Cycling UK Forum

Hi again,

Actually further to the above I may have just made some progress.

I found a Nexus manual and looked at the diagram on page 16 of this manual:-

http://si.shimano.com/pdfs/dm/DM-SG0003-05-ENG.pdf

What I've then done is put the bit of plastic with the word "Lock" written on it (the cassette joint mounting ring?) and lined up yellow dots and then I turned it clockwise so that the bit with the word "Lock" on it rotated around as far as the arm of the cassette joint.

I don't know whether I've got this bit right or not but fingers crossed I have.

Thanks again,

John

Hi All,

After many family things stopping any chance of working on my bike I've got back to it today trying to finally get it back on the road in time for the clocks to change.

However when I've tried to get the Alfine cassette joint back together I'm not sure if I'm doing things right. Now when I took the wheel off and the hub etc. a few weeks ago now when I took the cassette joint off the hub I laid everything out in order and put it back on in the same order. However (and I don't know if somehow I made a mistake) I'm struggling when I'm trying to put it all back together.

I'll add some photos below to try and show what I'm attempting to explain.

Now there are red dots/ markers on the cassette joint and I've done it so that all of these are lined up.

Then there's a plastic bit to go on and it's got the word "Lock" written on it. It has squared off bits on the underside and I seem to be able to put this on but where there is the word "Lock" there is a directional arrow which indicates to me that you turn it in that direction and it should lock everything together. However thus far however I've tried to put this on that doesn't happen and you could just lift it all apart.

Therefore I'm sure that I'm doing something wrong but I'm just not sure what?

Also (and admittedly this is a step beyond where I am right now but) unfortunately I literally can't remember what gear the IGH was in when I first started taking the bike apart. Will this have an impact when putting it back together? For example I'm not sure where to position the bar end shifter?

Thanks again for all of your help & advice because as ably demonstrated by my umpteenth conundrum today I am pretty clueless when it comes to technical stuff but I am trying my best.

Cheers,

John

Hi Brucey,

Many thanks for your message above which is very helpful and much appreciated!

I'll get onto looking up and ordering that tool so I can then get on with this.

Thank you!

John

Hi All,

I spotted this post from westview and please accept my apologies for adding my own question into but this message/thread is very useful and it got me thinking about my own pedals which at least looks wise are similar although I don’t know whether the construction accessibility etc. are the same or not. However given that I was thinking along the same lines of asking the question that westview has already there didn’t seem too much point in starting a new post.

I have the Shimano PD-T420 pedals on my bike and at the present time I’ve taken this bike to bits over the summer for cleaning/maintenance and I’m currently in the process of putting it all back together. I’ve been focused on other issues such as the IGH and the gear change cable but I’m getting close to finishing those jobs and fingers crossed if I get those finished without trouble it’ll just be the finishing touches of doing things like putting the mudguards and pedals back on.

These are the pedals
http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/shimano-pd-t420-click-r-clipless-mtb-pedals/rp-prod108681
https://bike.shimano.com/en-EU/product/component/alivio-t4000/PD-T420.html

Anyway having digressed the pedals are currently off the cranks and I’ve given them a clean but I haven’t done anymore than that. I will give the bindings a spray with lube before I refit them but would the other advice above for the M324 pedals pretty much apply for the PD-T420 pedals as well? For example would I need a TL-PD33 but tool TL-PD63 to access the bearings?

Thanks for your advice!

John

Hi Brucey,

Many thanks for the message and I love the ingenuity and DIY solution to not having the Shimano tool (TL-CJ40) by using a reflective gizmo and it's a shame that non of them were the correct length.

Thanks for the photo above and yes that ferrule does look much more substantial than the many plastic substitutes. Out of interest I did try googling "Shimano Alfine Gear Cable" to see if a specific Shimano replacement exists which would include this ferrule but on a brief search I didn't turn one up. Therefore over the weekend I'll try to finish the job using the metal end cap that i have from the Jagwire kit and fingers crossed that does the job.

Thanks again!

John

Hi Brucey,

Thanks once again for all of your tips and advice on all of the details because the help is invaluable as I try to get my bike back on the road again!

I'll get to work as soon as I can although mist likely it'll be at the weekend that I get a chance to tackle it.

Fingers crossed I can get to a bike with a working Alfine hub.

Thank you!

John

Hi Brucey,

Many thanks for your message which is really helpful and much appreciated!

I've got the CJ-8S20 cassette joint and I'll get to work as soon as I can.

I don't have the Shimano Tool to check the length of the cable and to be able to set distance between the end cap and the bolt at 101mm and so for now I'll have to see how I get on using either a tape measure or a ruler but if it proves too difficult to get it right maybe I'll have to buy the Shimano Tool TL-CJ40 to help me. I did search to try and find it for sale in the UK and thought that maybe somewhere like SJS would sell it but so far I've drawn a blank but you can buy to from German sites such as this one:-

https://www.bike-discount.de/en/buy/shimano-tl-cj40-inner-cable-fixing-bolt-setting-tool-for-gear-hub-581129

Also I don't own a third hand tool and so I'm wondering if I'm going to find this a tricky job to do and maybe I need to invest in a third hand tool.

