Cycling UK Forum

Jeez.

Stick em in a cheap plasic toolbox.

I have two large, one huge, and around 4 small cheap plastic tool boxes like you find in B&Q, Homebase, Sainsburies, Lidl etc, and they have been going strong for years, over a decade. Far easier to store and move around, and handy for just moving the tools required in comparison to the almost a meter square floor standing tool box and two tool box tops I have.

Ah, edit, I see you got a decent one cheap, GG. It looks rather nice for the money!

As for becoming a bike mechanic, well there are courses, that usually cost too much considering the employment, wages and working conditions the majority of retailers offer. Some bicycle retail places give you hands on experience and tips, but many may have nothing to offer over what a decent bicycle maintenance hardback can offer, other than an experienced eye and even at that many who would be teaching you will have no training other than their own with what they learnt in their way during their employment.
Some retailers are detrimental expecting 15 minutes of training per day in a couple of weeks to make an experienced bicycle assembler/mechanic that is productive enough to keep.

If you did want a job in the bicycle industry, you would be better off aiming at some management position within bicycle retail, I have met a good few of the UK's most "insert impolite words here" with absolutely no idea what end of a bike you sit on, never mind what components do, or what tools are required, managing and buying within the bicycle retail industry. Usually earning around 8 times what many mechanics earn, and spending up to half their working day on Google because they have no work to do.

Considering bicycles are sold to various purchasers of various abilities and used on public roads where huge metal objects travel at very fast speeds with little regard to anyone, I can guarantee that any buisness or shop that expects productivity and measures such is worth avoiding. That is why we should be supporting smaller independant bicycle retailers and not the big boys and multi store cowboys with no interest in quality over quantity or safety before profit!

I have only used mine lightly since getting it.

I am thinking of a few changes though, anyone have any brake levers without the gear changing STI's that they recommend for use with the BB7's? What about recomending a more compact chainset too?

Clearing out the loft, I found some Dura Ace 9spd bar end shifters and XTR 960 F&R mechs, all boxed from a project I abandoned years ago, so was thinking of putting all this on, with a more compact gearing if I can find suitable brake levers and chainset. I don't really enjoy the road bike style Sora gearing on this.

I never updated this, but ended up with Ortlieb Back Roller Plus QL2 and front Roller Plus.

They have been fine, not as stiff and secure feeling as the old Vaude clip felt, but the lower hook is fine and nothing has fell off, they look better and seem a bit lighter, pockets inside too. Though I am sure my Vaude was larger.

Just curious as to what panniers people are using.

For years I have used old Vaude fully waterproof rollover Panniers, the left/right specific ones with a hard back, and a strap that goes right round the bottom. Only had a few broken clips, currently using zip ties to hold a hook on with no problems, but the bag got a small rip in a road accident.

Now thinking of a new set, as I can't see exact replacements for mine, I am thinking of Vaude Aqua Deluxe instead. But I cant find any front specific smaller models or larger rears?

531colin wrote:

SastusBulbas wrote:Well I am going to place an order for the size medium Specialized Awol Deluxe tomorrow. Will let you know how I get on!......:

I wish you well. Without a test ride I think you're crazy, but I wish you well.

Welcome to the real world. In many of today's bicycle purchases a test ride is not available.

For the Awol, like I said, in comparison to the norm, top tube length is brought into line by a short stem, there ain't much in the seat tube angle that cant be countered by saddle rails or an inline.

I get on with a 54cm Allez, on paper the contact point's match. I don't think the risk is that crazy.

Well I am going to place an order for the size medium Specialized Awol Deluxe tomorrow. Will let you know how I get on!

It ticks most of the boxes regarding what I want for riding to work, and the medium, when you consider the stem length, is not too far off the size and measured contact points of a 54cm Allez which I would usually choose for size. Price is right too.

I may try a pair of On-One Mary bars as well after I re-adjust to drops. I may do a double wrap pistol grip on the end of the drops too for extra comfort if required. Though funny enough, I have had to ride my NS Surge to work the last couple of times and no pins n needles, just stiff legs. Small singlespeed play bike with a 50mm stem, wide Raceface risers, skinny lock on grips and a 160mm travel Marzocchi 55.

Cheers all,

I will give a medium Specialized Awol Deluxe a shot. Will put an order in tomorow.

Not a fan of the Revolution Country range, nor Tricross.

As I would like steel, disc brakes on chainstay, rack n muddies, 700C+42 and an upright position it seems to tick the right boxes and it's appearance does not displease me.

Hi all,

Recent web browsing had me stumble across the Specialized Awol, which started me off on the new bike thought process. Now I love bikes, have worked in the industry for 15 years or so, ridden since primary school, but gave up and sold most of my bikes when my 1st child was born. Later returning to part time recreation off road with long travel bikes and a few new injuries. But what I have never stopped, is my commuting by bicycle to work, heavily relying on full mudguards and a rack that will take a heavy load, albeit, rather cheaply, on an old 18" Trek 930 MTB from 1998 with various bits and bobs from anywhere as needed. This has been running since 1998/99.

