Cycling UK Forum

I recently sold a Raleigh that had such a bracket, it was a steel pressing, surprisingly thin, welded/brazed to the inside of the left fork leg, sorry I did not take a photo.

Yachtmaster offshore was the one with a long offshore passage in it, out to the Azores or something, regular Yachtmaster could mostly be achieved by logging hours and miles ISTR.
Experienced ? My stabilisers were taken off over fifty years ago, I rarely fall off these days

How much ???!!!

Another amazing opportunity for even more distracted drivers, the navigation HUD is one thing, adding functions opens the floodgates.

The patches in the poundland ones are good as is the glue, though the tools are beginning to mount up as I get through a few.

I picked up a lovely well used old Cotton Carradice Nelson that had decades of dust and muck, I jetwashed it with cold water, dried in the sun it came up beautifully, especially the leather bits, I like the sodium bicarbonate method too.

The repeated issue with the motorcycle calipers (Brembo badged BMW) was white powdery corrosion in the groove behind the hydraulic seal, the only cure was to fully dismantle the caliper, hook out the seals and clean the gunge out of the grooves using the little brush on my dremel. I use those scotchbrite green pads and brake fluid to clean out the bores and pistons, if done regularly I am lucky to avoid buying any new parts, the only use I can find for WD40 seems to be cleaning the stainless steel surfaces in the kitchen, maybe if I were to buy a Delorean I would change my opinion of the stuff

On the Schrader type theres a lot more rubber in contact with the valve stem so it might be considered stronger, mind you I have seen presta valves take a lot of punishment with the tyre and tube rotating relative to the rim without apparent damage, so they cannot be that delicate.

I dont think the RRG is a particularly good corrosion inhibitor, I think it just fills the gaps and prevents moisture ingress, in conjunction with an annual strip and clean I find it okay, if left longer things will have become sticky and the overhaul is more difficult.

Tail End Charlie wrote:Engine oil mixed with diesel for me. The diesel gives it a real creeping action, I'm sure there's a scientific name for that.

Absolutely right, diesel, central heating oil, I only use ATF because I kept some used stuff after servicing an autobox for someone and read about its friction modifiers, In my garage I have a jug and half inch paintbrush, in it is a cocktail of oils and greases, I use it in my car repairs for lubricating and corrosion protection, ideal for exposed complicated mechanisms like the ride height stuff on my oleo Citroens, lash it around and it gets in, bicycles need only a tiny bit more finesse, I have some lovely pink fully synth gear oil, bet it will make really good chain lube

I use ATF and whatever solvent is handy, paraffin, paint thinner, unleaded at a push, it has worked to good effect on things like diesel glow plugs, especially applied a couple of times and allowed time to work.

Red rubber grease for me every time, my MZ 250 super 5 originally had the totally useless front drum the popular fix was to reverse the fork legs and fit a 2ls drum wheel, mine came from an old CB250 Honda, My current BMW bike seems to need regular attention to the calipers, I end up stripping them every year when ridden in winter, the sealing is minimal.

breakwellmz wrote:Silicon aerosol grease?
As you probably know it`s used for lubrication on food industry equipment as it`s inert(?)
By coincidence, i was going to overhaul the brake on the front of the MZ later today.

Your MZ has a front brake !

I never leave home without one of these
http://www.stadiumpal.com/what-works.html

If you push it with a thin implement can you get to see the other end at the next spoke hole, if so how long is it ?