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by DavidH
12 Feb 2015, 1:08pm
Forum: Bikes & Bits – Technical section
Topic: Rebuilding a 70s road bike
Replies: 41
Views: 3538

Re: Rebuilding a 70s road bike

Thanks to those who helped me work out what to do, the work is now completed and everything appears to be going very smoothly. The rear wheel has the original 5 gears screwed on and fortunately the wheel slots into the frame (without too much stretching required) quite nicely, no need to respace and dish the wheel thankfully! New brake cables and pads are working brilliantly, even on the suicides. Here's a couple of pictures in case you'd like to see the finished product.

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I know it's only a cheap rear hub but runs much smoother than the old one so the bike feels smoother and easier to ride. Very happy with the results! And for those who thought I was nuts spending money on an old bike, I kept the price of everything down. All I bought in the end was a new rear wheel (chosen to look similar-ish to the front) and a new brake cable. Oh and new tires of course!

I did also re-wrap the bars with new tape, much nicer stuff than before and having done it twice now I did a much better job!
by DavidH
30 Jan 2015, 10:26pm
Forum: Bikes & Bits – Technical section
Topic: Rebuilding a 70s road bike
Replies: 41
Views: 3538

Re: Rebuilding a 70s road bike

Yes you are right, open pro is not suited at all, especially given the extra detail you just described, I hadn't considered that. I only considered it because I had a front one lying around and thought a matching pair would be best. I have been persuaded otherwise and ordered a basic rear wheel I can screw the current gears to. Also it's got a black inside to the rim so it will at least look similar to the mavic which keeps me happy enough with the aesthetics!

Could you give me advice on what saddle I should look for (if any) to replace the current one? I am more than happy to buy one if it really is terrible but so far have had no information beyond simply being told it's not good.
by DavidH
30 Jan 2015, 1:30pm
Forum: Bikes & Bits – Technical section
Topic: Rebuilding a 70s road bike
Replies: 41
Views: 3538

Re: Rebuilding a 70s road bike

willcee wrote:interesting contris, personally imv you are stark staring bonkers...


I'm not sure I understand your problem with what I'm doing. I am not completely new to bikes, but my experience is with downhill mountain bikes not 70s road bikes. That's why I came here to ask for advice. I am not looking to buy a new bike as she really likes this one and a new bike worth buying won't be as cheap as a new back wheel. It will also be much more likely to be stolen, and way better than she needs for getting about town. Having discussed the brakes and gears with the 'old hands' here I am happy that they are working fine and won't need replacing. Even if they do, remember that I have parts from my Carlton that I am happy to use on this (like brakes, levers and front wheel) and a friction gear system is not expensive to replace. Currently the only thing I am actually buying is the back wheel, something I need advice for because I am not familiar with old standards.

Finally, if I was to give up on this bike (that has cost me less than £100 so far) and get one of your suggested frames for £100 how am I in a better position?
by DavidH
30 Jan 2015, 1:13pm
Forum: Bikes & Bits – Technical section
Topic: Rebuilding a 70s road bike
Replies: 41
Views: 3538

Re: Rebuilding a 70s road bike

531colin wrote:Measure the distance between the dropouts. If its 126mm (one of the old standards) then a new 130mm machine built wheel will "spring" in fine.
(I would question the wisdom of a hand-built Open Pro wheel on a student bike....get the lass a decent saddle first...... :wink: )


I know the open pro is overkill, I'm just very anal about aesthetics and having two different rims would really disappoint me! But I may concede and get a cheaper rear wheel. The distance is about 122mm oddly, but just pulling them apart you can easily get it wider than 130mm so I think that's my best option.

What is wrong with the saddle? I showed her this thread and she says she finds it very comfortable and doesn't understand why people are bringing it up. I'll happily buy her one but need to know why to persuade her to give up the current one first!
by DavidH
29 Jan 2015, 7:00pm
Forum: Bikes & Bits – Technical section
Topic: Rebuilding a 70s road bike
Replies: 41
Views: 3538

Re: Rebuilding a 70s road bike

Small update, the hub is too worn to build a new wheel around according to the bike shop. Also, the current back wheel is actually 125mm, my attempt to measure with a ruler clearly wasn't very accurate! So the question is, do I try and find a better condition old hub like mine or build a new wheel around a cheap screw on hub? Which is the sensible option? I'm not even sure where to start looking for second hand old hubs!
by DavidH
29 Jan 2015, 3:57pm
Forum: Bikes & Bits – Technical section
Topic: Rebuilding a 70s road bike
Replies: 41
Views: 3538

Re: Rebuilding a 70s road bike

Brucey wrote:If you want to give the CP's a proper chance, fit new cables, decent brake blocks, and perhaps move the brake levers higher up on the bars which will give a better result with the suicide levers (provided you don't go too far such that the lever hits the handlebar).