Regarding the cable I like the idea of getting one with a welded end because I'm sure that would have made the job of threading it through easier and hopefully would have stopped the cable fraying as I tried to thread and push it through. I did think that all the cable trimming should be done after the cable is threaded through all of the housings and bolts etc but a strand had unwound itself so much it was impossible to get the cable to go through any of the outer cable or end caps without cutting it. I was a bit frustrated at the time because I was aware that I shouldn't be putting it but at the time I couldn't quickly think of another way to get the cable threaded through the housing but I'll keep the superglue trick in mind for next time and so thanks for the tip.

Just out of interest the cable that I bought had end bits at both ends of the cable and one was marked "JC" and the other just "C". I wasn't sure which one to cut of and which one to leave and so I looked the the end bit that came out of the bar end shifter on the old cable being replaced and the seemed closer in space to the end marked "JC" and so I kept that end on and cut the other end of but I've no idea whether I made the right choice or not.

Ferrule / End caps-
Following your message that it's vitally important that I use the correct ferrule at the cassette joint end this bit has me a bit worried. Before reading your message I'd used one of the end caps that came with the Jagwire Universal Sport Shift Kit. Basically the kit came with several of what they've listed as "Sealed End Caps" and then just one "Hooded End Cap". I decided to use the "Hooded End Cap" because the instructions that came with the kit say that the hooded end cap offers the best protection against the elements & corrosion and so I thought that sounded like a good idea for the cable end cap next to the drivetrain and cassette joint where it's going to get exposed to the elements.

However reading your message I'm now wondering if I should take this Jagwire hooded end cap off the cable and instead use the original end cap that came with my bike. But I've looked at the end cap that is currently on my bike (a 2014 Genesis Day One) and the old end cap that I've just removed is plastic. Now I've absolutely no idea if this is the original end cap or not because the bike has at various times been to about three different LBS when I've had shifting problems and so now I have absolutely no idea whether this was the original end cap that fitted into the end of the cassette joint or a replacement fitted by a LBS.

It has me thinking though that given the choice of the two end caps that I have with one being a plastic one that I've just taken off the bike and the other being the new hooded end cap which is metal & came with the cable kit which one should I use. Feeling the two in comparison to one another to me the new Jagwire metal end cap feels sturdier and seems to be a reasonable fit in the cassette joint and so maybe I should go for that.

I've attached a photo below which shows the old plastic end cap next to a new Jagwire one but I took a photo of the Jagwire standard end cap instead of the hooded version because I couldn't get a good photo of the hooded version whist it's currently on the cable on the bike. However I've also included a photo of the Jagwire box which also show the hooded version of the end cap if the photo comes out large enough.

Also my apologies if this is a very basic/stupid question but when you say having the barrel adjuster fully wound in do you mean so that it is at it's shortest? I just wound it up and down and unless I've just forgotten which way I was winding it (but it is late after a day at work) when I was winding it anti-clockwise it was being would in and the barrel was getting shorter and if I wound it clockwise the barrel would get longer and it was being wound out?

Thanks again for all of the help & advice which is greatly appreciated!

John

Hi All,

Further to the above unfortunately getting this bike back on the road has been slow going because further to the above it took me a while to get to servicing the hub.

The reason being is that I don't have a bench vice at home and so I had to wait for the chance to go to my brother-in-laws house to use one.

Anyway I worked on the hub last weekend and in curiosity I actually ended up removing the hub from the hub shell just to check its condition. I just wanted to make sure that it didn't appear as if there had been a lot of moisture ingress or any corrosion. Fortunately it didn't look too bad inside and the hub is now back in the hub shell in the wheel and hopefully ready to go for winter.

Therefore I now have to work on completing the other tasks to rebuild the bike and one of these jobs is replacing the previous gear shift cable.

I worked on this yesterday and the cable that I removed did have some corrosion that you could see on the inner wire at the top of a section where it met a barrel adjuster at the front of the bike.

I've replaced the inner and outer cable with a new Jagwire gear shift cable. This was a bit tricky (for me anyway) because this was the first time I've replaced a gear cable and so there's every chance that I was using the wrong technique and approaching this in the wrong way. However I found that threading the cable through the bar end shifter pretty tough and when it went through it had frayed the end of the cable. I then had to cut off the frayed end to get it into the outer but I again had problems getting the cable through the last end cap (close to the sprocket / gear selector) end when it had got frayed again as I tried to get it through the end cap. Anyway finally I got it through and fingers crossed I have enough undamaged/un-frayed cable left at the end because the cable was pretty long.

Anyway this brings me to a question as follows.

The point I got to yesterday, before having to stop for a family members birthday celebrations, was putting the nut/bolt onto the cable which is the nut which slots into the gear selector part of the Alfine hub.

