Cycling UK Forum

Hi,

I doubt at 100kg+ that 28mm tyres are your fastest option on typical city roads overall.
Fatter tyres will be faster, much more comfortable, and give your wheels a easier time.

rgds, sreten.

Hi,

Yuo can change bits but nothing will change its a relatively
relaxed steel framed touring bike, and not a road bike.

Having said that keeping up is fitness first, bike second.

rgds, sreten.

Hi,

Unless your a demon descender you've got plenty enough gears.



A fast road bike it isn't, in nearly all the details, most notable is the high bars (for a road
bike), and a relaxed touring body position doesn't help much going as fast as possible.

You could go closer ratio's on the back, but I don't think it will help much.
Nice 28mm road tyres might help over 32mm Marathons.

rgds, sreten.

Hi,

Wow thats weird frame geometry. FWIW its worth you get easily
removable mud guards, these might work, got similar on my bike :
http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/sks- ... -prod25810

rgds, sreten.

Hi, Looks like skid damage to me, possibly overheating, rgds, sreten.

BigFoz wrote:Possibly the most confusing thing is that at the front, smaller means smaller, while at the back the opposite applies, smaller means bigger gear and faster speeds
So small front and big back is your lowest hill climbing gear, while biggest at front and smallest at back is your giggle like a maniac downhill gear.

Hi,

It is not confusing in the slightest with any understanding of gearing.

What is confusing is to how to use your gearing effectively and to
a lesser extent in doing so evening out the wear on front and rear.

rgds, sreten.

Hi,

If your serious about commuting you want a bike to simply do that job.
A cheap used decent no suspension mountain bike can be converted
into into a fine commuter, with proper mudguards and suitable tyres.

There is a lot to said about wear and tear on a cheap hardly used,
used bike, for the daily commute, than the same wear and tear
on a shiny new and expensive bike doesn't make a lot of sense.

Having two bikes shares the wear and tear, and is more flexible.
I have a folder and a road bike, used about the same amount.

rgds, sreten.

Tots88 wrote:Are the Viking bikes on go outdoors for around £200 a waste of time?

Hi,

TBH honest once you know your way around bikes that will be pretty much your opinion.

FWIW I bought a £125 alloy framed Virago from Tesco's that was
near identical to a £250 Viking in the local "cheap" bikeshop. Even
so I replaced the cranks, pedals, seat and tyres to get a decent bike,
all those parts being just as bad on the £250 Viking as the Virago.

The Btwin 3 at £300 is a vastly, chalk and cheese, utterly miles better road bike.

rgds, sreten.

Hi,

On my bike the limit is set at the rear by the tyre width not rubbing on the chainstays.

rgds, sreten.

Hi,

Its much easier to carry a spoke spanner and loosen the two spokes either side
of the broken spoke to get you home - finish your journey. Then respoke.

rgds, sreten.

Hi,

Swap your 2" stem for a 3" (or 4") at a co-op, online or a bike repair shop.

rgds, sreten.

Dave W wrote: It's almost as if anyone who rides on a racing inspired bike on the weekend isn't a proper cyclist.

Hi,

FWIW at 55 overtaking some OAMIL (work it out) on a bike that costs 15 times my bike
kitted out in very expensive cycling kit you do wonder what on earth are they thinking ?

Many weekend cyclists freely admit the bike they have is 3 times more expensive then
they'll really ever need and the same goes for all the kit they use, its not really necessary.

What this has to do with the TDF is beyond me, unless your on about cyclists togged
up to the nines on very expensive bikes to look like TDF wanabees, that are just slow.

And yes, if you just don't ride any type of bike a lot of the time, but get all the kit
on to ride your expensive bike at the weekend, your just not a real cyclist IMO.

rgds, sreten.

Ayesha wrote:Mathematical model.
Equations etc.

Hi,

You don't need either to state the obvious and some are implicitly implied in the post.

Work out the maths yourself, you will understand much better.

rgds, sreten.

Hi,

As I said YMMV. I'm quite happy to concede mostly
front and a little back is the way most people do
stopping fast, but it doesn't mean its the fastest.

I'm left handed, and tend to lock the rear wheel.

Vespa front brakes don't do stoppies, hence
some rear wheel help is available/needed.

rgds, sreten.

Hi,

You've got the link where you can separate the chain in the first picture.

Take it off, measure the stretch over 12", < 1/16" its fine.
Clean it up and lube it (there are loads of ways to skin this cat).

Personally :

Off the bike detergent and a scrubbing brush will clean it up.
Then white vinegar overnight will remove most of the rust.

Then dry it out and then : whatever. I'm not adverse to WD40
liberally applied and then wiped off and then left for a day.
Then apply proper lube sparingly down the centre of the chain.

I use Wolfs, but chainsaw oil is as good as any for cheap lube.

Then just keep it in good condition, however you choose.

FWIW its best to simply regularly keep rotating two chains, and
replace both and the rear cassette when you hit about 1/8".

rgds, sreten.