Re the gears/wheel build; if you want to stick with a 120mm back end (you could spread it to 126 or 130 if you wanted) then it pretty much has to be a screw-on freewheel (unless you can find an early model cassette hub) in which case there are lots of very cheap hubs out there which will do the trick for you. Your present freewheel is old but it does not look badly worn. An open pro is overkill for this kind of bike; I'd suggest a rigida chrina as being pretty close and less than half the cost.


I went to my local bike shop today and they suggested building a new wheel around the old hub, do you think that's a good idea? It would keep things simple as I see it, no need to change the derailleur and friction shifter, no need to spread the back end and she keeps the gears she is already happy with. (Being a town bike they are hardly necessary at all, I prefer a single speed for Oxford myself.)

I'll certainly change the cables, the front is awful but I had trouble getting it out of the lever mechanism last time I tried. I seem to remember doing the back cable a month or so ago. What would you suggest were 'decent' blocks?

Edit: I forgot to say, I know the open pros are overkill but I want the wheels to match each other and I don't mind spending the extra for that.
by DavidH
29 Jan 2015, 1:57pm
Forum: Bikes & Bits – Technical section
Topic: Rebuilding a 70s road bike
Replies: 41
Views: 3538

Re: Rebuilding a 70s road bike

karlt wrote:Follow the link...


Oh I see! Very useful, I'll check that out when I'm next with the bike. Thanks!
by DavidH
29 Jan 2015, 12:45pm
Forum: Bikes & Bits – Technical section
Topic: Rebuilding a 70s road bike
Replies: 41
Views: 3538

Re: Rebuilding a 70s road bike

I've successfully fitted the front wheel and the current brakes look absolutely fine with them. However, the levers themselves aren't amazing so I may still consider swapping over my shimano levers and side-pulls from the Carlton.

I've had a play with the gears and there's no slipping, I think they're working fine since I looked at them previously. Very smooth operation! I have some pictures of the derailleur and gears. Can anybody direct me to the best rear wheel build for a 5-speed 120mm wheel with a Mavic open pro rim? Is it possible to use the gears already on there?

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karlt wrote:You can buy a conversion bolt for recessed nut brakes. It replaces the very short bolt ...


I'll look into this, not completely sure I know what you mean yet!

mjr wrote:Ask me after I next ride a steel-wheeled bike in the rain with them on! ;-) ...


I'd be interested to know how you find them if you do try them in the rain!

531colin wrote:For wet weather braking on steel rims, I had more success grinding the chrome off and using soft pads (for alloy) than with leather-faced pads on chrome. (This was for a tandem....in the end, I built a front hub off a Honda 50 into the front wheel....it stopped then.)
If this bike is to be parked in the sort of place where attempted theft resulted in a wrecked renovated (Carlton?) bike, then it makes sense to put as few new components on as possible.
I would have thought that a bike recycling place would have plenty of friction downtube levers.


I was wondering whether sanding them down would help. Would the roughened surface chew through brake pads really fast though? I assume there'd be nasty corrosion too over time?

Her bike is parked in a private and secure location overnight, mine wasn't (just that one night!) so hopefully it will be fine. That said, I am trying to limit the amount of new parts I use because Oxford is terrible for theft and damage. As I said above, I think the friction gearing is actually fine. I'll keep testing it to see if it deteriorates.
by DavidH
29 Jan 2015, 10:03am
Forum: Bikes & Bits – Technical section
Topic: Rebuilding a 70s road bike
Replies: 41
Views: 3538

Re: Rebuilding a 70s road bike

Wow, lots of great replies. Really appreciate the input from everybody. I'll try and address everything that's been said so far, and sorry for the delay in replying, I'm not feeling too well at the moment!

531colin wrote:Sorry, but it isn't any of those things except old. If your GF has been riding it with the saddle at that height, it isn't even near the right size for her, with the bars much lower than the saddle she is never likely to be comfortable or safe.
You seem to be looking to "rescue" an old bike that you feel attached to, without spending too much.....there are 2 problems with this, firstly I don't see any reference to what your GF might want, and secondly I don't think you have the skills or tools to do the job,,,,what will you do if the stem or bottom bracket are corroded into the frame? If you start paying somebody to do the job, it gets expensive.
If there was even the faintest possibility that my woman might ride with me, I would be searching for the exact bike she needs and wants, not trying to bodge something up just because it happened to be knocking around.
Modern "aero" brake levers have the wrong cable pull for your old centrepulls, they are optimised for dual pivot sidepulls.
What is "slipping" with the gearing? "Friction" gearing requires the rider to put the lever in the right position. If this isn't done, you will get ghost shifting. If the lever is simply being pulled round by the spring, you only need to tighten the friction nut in the middle of the lever.