Now this has served me well, readily available parts for little cost due to there always being old MTB parts around have been about the only reason I stuck with it. But it has always felt compromised, and under geared when kitted out with Sport Contacts, as a commuter.
It is old, rusty, and yet again needs some love time and money, tyres, rims, brake blocks etc. And over the last couple of years I have been finding it less comfortable due to issues with pins n needles in the hands mostly left and up the underside of the arm. This is not just bicycle related, and not something I want to discuss in this thread, though I have been made aware there are threads discussing this! Changing the stem and bars to a more upright position alleviated the symptoms and was more comfortable.

I have the opportunity to get a BTW, but have to order before the end of September. I am considering the Awol, but it's sizing has thrown me, had thought the medium but it has a long top tube. I have no idea about Tourers, but so far this is Awol is what grabbed my attention and ticked all the boxes. Full mudguards, racks, upright riding position, disc brakes, 700+42 tyres which I may find OK in winter. And of course price!

Any size guidance or other similar specified and priced bikes anyone can suggest please?

I am 42 yrs old, 14st, 5'8 with a 31" inside leg. My last road bike was around 2003, a 54cm Allez E5 with a 549mm top tube and 100mm stem and 44/46cm width bar.

531colin wrote:I wasn't suggesting you "improve" the current bike, just use it as a means to find out exactly what it is that causes your hand problems on the bike.
It seems to me that is a better alternative than splashing the cash on a bike which is just as likely to make your hands worse as it is to make them better.
At the end of the day, its your money and your choice.
You did, however, ask for advice.....here is some more.....read this thread...http://forum.ctc.org.uk/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=35438

Thank you, my apologies, but it was not advice on my "pin's and needles" I was asking, I have a good idea what the issues are and have taken steps to alleviate it with slight success on the old Trek. The hand problems occur not only on the bike, I feel it is not so much a case of the bike giving me hand problems as a case of my hand problems starting to affect my cycling, the same thing happened with a more upright Hardrock with rigid Genesis forks and sometimes on the other bikes. The thread you posted has just about everything I have tried myself in the past, but I appreciate the link and will look at more of the threads regarding such issues!
As an example, if I do press ups, I get the issue, if I use an orbital sander I get the issue, when I wake up I have locked fingers on the left hand and that pins n needles feeling, if I do not ride a bike for three weeks the issue is still there. It is an issue i have discussed in a hospital visit, and currently changing work practice and the ride position are my ways of helping myself, it is related as much to computing, working with tools, and some old injuries including collar bone and back, and as such posture, as it is to cycling.

Hence my interest in more up right touring, commuting type bicycles. Regardless of the hand issue I have the opportunity to purchase a new bike, the wife says no to the likes of a Specialized P.Slope, but her and a few others have pointed out that I keep returning to that old Trek every day, my most used bike, which is badly rusted, with rim brakes which I hate, currently a bust rear rim and in need of new tyres, brake blocks, and a few other bits n bobs, filthy, rusty, and in general looking like it was dragged out a canal apparently

Raising the bars and adding a little more sweep helped that Trek slightly, it does have a very short headtube which sort of limits it a little, but I do have a stem raiser somewhere, I had pondered over On-One Mary bar, to see if the different hand angle would do anything. But no rucksack and bars at the same level of the saddle are currently helpful.

My original query was with regard to touring bikes, in patricular this Specialized Awol which had to me alien geometry and sizing. Hence me asking for some general advice on where I should pay attention. To be honest I thought a medium would be right, but was concerned with top tube length as others have addressed. It embarrasses me to say this, but I have spent the last 15 years working for the same Bicycle company within a workshop, but have remained completely ignorant to the touring bike. The few staff that I knew who have purchased such have only done so based on their road bike sizes, and a requirement for a bike with muddies and a rack to get them through a period with no car.

I am interested in buying a touring type bicycle, full mudguards, a rack, 700+42 tyres, disc brakes that work with STI, high bars and something different from flat bars or an MTB are what I think would make my commute more enjoyable. I just have no knowledge on this area of cycling

I would have went for a 54cm road bike, with 172.5mm cranks, 100mm stem. Same as my old Allez, and pretty much the new Allez, but they are too low down and racey, with rim brakes and inspire little confidence in winter with no load bearing capabilities. I do not like the Whyte cross bikes, nor their flat bar commuters, nor the Genesis to be honest. many of these new "commuters" seem stuck in between a cyclo cross and road bike, and some offer little inspiration when ridden. The Surly I find too big, and do not like the feel of. And I am sure I have experienced toe overlap on some of them, so probably would not be doing flat pedals or adding 29-2.2 tyres.

