Cycling UK Forum

ncutler wrote: ↑6 Aug 2024, 3:45pm Amongst other more or less useful information the Vado SL app provides a graphical view of ride data.

This was a quick sortie yesterday to a local supermarket.


WhatsApp Image 2024-08-06 at 15.31.45_8596775f.jpg


The yellow line shows the power level: off, eco, sport, turbo
The blue line is the power output by the motor
The numbers along the bottom are distance in miles

I tend to be quite active with the mode switch, using it much as I would a front triple.

Interesting.
Do you have to connect the App and then tell it to record the ride, or is that information stored anyway?

I'm just learning how to use my eBike and wondered how others used the e bit.
It is a Vado SL 4.0 so a very light bike.

At the moment I am trying to ride on 1 of 3 power mode (although I managed to accidentally turn it off in a tail wind and didn't notice until I turned off) as much as possible.

Power mode 2 for moderate hills at the start of the rides and headwinds at the end of the rides.

Power mode 3 for steep hills.

I hope to increase my fitness until I can ride most of the ride with the motor off, as a precursor to using my non-electric bikes again.
It will be a comfort, though, to have an emergency "just get me home" even when my legs are fit again.

Thanks to all.

I have currently replaced the RHS grip and am making sure that it works as hoped before attacking the LHS.

Struggling a bit with getting at the underside of the bars, due to hand issues.

I hope an updated Lidl bike stand will make this easier.

In my case I have had medical advice and the dosage of Allopurinol was titrated against blood tests.

There are many possible triggers including beer, red meat etc.
However there don't seem to be any guaranteed triggers and I have been clear for a good few months now until this latest flare up.

Thankfully the most affected area (little finger on the left hand) seems to be improving now.
We shall see.

Hydration is a possibility but as far as I can tell I am staying hydrated, judging by the colour of my urine.

I was mainly looking for anecdotal evidence of cycling being associated with gout flare ups, but it looks as though most people only have it in the feet.

I have suffered on and off with gout for a while.
First in the feet, then later in other joints, mainly in my hands.
I am on 200 mg Allopurinol a day.

I have been fine for a while, but have recently started riding again and at around the same time I have had a flare up in my fingers.

Correlation and causation, of course, but has any other gout victim had a flare up at roughly the same time as increased exercise levels?

Of course, we have also had a spell of fairly hot weather, so riding on a warm day may also be a factor.

I have my GP2s.
As mentioned in the eBike forum, I don't have quite enough clearance on the LHS to get the clamp onto the end of the bar.
I am very reluctant to cut the grip down at the inboard end, so looking if I can move some components further in the bar.
As usual, nothing is easy.

I may well ride with one Specialized grip and one GP2 to allow me to have a mirror while I decide how to fit the LHS with minimum damage to all the bits.

Well, I've got the fancy grips.
Ergon GP2.
Very nice too.

The only problem is the power switch on the LHS bars is outboard of the brake lever.
Has anyone tried moving this?
Ideally I would like it to be inboards of the brake lever to maintain the placement of the brake lever with regards to the grips.
However (apart from having trouble getting the correct hex key size) I have no idea if this will cause issues with the wiring.

Nothing is easy!

PH wrote: ↑28 Jul 2024, 9:37pm Best is a bit of a loaded question, but I think the first grips of that sort were the Ergon and I like them. An advantage over those in your link is the grip and the bar end can be adjusted independently. Early versions were not compatible with any mirror, later versions are, though I'm not sure if it's all mirrors or specific ones. the come in two sizes of grip depending on your hand size, and several lengths of bar end depending on your preference.
https://www.ergonbike.com/en/product/?a=griffe

Thanks.
I went through the selection process which suggested GP2.
I checked and these do seem to have removeable bar end plugs.

Just waiting for SJS to reply with the bar diameter (which doesn't seem to be quoted anywhere).
Is 22mm the standard flat bar diameter?

Having more or less decided (eBike Forum) that I will have to replace my Specialized handlebar grips because they are...ummm...to specialised to be able to easily fit bar end mirrors, I am looking for some grips which give a little extra padding and support.

A quick search gave me:
https://www.amazon.co.uk/ELOSIS-Ergonom ... 15MH/?th=1
which look interesting, and also have end plugs which could be removed to fit the bar end mirrors.
[Slightly confusing that the 22mm option is about half the price of the 22MM option!]

Does anyone have recommendations for this style (or similar) grips?

Looking for a slightly shaped and cushioned grip (because I do like the Specialized grips) with open/plugged ends.
Would also consider plain grips with some kind of bar end like used on an MTB.
Not so much for out of the seat climbing (it is an eBike) but more for a change of grip and position on 20 mile+ rides.