Edit...most towns have some sort of charitable/volunteer bike repair/recycling thing going on. The sort of place where you might be able to use tools, get help and information.....and maybe a more promising bike to start from.


Fair points but you don't quite have me all worked out. If you'd like to question my motives and the ethics behind the bike I'll happily expand that side of things. We're both students at Oxford where bikes are essential for short every day commutes of no longer than 15 minutes. She has a very good mountain bike at home that she uses off road but didn't want to risk it being stolen here. She was in her first year still last year and hadn't yet got herself a bike for Oxford so I started looking for her birthday. She really liked my old Carlton (which was properly restored) so I decided to try and get her something similar, hence the old style and my eagerness to put new components on it. I personally had no previous attachment to the bike, but I thought (and hoped!) she'd like it. It turns out she absolutely loves it, and her friends often compliment it for being both attractive and unique. Generally speaking the bike is in good condition and had never been stored outside. I also bought it from a contact of mine that restores older bikes in his spare time and had checked it over and performed all basic maintenance that I am not used to dealing with. So to be clear, I am not 'rescuing' an old bike for my own entertainment, this is specifically in reference to what she wants and as an engineering PhD student in a department full of bike nuts and every piece of equipment you could possibly need, as well as a volunteer bike repair place down the road, I think I should be OK getting it sorted. The reason I am trying to do the work without spending too much money is that she would hate it if I spent too much on her, something she tells me off for doing quite often. Yes a new bike might be a little physically better suited to her but in that picture the seat is that high because I had ridden it home, and I am much taller than she is.

Personal stuff aside (and hopefully acceptably explained), if I swap the brake levers I will also swap the centrepulls out for my sidepulls, thanks for letting me know about the cable pull. The gears were initially fine but started to slip after a while. I've had the lever mechanism apart since then and cleaned up/tightened things and it seems to be better. However, if a brand new part was likely to perform better I'd happily get one simply for peace of mind.

Brucey wrote:if you have ~12mm of upwards movement of the brake blocks available then when you change from 597 to 622mm rims then you will be able to re-use the old centre pulls.

Personally I'd try the suicide levers with the new wheels before ditching them; if you change to alloy rims the brakes will instantly work x3 better in the wet or so.

It looks as if you have a Simplex friction lever gear there; this should be assembled bone-dry. The slightest trace of grease or oil will cause the lever to slip, so degrease it before assembling it. Note that if the backplate moves (even slightly) when the lever is moved, or the front plate moves slightly either, then the tension screw will gradually back out as the lever is moved back and forth.

A final comment is that I would suggest a different saddle, chosen by your GF to be comfy; that one looks pretty dreadful to me.


I agree about the saddle, I've asked her about it a few times because I'd like to replace it but she swears it's fine. I guess the short duration of each ride ensures any potential discomfort level is never reached.

There's definitely room to move the brake blocks up 12mm which was my original thought. I think I will try the centrepulls and suicide levers with alloy rims first and only change if they aren't a good fit. I'll check the friction gear lever for movement like you suggested, thanks for the detailed description!

mjr wrote:Are they steel wheels and did you replace the pads with steel-compatible ones? Something like Fibrax Raincheaters? With the rise of aluminium rims, this seems to be a surprisingly common mistake with old bikes.

Probably and I think it could be replaced with any gear levers that have the same cable pull. If you change the derailleur, then that'll determine the cable pull needed. I'm using a Shimano 7-speed switchable shifter in friction mode on one bike and it works fine, even though there's only 6 gears. By "isn't up to the job" do you mean only the slipping (I think some levers get so old and can't be tightened any more) or is there some other problem?

I slightly dislike indexed gearing: firstly, it's an extra small nuisance getting it exactly slick; and secondly, most combined brake/shifters can't be checked by position so I'm forever forgetting what gear I'm in!


Yes they are steel wheels and no, I had no idea there were steel compatible brake pads available, and neither did my local bike shop! They only suggested replacing the wheels altogether. Do the fibrax pads you suggested work as well as alloy wheels and normal pads would?

The gear lever is just slipping, everything else works perfectly. It's a 5 speed system, I'll try and get more detail on them soon but I have a super busy week going on! You make an interesting point about combined shifters, I hadn't considered that. I've not had them before myself!

merseymouth wrote:Hi All, Unless I'm having another Senior Moment I believe that the stirrups will be fine as the bike currently wears 26" x 1.125" rims? So 700c rims will be slightly bigger. Also with the right sort of freewheel, 6 speed, Indexing is certainly possible using a 120mm rear hub. As for "Suicide Levers"? BIN THEM! TTFN MM


Good to know thanks. I may give the current brake set up a chance with alloy wheels but I'm more than happy to swap my Carlton's side-pull brakes and Aero levers over. I really need to find out exactly what I have on the bike before asking you for more specific advice on the 5 speed gears. I'll get back to you soon if that's OK.
by DavidH
27 Jan 2015, 5:05pm
Forum: Bikes & Bits – Technical section
Topic: Rebuilding a 70s road bike
Replies: 41
Views: 3538

Re: Rebuilding a 70s road bike

fastpedaller wrote:120mm OLN spacing on rear - frame has to either be cold set to 130mm ( to be able to use a modern hub) , or use a zenith or similar threaded hub with 120 OLN, but this will restrict the use to 5 speed (or ultra 6) and index gearing will not work so it's friction only!