Apart from questionable geometry, this Awol seemed to tick all the boxes including price, though I would maybe put my own rack on it. As such had someone gave me sizing advice on what a 14st 5. rider with a 31" inseem would probably be best with, I may well have just ordered it.

To be honest I seem to have derailed this thread, so maybe should open up my own thread asking about tourer advice, thanks all

Brucey wrote:it used to be possible to tell BB5/7s as road or mtn by colour, but not any more.

That's new news to me, as I have not seen any news from Avid, nor details of black BB5 road variants, though I have now seen black BB7 which specify ROAD on them. Something to look out for as any any road specific BB5/7 will have an R suffix after the BB5 or Road after the BB7. If not it IS MTB specific.

531colin wrote:

SastusBulbas wrote:.................... pins and needles in the hands are common when commuting ...........................
............................... I may benefit from larger wheels.
.........................

First job is to sort out the pins and needles using your existing bike. Search the forum for "+carpal+tunnel+syndrome", you will get some hits.
from memory, ring and little finger is ulnar nerve compression (eg in your shoulder), thumb, index and middle is carpal tunnel.

Say you have 2 bikes, one has the "benefit" of larger wheels, the other doesn't hurt your hands.....which bike gets ridden?

When you have sorted your hands out, you can think about frame size, top tube length, drops/flats and all that other stuff.

The Trek is old and done, it has been in use since 1998. And as I have only this month to pick a BTW, I think the time has come to move on. I never used to have these issues, I am having them now, repeated attempts to change components on this old bike are nothing more than wasting money.

The pins and needles issue has been there for a couple of years now, it was worse when the Trek had flat bars and it's low front end. It has been improved slightly with a higher rise stem and riser bars, a slightly more upright position. It is not just bike related though, as I also suffer from trigger finger on my left hand and I am starting to feel issues on the right. I work with hand tools all day, have done for the last 15 yrs.
This was not an issue earlier in life, I have been riding bikes since childhood, and had properly set up MTB's during the 90's and onward. I gave up the full day's in the saddle rides and sold most of my bikes when we had our 1st child 9/10 yrs ago, but have done the same commute since. And a bit of play biking here and there.

For a commute, the "benefit" of larger wheels is noticeable, quite simply in my opinion 26" wheels with skinny Conti Sport Contact's and MTB gearing do not compete with 700C and "bigger" gears As it shortens time in saddle, it helps alleviate discomfort, and as the "tourer" type bike is more suited to racks, mudguards, loads, and offers a higher riding position with more hand options, it seems churlish to keep trying to improve an old MTB that is rusting and not optimal.

Old pics of the Trek, different stem, bars, groupset, and another rigid forks these days. It has always been the budget workhorse of my stable, work, pubs n all sorts, it has served well and done a bit of everything.




Current bikes,

Commencal Supreme DH 2010 S/M.
Giant Faith 2010 Small.
Marin Rift Zone SE 17" 2008.
NS Surge 2 single speed MTB, 160mm fork, medium (15") 2010.
Trek 930 18" 1998.
Rockhopper 18" 1995.

Previous bikes have been many, Stumpjumper, Zaskar, DEAN, Litespeed, Fat Chance, Serotta, etc, all cross country MTB, but as much as I have always commuted to work by bicycle, I have never had an actual commuting bike, my best commuting experience was my Allez E5 SLX road bike with full Dura Ace, that never saw use in winter, the rest have been MTB's with slick tyres, muddies n racks.

Erm,

You seem to be missing the main difference of the BB7, which is that both pads are adjustable. Also pay attention to what model you buy, if using drop bars, go for the road version of the BB5/7 (easy to tell, they are silver). You get slightly less sponge and rub as a result.

I personally do not rate the BB5 for touring or drop's at all, the actuation lever does not retain a straight pad, and very rarely do you get a fully effective rub free brake out the box. Hayes CX Expert have been easier to set up lately and are now on some 2014 Genesis instead of Avid.

Hi all,

New to this forum, registered as it was the only discussion online about this Awol bicycle which I am pondering over.

Looking for a bit of advice, as I am thinking of giving one of these a go, I am curious as to a recommended size. I am 5.8 with 31/32? inside leg. I have never had a touring bike, my last road bike was a 54cm Allez E5 with a 172.5mm crank. As such I was thinking a medium Specialized Awol would be suitable, but is there anything else I should consider regarding the sizing of such a bike?

For over a decade I have done all my commuting work and moving of various heavy loads on an old 18" Trek 930 steel MTB with P60's and Tortec rack. But time and riding has taken it's toll, pins and needles in the hands are common when commuting so I have now added a riser bar and taller stem, and MTB gearing with 26" wheels seems to get slower as I get older, so I was thinking I may benefit from larger wheels.

I used to be quite into my mountain biking, these days, not enough time, what with work and three kids. So the majority of my bicycle time is the daily commute. Around 30/45 minutes riding to work in the morning, same at night, regardless of the weather. Mudguards and rack are a must.