but this is a really bad idea - just don't do it! Either build another wheel or get a hub with the right number of spoke holes; much frustration will be saved...

Somebody said on page one that "DHL delivers to almost everywhere" (or words to that effect) but this is not true outside first world countries. In reality, there is *NO* reliable access to spare parts sent from overseas in India or Pakistan (and probably Nepal), limited local availability in Nepal (two or three shops in Kathmandu) and I have no doubt the situation is similar in much of the rest of Asia, South America (Cass at whileoutriding.com says nothing except 26" tyres there), Africa, etc.

If going on a long, remote tour you should not depend on local availability of spares, tools or expertise!!! If everything is good when you depart then it's true that problems are not all that likely for a while but havng stuff that is simple and fixable by the rider is better than having complicated stuff that is not.

Later,
Stephen

I've used a variety of clipless pedals including Cinelli M-71, Look, Time, Speedplay's X-series and Frog, and SPDs. I've tried the latter more than once, the second time with the "floating" road cleats, but disliked almost everything about them. While I still have some Time and X-series pedals out in the shed I've been using Frogs exclusively for the last few years, and now have a few pairs. Compared to SPDs, they are lighter, offer more float, and are quicker and easier to enter and exit; I've had zero knee issues with Speedplay pedals. The Frog cleats are more expensive than some but IME they last a long time - I have yet to wear a set of the new style cleats out.

I personally dislike platform pedals for anything except very short distance casual riding, and find the lack of attachment to the bike disturbing. If I really need to ride in walking shoes, then I've used toeclips in the past but really should get around to trying Power Grips or the new velcro fixie footstraps some day.

Later,
Stephen

+2 for Dave Yates. I haven't owned one of his bikes, but very nearly bought one after seeing samples of his work at York Rally in the early 1980s. In the end I got a Tony Oliver as Tony's personal bike was almost eactly what I wanted, and I rode PBP 1983 successfully on it, plus commuted and toured on it until some scumbag stole it last year. Dave has had another 30 years to perfect his craft and I've never seen anything but positive comments. Also, he actually rides audax (as did Tony Oliver) so surely knows what is required.

Back in 2009 I used Salomon XA Pro GoreTex trail runners when cycling from Manali to Leh in the Himalayas, and also for trekking and general walking around, including on snow. These shoes have a relatively stiff sole - much stiffer than some cheap walking boots - and are light, grippy on almost all surfaces, comfy, etc. I never had problems with hot feet (YMMV) and was extremely glad they kept water out when riding through snowmelt. There is a non-GoreTex version too. They are a bit bulkier than most cycling shoes, but are infinitely easier to live with off the bike. If you need more ankle support there is also a "mid" version which comes above the ankle and is also much more compatible with gaiters.

Some later versions appear to have considerably softer soles, so it's best to exercise some caution; I think the GoreTex ones are still stiff though.

Later,
Stephen

Dura-Ace 6, 7 and 8 speed indexed groupsets were all 7400, or actually 740x with x being between 0 and 3; it's been a while but as I recall the first 6 speed rear mechs were 7400, 7 speed were 7401 or 7402 and 8 speed were 7403. Some bits had their numbers incremented as they were updated over the years, while others, like front hubs, stayed the same throughout. There were also a couple of later parts labelled 7410, including the low profile cranks and matching BBs, etc.

740x lasted from late 1984 through to 1996, then Dura-Ace 7700 (9 speed) came out in 1997. There were no 7500 or 7600 road groups, although IIRC there was/is a Dura-Ace 7600 track group. Sorry I cannot measure the cable drum diameters easily as I only have one pair (Dura-Ace) and they're on a bike.

While I suppose that one could use the levers in non-indexed mode if desperate (or trying to prove a point) I've never had any need or desire to do so since 1984. No way I'd ever go back to pre-SIS crappy shifting thank you very much.

Later,
Stephen

I've had a pair of Mavic 231 Ceramc rims since 1992, originally bought for a MTB, and built with mark 1 XTR hubs ad DT 1.8/1.6mm DB spokes and alloy nipples. They are still going strong, although one or two of the drive side spoke holes may be starting to crack. The wheels have been ridden off road a reasonable amount and have done one marathon series here in Oz, plus two tours and one stage race in the Himalayas, etc. The coating is still there and has not flaked noticeably. There have been zero braking problems, and I've been using standard Shimano pads since 1992 with no noise or excessive wear. In fact I have not replaced any pads, though to be fair two brakesets (canti and v) have had to be used on different bikes. I've found wet braking, both in the rain and after stream crossings, to have zero "rim drying out" lag, and IMHO rim brakes are less problematic and lighter than discs, but this is a matter of almost religious fervour for some, so no correspondence please(!).

The rims are very light and have stayed true extremely well, but I'm light, careful and have built wheels professionally, so YMMV. I'd not hesitate to buy another pair or two tomorrow if I could get some (and had the cash). Note that it seems both Mavic and DT may have discontinued ceramic rims as none appear on their current websites, so what's out there may be it. The Rigida rims are relatively very heavy, which IMO is excessive since I've failed to bend or wear out the circa 400g 231s.

Bottom line is that if you intend to use rim brakes for whatever reason then in my experience ceramic rims are worthwhile. They can be damaged by being seriously abused (like any rim) so if you are prone to destroying wheels frequently they might not be the most cost-effective option...

There were two different (RH) 8 speed bar-end shifters, Ultegra (SL-BS50-8) and Dura-Ace (cannot remember the model number). Everything is identical apart from the model number on the packaging and the diameter of the cable drum. As far as I know *all* LH Shimano bar end shifters from the indexing era are functionally identical.

There were never Dura-Ace bar end shifters for <8 speeds and, as stated above, the 7 speed RH lever came with a plastic shim that clipped into the cabe groove to make it work with 6 speed freewheels or cassettes. 9 and 10 speed Dura-Ace (i.e, everything post 1996 and with model numbers from 7700 upwards) is cross compatible with non-Dura-Ace road components, and most non-10 speed MTB bits with the exception thaat road STI levers won't pull enough cable to work with MTB triple front mechs. 9 speed shifters (any type) work perfectly with Dura-Ace 740x rear derailleurs and 8 speed cassettes, and Dura-Ace 9 speed mechs work in otherwise Dura-Ace 8 speed drivetrains provided the alternate cable routing mentioned above is used.

The chances are that whatever bar end shifter you have it will work with something.

Later,
Stephen