Now I already have some advice above, including for example the link in the post from Alexnharvey, which gives me details on how to fine tune the gear shift. However at this stage I'm wondering how to figure out my basic starting point of where on the gear shift cable I should try to secure the nut so that it's in the right place to then be slotted on the gear selector bit of the hub?

Thanks again for all of your help & advice which is much appreciated!

John

Hi Thorneyone,

When I read this in addition to the ideas/options already mentioned above the Deuter Rack Top Bag popped into my mind as a potential bag option to consider.

https://aushiker.com/dueter-rack-top-pack/

However when I search for it on sale i’m now struggling to find it and so I wonder if Deuter have now discontinued it. But if it is of interest some shops might still have on in stock.

Good luck finding the right bag for you. This post has also given me a good chuckle due to the image of the cat on the bag.

John

Many thanks Brucey.

Your help is much appreciated!

John

Hi All,

Further to the kind advice sent by everyone above about carrying out maintenance on my Alfine IGH hub can I just ask one question.

Also sorry if it doesn't make much sense with the big gap between the previous post and now but unfortunately I recently had an accident coming off my bike on loose gravel which resulted in a very sore hip and a fractured bone in my pelvis. Therefore any form of cycling or bike maintenance has been out of the question for a while and it's only in the last week or so that I can think about getting back to some jobs. I dipped my toe in the water last weekend doing some maintenance on my daughters bike and now I'm ready to start getting back to mine.

Anyway back to the point of my post and in the message from Brucey recommending that I try refreshing the grease with oil. In the message he says:-

"d) add about 25-40cc of gear oil"

With respect to the type of oil that I should use is this referring to car gearbox oil as opposed to any bicycle specific oil/grease etc.?

For example something such as this:-

https://www.halfords.com/motoring/engine-oils-fluids/gearbox-oil/halfords-gear-oil-ep-80w-90-gl-4-1l

Thanks again for the continued help!

John

Hi Brucey,

That's great and many thanks for your advice which is much appreciated!

I've now put the bearing cages and axle back in the hub and I've installed the rear wheel so this job on the bike is done thanks to your advice.

Also thanks for your message about healing soon with is very nice of you. I came off my bike on loose gravel coming down hard on mu hip injuring the hip as well as fracturing a bone in my pelvis which was really painful. As a result I'm currently on an enforced absence from cycling which is very frustrating but I've just got to be patient waiting for the bone to heal itself.

Thanks again!

John

Hi again,

Firstly my apologies to anyone who was really quick to read my original post because I had to edit it because I realised that the description of which way around the bearing was didn't match the photo. Anyway I think that I've corrected that now.

This photo should show the second option of having the bearing cage so that the open side of the bearing cage showing the balls is on the outermost side closest to the axle nut so that the side of the cage that is closed side is facing inwards to the frame wheel.

Thanks again in advance to anyone who can offer any advice which will be greatly appreciated!

Cheers,

John

Hi All,

Recently we bought, in haste, a secondhand childs Cnoc Islabike for our daughter. Basically our daughter get pinching her brother's bike to use, much to his displeasure, and we were going away on a camping holiday when my daughter would have the chance to practice her new found riding skills so a bike was needed.

There was a secondhand Islabike for sale on out doorstep and so with a need for a bike there and then we bought it more in haste with the need for a bike straight away. However stupidly we didn't really check it over thoroughly (partly due to me being in pain whilst partially immobilised and on crutches following an accident but that's a story for another day). Anyway having bought the bike now that I'm more mobile I've been able to check things more thoroughly and the brakes need some attention and there's something up with the hub which isn't running smoothly at all.

Therefore this afternoon I've removed the rear wheel to see what is going on because part of me wondered if for example the rear axle was broken. Anyway the axle isn't broken but the grease on the bearings was very dirty and dried or gummed up. This is reference to the grease on the bearings around the axle/hub itself not the single speed freewheel because I don't actually have the necessary tool to remove the freewheel.

Anyway the bearings are contained in a sort of cage which is enclosed on one side. Stupidly I forgot to take a photo of which way around the cage goes when reinstalling the bearings and I just can't remember which way around they went.

Therefore once I've re-greased the bearings I'll be grateful if anyone can tell me which way around the bearing cage should go.

I've attached some photos below showing the bearing balls in their cage. Then the first photo in this post shows the axle with the drive side nut still in place and the first option of putting the bearing cage on so that the open side of the cage points to the inside of the bike frame on the side and the closed side of the cage is facing outwards closest to the axle nuts and the freewheel.

And in the second post I'll put a photo of the alternative option of having the bearing cage so that the open side of the bearing cage showing the balls is on the outermost side closest to the axle nut so that the side of the cage that is closed is facing inwards to the frame wheel.

Sorry if this is a silly question and many thanks to anyone who can help because your help will be much appreciated as I try to reassemble the hub / rear wheel.

Thank you,

John

Hi steady eddy,

Following on from the messages above regarding people building step through frames I was going to mention Beaumont Bicycles but then I saw that Tao has already mentioned them.

Another one to consider might be Temple Cycles ( https://www.templecycles.co.uk/ ) because I think that they do some step through frames.

John