Cycling UK Forum

Keezx

For what it's worth , I own 5 square taper cranksets (Campagnolo) and 1 external BB (SRAM Force GXP) and the SRAM is the most untrue.
Does'nt give any annoying chain rub, so I ignore it.

Keezx

The foldable Minoura is all you'll ever need, IF you need one.

Keezx

3 Years ago I bought a used SRAM GXP crankset with an also used GXP BB.
After 3 seasons (> 15000 km) mostly ridden in dry circumstances it's still running fine.

Keezx

Nothing.

Keezx

When it needs to be cheap I prefer Miche Primato, followed by Novatec Standard and for the cup+cone lovers Shimano 105.

Keezx

531colin wrote:CUT
As a 70 year old man whose cycling is purely recreational, I'm surprised by how much difference it makes to have a laterally stiff frame. Theres no winding it up over three or four pedal strokes, one push on the pedal and its off. I think some of this is a function of how you ride. I set my bikes up so that even when freewheeling I have very little weight on my hands......it follows that to push even a bit harder, I'm "working the bars"....pulling back on the bars to counteract Newton's "equal and opposite" reaction to the force I'm putting on the pedals. However, if I had more weight on my hands to begin with, I would need to be pushing much harder before I needed to "work the bars", and before I felt any difference from lateral stiffness.
Also I hate to see the chainstay squashed to fit between the chainwheel and the back tyre.....come on guys, all you have to do is bend the stay accurately and you can "thread the needle" and fit the un-squashed width of the stay in there, and then the chainside stay is as stiff as the other one.

Must indeed be the way you ride/ have set up your bikes
I'm 65 and still riding competitive with my either not stiff titanium China made frame or a very stiff aluminium frame and feel absolutely no difference in "performance "whatsoever.
I'm sitting rather forward and stretched on my bikes.
I'also pretty sure there is no significant power/energy loss by lateral elastic bending of frame or frame parts.

Keezx

I've used the BBB extender for a couple of years without any problem, one extra advantage is you can change the bar height easy like the old days quill stems...

Keezx

I'm riding 23 mm tyres on 17C and 19C rims for years now, no problems whatsoever.
Tyres become wider with more volume and pressure can be lowered, the only disadvantage could be in the limitations of the frame.
Mavic is very conservative about rim and tyre width,. but the new Open Pro is 19C, so what tyre should we ride on them.....
Here some recommendations from the Yankees, not limited by ETRTO standards...they make really sense IMO, see lower half of the article.
https://intheknowcycling.com/2016/04/03 ... eel-sizes/

Keezx

Exactly, an important point, and more important than which calculator (not much difference anyway).
Just ansered a phone call from a buddy who ordered Chinese rims and already found out after 5 minutes that his spokes were 20 mm too short.
The specified ERD was 20 mm shorter than the actual.....

Keezx

The reason for that is that weight is a simple number , easy to check fot anyone with a scale.
All the other and for the most part far more important/interesting properties are not so simple to quantify....
Once on the bike it's where the human "software" takes over and fills the forums on the Net.

PS, I own 2 roadbikes, one alloy Gianni Motta with a really light alloy frame (1200 gr.) and a titanium one app. 400 gr. heavier, still the titanium one "feels" lighter when riding it, all the other parts and wheels are comparable.

Keezx

tatanab wrote:You need a Chorus or Record triple (111) bottom bracket. Not a Centaur or Veloce etc. The Chorus and Record are asymmetrical whereas the others are symmetrical. Those are the descriptions from the Campag bottom bracket fitting instructions I have.

Campagnolo can tell what they want , I do what I want.
I've used a Centaur 111 mm for years on my Chorus triple crankset, troublefree and after checking with a Record 111 mm triple BB it turned out that the chainline was amost equal.
I wouldn't bother finding a Chorus/Record one, they are more expensive and the Centaur is of similar construction with 3 replacable cartridge bearings.
The difference in chainline is app. 1,5 mm and even better on the Centaur (to the center), the only problem you could possibly have is a frame with a fat seat tube (> 34 mm) which can limit the front mech to the inside.
Left Record 111 mm, right Centaur 111 mm .

Keezx

Stan's Alpha 340 rims , which have a similar shallow hook, are notorious for blowing off tubed tyres, for what it's worth...

Keezx

You must look like a chimpansee....

Keezx

The last sentence is so very true....
I tend to forget that I'm 65 with 45 years expierience and know what I want.

Keezx

I'm very much aware of the seat angle (which is is good for many people) and the fact that it shortens the actual reach.
Makes the reach of the 52 cm model more/less equal to a frame with 55 cm top tube and more normal 73,5 degree seat angle.
55 cm is stlll pretty long for a 52 cm frame with 115 head tube....
I have to accept and respect the design choices, but I think i will put off a lot of potential buyers...

Cycling UK Forum

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