Cycling UK Forum

I hope the photos work! I think these may be front panniers - not sure... But I can't figure out how to attach them. I want to attach to my rear rack - see photo. There are no clips only one strap at bottom of each and the velcro'd together pair have two rings on each presumably for attaching at top. But if they are meant for the front perhaps this is unwise/dangerous? Does anyone have any ideas? Thanks, Steve

Photos: https://www.dropbox.com/sh/pkaslbjyfyxc ... sMm8a?dl=0

Hi, I'm looking for someone to share the house I rent in Bristol. It's located in quiet Bedminster; 10 mins cycle to the Centre. Hope it's ok to post this here. If anyone is interested it's easiest to call/txt me. Thanks, Steve

Great stuff, we're making progress. The chainset has a middle 38 tooth
ring which I thought odd. The BB is BSA (British) threaded identical to the one
shown on page 4 of the FAG info sheet I linked to. Perhaps I can estimate
it's length with a ruler. I think Sheldon Brown gave instructions on
measuring centre of down tube to middle ring and doubling it for spindle length.

Steve

I need a new bottom bracket for my circa 2000 Harry Hall - the old FAG one is creaking a bit. The chainset is a rather lovely Campag Triple but I don't know which one. Photos here: http://www.flickr.com/photos/steveparry ... otostream/ http://www.flickr.com/photos/steveparry ... hotostream http://www.flickr.com/photos/steveparry ... otostream/

The FAG catalogue is here: http://www.schaeffler.com/remotemedien/ ... _de_en.pdf But I don't know which one to order! Or how to measure up the existing one. I don't have the tool to remove it but I do have an accurate ruler and calipers. I want a cheap but decent one. Would one of these do: http://www.dotbike.com/p/9121

Steve

I tried Tektro dual calipers which were v good but swapped them back for my original Centaur duals ('05). The rear would stop a train and as I remember the front was plenty powerful.

But riding for first time in months today the front was v poor stopping... I checked and everything appears normal in terms of movement etc. I readjusted the shoes to get full contact and sanded off the shiny surface of alloy on the rubber. Both calipers and shoes have only done 200 miles or so. Can anyone suggest what the problem might be? I guess I could take them off and refit again.

Steve

I bought a rather nice Italian framed audax bike recently. It originally came from Ricci of Cornwall I believe. Its a steel Columbus (SL I think) frame. The size is 56cm. I was told that Italian frames are measured to the centre of seat tube and British to the top of seat tube. Is this true? I ask because I used to have a Raleigh Triathlon 21.5 inch bike and this was a perfect size. The Ricci may be a bit big but I'm persevering with tweaking seat/bar combos. I emailed Ricci with photos asking for details of the frame, tubing material etc but no resopnse. See photos below.

Does anyone know anything about these frames? The downtube is triangular as opposed to round in section. I has proper threaded holes for lights on each fork. I guess they're generic Italian steel rebadged by the shop? To cut to the chase I'm thinking about carbon forks with mudguard eyes to lighten the weight a bit. It has a Chorus threaded headset on a quill adapter. What measurements should I use for speccing a fork? I guess I need a 1" threaded one? But I'm not sure about the steerer length.

Steve

Thanks for all your help. Think I'll take it to the local shop who can also fit a new cassette while their at it. Can do without buying four tools inc a chain whip and cassette extractor as well at the moment!

Steve

I recently bought a bike which had been built up from a new steel Italian frame from Ricci cycles in Cornwall. The bike had done only a few miles. Today I was riding when the cranks locked solid. The back wheel continues to roll forward no problem but it won't turn backwards of course. On looking at the crank area I see the bottom bracket has unscrewed itself several turns... I guess this caused the locking. See photos. How do I repair this?

I'm guessing I'll have to do it like this: 1 Undo the crank bolt (Centaur) with my 8mm allen key - hope this hasn't locked too. 2 Then I'll have to buy a crank extractor to take it off completely. 3 Buy a b bracket tool to screw it in again? Would this be right? I presume it unscrewed itself because the original DIYer didn't torque it up properly? Or perhaps, because its an Italian threaded Veloce bracket with a right-hand thread, it came loose because he didn't put some kind of loctite on the threads? Campag say that frames should have a drainage hole when using their brackets. I don't see one on this frame is this a problem?Any help appreciated. Steve

I'm seeking two pairs; for my Shimano 105 & 600 aero pedals. Used to have red nylon toe clips on my Raleigh Triathlon in the 90s. Prefer nylon clips and straps.
Does anyone know where I might buy such things? Thanks, Steve

Hi, I've got a Centaur 11-23 cassette on a new bike that's too high gearing for me.. I want to change to a 13-26 cassette. I understand the lockring on the 11-23 won't fit the lower range cassette... Will I need to buy one of these as well as a new cassette? I've been looking online for such a lockring and it seems no-one sells them! How are you supposed to obtain one if they are required with a new cassette? Anyone have a barely used 13-26 cassette (Veloce/Centaur) with lockring for sale?

Steve