Be aware that the height of the neck of the towbar can also be crucial.

I've just had a towbar fitted to our motor home, and found that my Thule clip on bike carrier wouldn't fit.
Thule were very helpful, and sent me the attached picture.

Turns out my particular bar doesn't have enough height before the neck starts to bend.
So a "high lift" or similar bar might be a wise option.

It might be wise to select your carrier before you have your towbar fitted so you can make sure the dimensions are compatible.

I am trying (at the moment unsuccessfully) to fit bar end mirrors to my new eBike.

The Zeefal Dooback 2 seems to fit the bill, so I have bought a left and right pair.

On initial fitting attempt on the bare bar, I couldn't get it to "nip up" and grip the inside of the bar.
After a degree of cursing, disassembly, reassembly etc. I decided to lubricate with WD40, grip the adjuster bit with pliers, and screw the Allen bolt in forcefully.
After a couple of passes of the bolt all was working fine, but if I hadn't had the confidence to give it some extra force I would have been stumped.
I assume that the plastic overlapped the metal thread a bit and stopped the bolt coming through as it should when first tried.

So a brief note here.

I've now managed a 22 mile ride (small hills only) and am generally well pleased.
Odometer showed 32 miles (includes short rides), battery charge 51%.

My main niggle is that everything seems to be tailored to Specialized kit, unlike every other bike I have owned.

I fitted a spare bottle cage then set about fitting a pair of Zefal Dooback 2 bar end mirrors.
Every other bike, I have cut the end out of the hand grip and then fitted the mirror.
Oh no, these aren't any ordinary bar hand grips.
These are Specialized hand grips!
There is some kind of moulding (I assume plastic) under the ends of the grips.

Now I like the palm rests on the grips as it makes the riding position a bit easier on the longer ride.
However I feel exposed without a rear view mirror.
[Difficulty in twisting to look back.]

I now have to decide between major surgery on the hand grips, or replacing them.
If I replace them I am then looking at bar ends to improve the hand position.
Ah, well.

Not much help, but in around 2008 I bought a well used Dawes Galaxy from someone who had toured on it a lot.
It came with a Nimrod rear carrier, which looks fine to me.
So an ancient brand.

No idea if this toured with the bike or was added on to replace a better carrier to sell.
However I suspect it had long term use, as there were loads of other oldish bits of kit left on the bike.

Next thing to come along.

First fit of the front mudguard, looks reasonable.

However to get onto the tappings at the base of the forks, the stays go over the end of the axle. It is a through axle not quick release.

This implies the first step of removing and refitting the front wheel (including mending a puncture) requires the removal of the front mudguard stay.
This doesn't feel right.
Presumably all set up to fit the Specialized bespoke front mudguards.

I note that 531colin has bent and shortened the stays to use the front carrier low rider mounting half way down the forks.
This may well be the best option.
I do have a Tubus low rider which would fit but I don't see me needing front and back carriers any time soon.

531colin wrote: ↑9 Jul 2024, 1:14pm

LittleGreyCat wrote: ↑8 Jul 2024, 1:42pm ..................
There is a sliding clip included for the rear guard and I would prefer to use this as this gives options for post install adjustments, instead of your suggestion of just screwing the mudguard on.
I can either cut off the vertical part and screw on directly, or fabricate a bracket to provide a vertical bracket exported from the horizontal hole under the cross piece (which seems the most sensible option today as it gives me more scope for adjustment).
Should someone have a link to this "L" bracket that would save me a lot of hassle and bending of bits.

What "adjustment" are you looking to make?
I have fitted 40mm (tubeless) tyres to my bike, and the mudguard is closest to the tyre where the mudguard passes under the seatstay bridge; I wouldn't mind a bit more clearance there, but i can't get more.
I have spaced the guard a bit away from the bottom bracket shell/engine housing to keep the mudguard curve similar to the wheel. I don't mind making a slot to fix the guard at the bottom bracket, but at the seatstay bridge I feel i need all the strength I can get.....in the mudguard(!)

I was looking for fine vertical adjustment, as you get if the bolt is on the side of the seat stay cross piece instead of underneath.
The mudguard clip designed to fit there has quite a long slot to allow it to be moved up and down.
I was also looking to be able to slide the mudguard a bit front to back, although with the screw at the bottom front to the bottom bracket the scope for this looks limited.

I can cut away the vertical bit of the mudguard clip then screw that to the cross piece, which would give me the slideability.

[Just tried to post a picture from my phone but the world hates me at the moment.]

However I note that you wanted to get the mudguard even higher, so such a mudguard clip would be in the way.