I'm happy to keep the current gears if possible, or just change for newer versions of the same part. How can I find out if the gears already on it can be used with a new wheel?

fastpedaller wrote:700c rims are 4mm on radius less than 27" rims, so unless the callipers will reach, alternatives are needed.
Those tektro ones only have 49mm drop, so probably not enough, and unless you can get 'nutted -on ' callipers you will need to machine the rear of the fork to take the recessed nut .... and then if you want to fit guards, not easy!
I'd suggest callipers with nuts may be available from SJS or Spa.


Thanks for this information, I'll check what my Carlton's brakes are and report back later.
by DavidH
27 Jan 2015, 1:02pm
Forum: Bikes & Bits – Technical section
Topic: Rebuilding a 70s road bike
Replies: 41
Views: 3538

Re: Rebuilding a 70s road bike

WOOLIFERKINS wrote:Presuming you have the clearance to fit 700Cs you are going to have to change the brake calipers anyway as there will not be enough clearance to adjust the pads to fit from the 26" wheels. I would get some Tektro levers and calipers


I have brake levers and calipers just like that on my Carlton, I'll find out exact details but I can swap that all over hopefully. Good to know I need the new calipers. Also, I'm pretty confident there is sufficient clearance for 700c wheels.

WOOLIFERKINS wrote:Presuming it is 7 speed or less, moving to 8 speed and onwards will need cold setting the rear drops. Is it cassette or is it freehub?


I'm not sure what the difference is, does this describe the difference? I can check tonight.

WOOLIFERKINS wrote:The gears will only self shift if the pull from the spring in the rear mech overcomes the friction on the lever. Yours is band on as opposed to having lugs on the frame these are still available from SJS


I assumed that was the case, will replacing the shifter solve this?

Thank you for a detailed answer.
by DavidH
27 Jan 2015, 10:25am
Forum: Bikes & Bits – Technical section
Topic: Rebuilding a 70s road bike
Replies: 41
Views: 3538

Rebuilding a 70s road bike

Last October I gave my girlfriend a beautiful old road bike that I believe is from the 70s. I had replaced the essentials (brakes, cables, tyres, seat, handlebar tape etc) but left most of the original parts (including wheels) and some are causing problems, especially in the winter weather. The brakes can't grip onto the wheels in the wet and the friction gearing is liable to slip when adjusted despite attempts to maintain it. As a result I have leant her my spare mountain bike (to stop the lack of brakes killing her!) and I intend to make some changes which I need some advice with.

My previous bike was an 80s Carlton frame with all new components including a set of great 700c wheels (Mavic Open Pro, single gear). Unfortunately it was vandalised 8 months ago leaving the frame bent and the back wheel completely mangled. I'm hoping to use it as a donor for some parts for the 70s bike. My current plan is this:

- Replace her original 26" 1 1/4 wheels with 700cs, both my undamaged front and a new rear

Her front forks are the old ~96mm spacing but my front wheel is a 100mm. I assume cold setting the forks slightly to accommodate this extra width is fine. The rear has 120mm spacing which I think would be normal for a new rear wheel? There are only gears on the rear wheel and I'd like to keep it that way. Would I be right in assuming the old cassette (not sure of details without checking) are unlikely to fit a replacement back wheel? I'm currently looking at options like this but unsure what cassette to get, and whether her derailleur will need updating? I'll have a closer look at these parts tonight to be more specific.

- Replace her old brake levers (suicide type) with the levers from my Carlton (newer components)

The brake components themselves should be fine but I could always swap them over too if necessary. She has centre-pulls which I think I'm right in saying are fine?

- Possibly replace friction gearing - unsure of best option

This is where I'm most unsure, and where I'd like to avoid spending too much if possible. She's happy with the gears available on the bike but the friction gearing isn't up to the job. Can I just replace that with a newer version, and if so which? If I have to replace the cassette for the new back wheel do I need a new derailleur and new gearing system? I'd love to just buy combined brake shifters for her but they seem very expensive!

Sorry for the vague points and lack of knowledge, I've tried reading around as much as possible (Shelbon Brown's stuff mostly) and I'm an Engineering PhD student so I'd like to think I can handle this, just need advice to fill in my knowledge gaps! Any input is greatly appreciated.

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