BeeKeeper wrote:No, the E-Werk only produces DC for the electronic devices you want to charge. On my setup I take two wires from each terminal of the dynohub. One pair go to the front light and the second is the power input to the E-Werk. To get the two wires from each terminal you can get special connectors which allow a second spade connector. Something like this:
http://www.amazon.co.uk/All-Trade-Direc ... +connector However, this is the wrong size for a dynohub but you should be able to get the idea from the picture. I just couldn't find a link to the correct size quickly.
For the feed to the rear light you should find there is a second pair of wires coming out of the front light. This is where you connect the wires for the rear light.
As above, the lights are not fed from the E-Werk. Modern LED lights will often have capacitors (not batteries) in them so they can continue to produce some light output when the bike is stopped, for example at a junction. The light output at the rear is probably going to be pretty much at full strength but on the front you will probably just get a couple of small LED "sidelights" running, you only get full beam when peddling.
In my experience the dynohub will not really produce enough power output to do much charging of electronic things when you have the lights on. This shouldn't be a problem unless you plan to do a lot of night cycling. In poor weather having a front light which has a "daylight running" setting is very useful as it will take less power, give you a bit of light at the front so people can see you and still have power left over for electronic charging.
I have a standard E-Werk together with the separate cache battery and find they work fine for me but the new USB-E-Werk is a good alternative but the battery in it is there simply to ensure your electronic devices get a smooth voltage which isn't interrupted when you stop at junctions - which can upset some devices, but not by any means all. The separate cache battery is much bigger and can actually charge devices when you are stopped.
I missed your post when I replied earlier BeeKeeper, thanks very much for your help - I understand much better now. I've made some notes.
1 more question though (sorry to keep going from one question straight into another), I can visualize the way you have split your cables, but what makes 50% of power go to lights and 50% to Energy? Presumably the laws of electric?
Point noted about not enough energy for charging and lights, if the worst comes to it i'll prioritize lights, if I just disconnect the lead going to e-werk this should give me 100% to lights?
FarOeuf wrote:
I think, if I may, that that question would be better on a new thread, as this one contains lots of useful and specific dynamo info? Anyhow, depends on your personal choice (and whether you obey the letter of the law). I've always just used a Cateye LED (AAA) light on the rear. Cheap, reliable and long lasting. I don't intend to switch the rear to a dynamo-powered light, the hassle isn't worth it in my opinion. If I ride in towns, then I'm using lights to be seen. If I ride out of town/off-road then I use lights to see the path in front of me.
cheers,
Good point
Sorry again for all the question, I should have stayed on topic but I have some many things to ask
And you guys have been great in teaching me.
Is that just one AAA that your rear LED takes? How long would you say it lasts? I may do the same and keep the hub power for front. This would cut down on the wires too.
stewartpratt wrote:Nope, that's not right at all
That's for you to decide. In urban areas with street lighting, primarily the former. In rural areas, both.
For what it's worth I use a steady German asymmetric beam up front (a flashing light drives me nuts, a symmetrical torch-type beam drives other road users nuts) and another rear, both driven by dynamo. Then I have an additional 5-LED battery rear, which I use either (a) not at all because the dyno rear is generally enough, (b) strobing to catch an eye in traffic with minimal power use, or (c) flashing to catch an eye more prominently eg in mist/fog. And a pair of coin-sized Backupz lights in case of failures.
Thank you, nice setup
I'll read up on asymmetric / symmetrical beams as i'm unsure of the difference.
Would you say the life of a dynamo driven light is just as good as a battery?