Cycling UK Forum

I hate twist shifters too and have replaced the rear twist shifter on two bikes (7 speed) with cheap Tourney thumb/trigger shifters.

I don't think that twist shifters are a popular option on straight and alt bars generally but that the thumb/trigger shifters usually associated with "MTB" are the norm

The Velo Orange Crazy bar that I have can have bar-end shifters mounted in the "horns" and I understand that there are several thumb options for flat/alt bars, either complete or converters for bar-end/DT shifters, if you don't want the typical "MTB" shifter.

Please excuse me if I'm being obtuse but I've quickly read through this thread a couple of times and I'm still not sure what people want and what they can/can't do vis-a-vis paid subscriptions vs. free subscriptions.

By way of explanation, typically I only use cycle.travel, Osmand and a Garmin Edge 530 but I have used other navigation services piecemeal, usually on the PC.

I used to use my smartphone and Osmand for on-the-road navigation but had issues that prompted me to go to the dedicated device solution - namely the 530.

I can create a route/course on cycle.travel and send it to my Garmin via my Garmin Connect account. On the PC, I can create a course/route in a plethora of ways and import it to Connect via a web browser session (then send it to my Garmin by "synching"). I have not found a way of doing this on the phone Connect app but I can log on to Connect via a web browser portal on the phone and do it (well I could last time I tried but it was a bit fiddly iirc). I can make routes public in cycle.travel and I can send others a link or they can search for it. I could also save the route in whatever file format I can manage and share it via a cloud service (I don't use these but I understand that the big providers all have the function - Dropbox, iCloud, OneDrive, Google Drive).

Some have mentioned downloading offline maps - I use Osmand for this on my phone and my Garmin seems to have an offline map installed. Google Maps has an offline function too. How are people that subscribe to route services utilising offline maps that those services provide?

I cannot generate a route with cycle.travel when offline but I can with Osmand. I can save the gpx file generated by Osmand. To get this to the Garmin whilst offline, I used to be able to copy and paste this (using a free version of "fx" file manager iirc) to the Garmin once I had connected it to the phone with an "on the fly" cable, but the last time I tried this (new phone and later version of Android), I hit problems with file/location permissions and failed. Why Garmin don't fix a function to import gpx files from a phone via the bluetooth connection is a mystery to me (maybe they can't overcome the permissions issues either).

Are there other features than route planning/creating, navigating and sharing said routes, that are popular? I'm aware of Strava racers and segments but I supposed that that is not what this thread is about.

With the Moloko bar, I considered drilling the front bar to put a large headed bolt through to hook the wire over for an Ortlieb/R&K bag bracket but imho this would have put the bag (and its weight) too far forward. I bought a roll-top strap-on bar bag that I tried both in the gap and on the front bar but for me, it was too awkward, especially with its depth and the way it hung with weight in. I even got a purpose made Surly bag that fitted very nicely in the gap but I found it too small for what I want in a bar bag - and it made any bar attachments awkward (I'm thinking specifically of my Garmin and my bell - I had reasons why I didn't want those items mounted elsewhere, away from the loop).

The loop type bars do look very good for those roll/drybag set-ups to be slung under but that's not what I wanted.

I'm very happy with the Crazy bar and the R&K mount for the Ortlieb (I also have a mahoosive 16L Axiom barbag adapted to use the same bracket but rarely use it nowadays).

Not too long ago, I bought a new bike with non-drop bars, for similar terrain as described in the OP.

I got the Surly Moloko bar but didn't get on with it. I found that I got pain in the wrists and fatigue in different positions. TBH I cannot remember much detail on this except that I found them wide and long in reach. Also, I couldn't find any bar bag set-up that I was happy with with this handlebar (it has a second bar or "loop" forward of the stem) but, being happy with my Ortlieb bar bag on other bikes, decided to look for a replacement handlebar rather than persevering with the Moloko and trying different stems or cutting the bars down. Saying that, I found the "horns" of the Moloko quite comfortable.

I replaced the Moloko with the Velo Orange Crazy bar (v.2), which has a similar sweep to the Moloko but a much shorter reach. I cut the bars down about 45mm each end.

The Crazy bar works very well for me, I like the angle of the sweep-back and I find the width of the bar, as cut down, to give good control whilst being a little easier to get through doorways/narrow gaps. The horns are well placed and a very similar position to the hoods on my drop bar touring bike. If anything, I would like them a little bit closer to the centre but it's not an issue. My hitherto comfy (Spa Nidd) saddle did become seriously uncomfortable but setting it back on the rails a centimetre or two solved the issue completely. I can't remember exactly how far back because I did it out of frustration after two or three hours ride to the campsite.

With regard to grips, I had Ergo grips (Spa) on the Moloko and I did not get on with them at all - I found them restrictive in altering the position of my grip for comfort. I put cheap Aliexpress silicone spongy grips on the Crazy bar and I like them so much that I've put them on my utility bike and on my partner's wheelchair too. There is some butterfly bar foam grip on the horns.

These photos aren't the best illustration of the two bars but I hope they are useful:

Moloko: Crazy:

I always take time to compose and make clear both my text and my illustrative photographs.

Then, two years or whatever down the line, when I come across the post again, I struggle to make sense of the text and wonder why I took such a bad photo.

I have a Tern folder (C7 Link iirc) and tried marking the seatpost but the mark kept wearing off. I find that I can get the saddle height right with the following method - but before I describe, I will add the caveat that I am left handed/footed etc. and that it probably works with different combos of "side".

