Cycling UK Forum

There's only one explanation, the OP has got fitter!

Bought from Lidl a couple of weeks ago (sorry been on holiday so unable to message) - Cavity wax aerosol with regular or tubed nozzle £4.99.
Don't know how effective compared with other products (only a controlled test would tell), but works as you would expect. My suspicion is that any mineral oil dripped in frame could be just as effective as any of these substances, but 'piece of mind' has a price

One issue with tyre pressure is that (however carefully you calculate it), most tyre pressure gauges are not accurate. To get a calibrated gauge would be VERY expensive!
Having decided on your preferred pressure, and decided it's good by riding, the best that can be achieved is to then use a gauge to measure and ALWAYS USE THE SAME GAUGE, then at least you may get consistency. Certainly with car tyres I NEVER rely on a petrol station gauge as they are notoriously inaccurate (sometimes 30% out!)

38mm diameter heatshrink (will shrink to 19mm) bought today from my local wholesale outlet ...... 500mm for £1
What a result. Tried it out on a bare bar (just to experiment) worked great using a heat gun (DIY paint removal type) - a lighter may give more accuracy (positionally) but less temperature-wise.
As long as it doesn't degrade it's ideal.

At the moment I have some self-amalgamating tape which will undergo some 'sweat testing' but ... heat shrink, now that's an idea! I'll have to see how large a diameter it's available in.

An online search is probably your friend, but if no joy then I think motorbikes use fine in a lot of cases, so a motorcycle shop may be able to help.

It is mint condition. I have a couple of sets (also new) of tacx 'sealed bearing' jockey wheels which I think will do the job for the future.
I have to say the design of the ARX (especially the cable run) appeals - so I may have answered my own question? but good to gather the views of others.

I've found a new, unused Sun Tour ARX GT in my garage, and am contemplating what to do?
I'm considering a new touring bike, and am happy to use friction levers.... what would be the advice? Use this mech (which MAY have a highish value if sold on) or use a modern mech eg Shimano Altus or similar? Which would work best/give longest service?

I think it's m8 - If you need a longer bolt than the original, then before fitting it would be a best to check it by 'mating' the threads side/side to check it is the same.

I would think the shift is done by a worm and gear - to get enough power to do the job, and for accuracy of change.

Or it could be that they do a good deal with the magazine and sell thousands all at once! - I have to say I found them to be a good item.

Here are a couple of photos of the Selev tape finishers (freebie from Cycling Weekly in the 80's?). Bare bar,as can be seen the tape fits in the gap beteen the finisher and bar - also provision for a cable outer to run out of the tape at the finisher. Shame they don't seem to be available now.
I don't think they would be suitable for the bar end (with bar end shifters) as they wouldn't give a route for the outer cable.

The tape finishers (freeby from Cycling Weekly) were made by Selev - yes I've found one! will photo tomorrow, as I've searched the internet and can't find any reference to them. From memory they are '80's produced. A nice way for finishing off may be to use 'Self Amalgamating' tape - this is special non-adhesive tape for car wiring looms, but great stuff because it doesn't get all sticky like electrical tape, and 'joins together' (like it says on the tin) - not sure how durable it would be a)in sunlight or b)daily use.

The freeby finishers were for the other end of the tape i.e. on the straight centre part of the bar - If I can find a pair I'll photo them.

Has anyone here tried a front derailleur called a 'top swing'? How does it compare to a regular front mech?