Cycling UK Forum

I'm thinking of replacing my old carradice saddlebag, which although good for carrying most things for a day ride (including camera, spares, tools) seems outdated. My logic is that the rack is North-south (if that makes sense), and the bag is East-West. It tends to droop over the sides (as old saddlebags do) and occasionally my heels catch it - It would make more sense if the length of the bag was the same orientation as the rack ie. North-South. I've had a trawl at various suppliers and it seems this is how some modern bags fit (also better aeros?) and do they fit with velcro to the rack?Is that adequate?
I want it to be waterproof and about 6L -10L
Your thoughts/experience gratefully received.

Might sound a daft idea, but could you easily remove 1 wheel and take that away on your bike?(obviously locking the trailer at the nursery anyway) that might prevent even an opportunist thief bothering with removing the lock 'cos they can't easily transport the trailer!

Yes indeed Brucey. On holiday in Italy 16 years ago, whilst waiting for a bus I noticed some welded steel gates of a large house. Said gates weren't painted, and had lots of dust/general fallout ( so obviously been there some time) but weren't rusty. Just shows how much difference low humidity makes! They'd have been rusty in a week in UK.

I'm surprised they market this sort of finish. Having some experience (that's all it is, not specialist knowledge, but many years of experience) of painting particularly old car parts, I wouldn't expect this sort of finish to last. Paints need a primer of some sort (generally a sacrificial zinc-based) then an undercoat and a good top coat. I've had car alloy wheels with a clear coating which have degraded rapidly (moisture getting between the clear coat and alloy); with the coating removed and the alloy polished they have fared better. I'm not suggesting you do this with a steel frame though. I'd suggest it's asking for trouble having a clear coat frame (however can't really blame the customer if the manufacturer sells them!)

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Thinking further on this, a section of thin rubber tube put over the stem and spread a little over the top nut might work. It would need to be held in place to stop it riding back up the stem.

Or a quick fix would be to find some nice flexible rubber (thin inner tube?) and wrap and glue a thin strip around the top of the stem.


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How about some electrician's heat-shrink put in place over locknut and stem, then heat shrunk in position?

I should have thought of this before now! - Does anyone on this forum who has a Spa Cycles Steel Tourer live in Norfolk? and if so could I take a look (no need to ride).
I know it's a big county and it could be a long ride for me.... but it's closer then Harrogate!

Did they have smaller wheels though?

mig wrote:is it urban myth that 853 was developed for side impact protection in car doors?

Is it meaningful in any cycling related way if it was?

mjr wrote:Log book doesn't prove ownership, but what does?

Agreed. But certainly if someone is selling a car and either doesn't have the V5, or it's in someone else's name/address I walk away, however 'good' the deal may appear.

Have looked at their website, but they don't state what gauge they are, or whether they are butted. I suspect they are plain gauge, but can anyone confirm?

Thanks for your reply. I've looked at the Spa Cycles website again, and it looks like the same graphic is used for the titanium frame and the steel. The titanium frame has a pump peg in the photos, so I think that's the answer. Shame, I'd like a pump peg but guess I'll not dismiss the frame on such a small detail.

Probably another question for Colin (sorry!). In the frame dimension graphic of the Spa Steel Touring Frame there is clearly shown a pump retaining peg on the headtube - but this isn't shown on the photos of the frame. Does the frame have a pump peg?

I suspect the copper grease does introduce another dissimilar metal 'into the mix', however some grease is better than no grease at all where seizure is a risk.

Heat isn't always the best (although it feels good!) Sometimes an ice pack is more beneficial than heat - or alternating from ice to heat can help. The ice tends to reduce inflamation.

There is (IMHO) a better way of setting the nut inserts, rivnuts, or whatever their title. You can use a strip of steel or a washer, a 5mm set screw and 2 nuts to good effect. Just google DIY rivnut puller and the method is shown. I used this method to put 18 inserts in place on a GRP caravan in a couple of hours.