I stand on the left of the bike , reach over and place my right hand index finger pad on the right hand crank dustcap, and raise the saddle with my left hand until the saddle is snuggly in my right armpit. Fine adjustment can easily be had after a few goes when you should get a "feel for it". My justification for this method is that the armpit to fingertip length is more or less right for most riders and that beyond that, fine adjustment to accommodate most riders will be easily distinguished by the feel of the fit into the armpit so that, after a few practise goes, you will pretty much be able to get the saddle height to within less than 5mm variance.

. . . and I've just found this - Domain tape:

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/126593147488

I had a quick search and found this - not sure if it's suitable:

https://www.amazon.co.uk/AMIJOUX-Self-f ... B09P57GWJN

Brucey wrote: ↑27 Jul 2024, 2:20pm please see my post 'how to SG'

viewtopic.php?p=1806470

When pondering what SG (in context) could stand for, I did consider spinning grinding and smoothing grinding but I didn't imagine this methodology.

I'm presuming that the drill is mounted/held somehow, leaving two hands free for the angle grinder

Speaking as someone who struggles to cut or drill anything accurately or straight, I think I will leave this until I am absolutely desperate - I suspect I will never use it. Nice to know, though.

What is the "SG method"?

I ride on plenty of single track lanes with high banks/hedges, some much narrower than others. Some have verges and many have nasty drops hidden in the verges.

I've not noticed verge-aversement as such but I have noticed a growing trend for motorists to leave a wider margin near-side than offside (where the road is wide enough, including where there is a lane each way).

On the little lanes, my experience is a mixed bag: sometimes I will come home joyously singing the merits of the lovely, polite drivers I have encountered; other times, I will come home an excited wreck, complaining about all the drivers out to kill me.

I'm happy to report that it is more the former than the latter - though the closer I am to built-up areas, the more I feel threatened by the behaviour of drivers.

Mostly, drivers I encounter on the narrow lanes are good - they slow or stop and pull over if they can; I have even had some drivers reverse to get to a passing place or widening, to let me pass comfortably. I will also pull over an push myself against the bank/hedge to let them get past. These lanes are known to have walkers and horse riders on them.

If a driver is not playing nicely, I usually get to as near to the middle of the road as possible (sometimes the ridge of mud/grass/gravel in the middle of the road gets in the way), forcing a head-on if they don't pull over, where they (we) have to stop before we can negotiate and perform a pass. When the driver is oncoming, I am more likely to get an amicable outcome. When the driver is approaching from behind, I get some silly passes where there isn't room without the driver hitting the verge hard - and sometimes they do.

When the road is two lanes/cars wide, that's when I tend to get the worst behaviour whether they're approaching from behind or in front - the bad ones like to drive in the middle and they don't like to slow down, even if there's a blind bend or another vehicle oncoming.

I generally try to take a primary position when a driver is behind me and take the earliest opportunity to safely pull in and let them pass. It is annoying and depressing when they go for it and take me close/fast etc. before I get the chance to pull over. It is heart-warming when they patiently wait until I pull over then give me a wave/honk/flash of lights as they pass.

Good find

I missed this thread first time around

Lovely workmanship, Mick F - I would have made a real pig's ear of it if I had tried.

Luckily, I don't need to as I also have an adaptor; mine came with a Halfords branded multitool circa 1997 - also sold elsewhere as the IceToolz 20 Function Multi Tool (no longer available, I believe).

I had that model too - it came with my 2nd hand utility bike. I found it to be a good light albeit the beam a little on the narrow side. It's the only rechargeable light that I've ever had and I found it challenging to ensure it had enough charge for the commute without getting into a routine of charging it up after/before every use (I have otherwise been using dynamo lights for several years). I have used it in the rain with no issues.

I converted the utility bike to hub dynamo lighting and bought a cheap 45 lux StVZO light off Amazon. It does seem considerably brighter and with a wider beam. I have had experience of other StVZO lamps (30 lux battery powered and 80 lux dynamo powered) and if anything, I reckon the Lidl light is correctly reported as 40 lux but my dynamo 45 lux light burns on the "bright" side. I do reiterate that the Lidl light is a good light - the only time I noticed the narrow beam was when cycling off-road with no other lighting - specifically through a graveyard with lots of tight turns around the tombstones and a park area with a mixture of path surfaces - decking through the trees, macadam and tarmac, as well as a bit of grass and gravel.

Cyclothesist wrote: ↑18 Jul 2024, 6:38pm While at least 3 contributers have cast doubt on the benefit of day running lights I think that depends on the context. In town with lots of traffic I suspect day running lights are least effective. However out on the open road especially smaller country roads where drivers may be traveling fast day running lights make you stand out from a distance particularly in day flash mode.
At night you need good lights in steady mode. An oft underestimated and mandatory safety feature for road night riding is the orange pedal reflector. They really standout in headlights with the sinusoidal movement screaming "BIKE'.

In my experience, the only time that daytime lights make any real-world positive difference is when they're constant not blinking and in my rear view mirror, whether they be on bikes, scooters, cars or trucks - they make it much easier to tell in that wide angle little mirror that the vehicle is "active" not parked and whether it's facing to me or from me.

I always ride at night with the full mandatory legal requirement of reflectors and my tyres have reflective sidewalls. Bags and clothing may also have reflective surfaces.

If the OP is truly concerned of drivers saying "sorry mate I never saw you", then, for night time riding, he should ensure that he has the mandatory legally required full set of reflectors, including front and rear facing pedal reflectors. imho SMIDSY is never an excuse but a court could consider it to be so without the mandatory reflectors and lights.