Cycling UK Forum

As the original object of this exercise was to get lower gears, I am now thinking that my simplest solution might be to bolt a 32t sprocket onto the hub side of the Regina 5 sp. I have about 11mm clearance between the inner face of the Regina 24t and the spokes, so enough to drive a bus through. Clearance between the jockey arm of the rear mech and the spokes of the rear wheel will probably be marginal, but, I think, worth a 'suck it and see' exercise. Conveniently, the Regina has a series of holes ready drilled in the 24t sprocket.

Thanks Brucey,

I had a feeling that you would be along shortly.

Re: Simple solution. Would the Suntour F/W outer fit the Regina inner?

Re: 3/16 balls. I've got a feeling that some did and some didn't. I'll check mine.

Re: Scarcity of sprockets. Yes that is probably the deal breaker.

This Regina freewheel cluster is on a wheel whose ratios I wanted to change for a lower set. So two wheels are involved in the procedure. The first is a 700c wheel with a 13-32 six speed Sun tour block requiring a two dog extractor. I took that and the wheel with the offending Regina (27x1 1/4) round to the LBS thinking that would be the 'path of least resistance'. He couldn't get either block off!
Back home, not being blessed with a bench vice, I clamped a 450mm stilson wrench into my 'Work-Mate' and braced the (anticlockwise) leg of same against a wall and used the stilson as stand-in for a bench vice. Hefty twist of the rim and...Success!! and that despite finding that the axle was broken when I offer'd it up. Tried the same trick with the Regina... Result; it carved the freewheel remover up. And two further ones.

Here I go off at a tangent!

At the risk of smuggling in a new topic...

Does anyone have experience of the Helicomatic hub mentioned upthread? I recently acquired one (5sp) from this forum and I have to say, I'm quite impressed. It looks to be a Cycle Tourist's dream. The bearings are widely spaced, being placed right near the drop-outs (further outboard than a Shimano freehub, in fact. The freewheel can be removed using a sort of bottle opener device to remove the serrated lock ring and the freewheel cluster then simply slides off. Replacing a spoke mid tour would be a doddle. I haven't had a chance to try it out yet, I just need a bunch of Maillard sprockets in touring ratios.

So why does everyone seem to despise them? Were they really so bad? Or just a victim of Shimano,s success?

Thanks to all for your sage advice; a few strategies to be going on with. I'll try the disassembly route first, I think.

Any advice on removing a five speed freewheel. It is a Regina 14-24 and needs a two lug freewheel remover (it owes me three so far)
Either it carves through the f/w remover as if through butter, or breaks off one of the lugs.

I've had a couple of ideas, ranging from a heat gun to smashing it with a hammer. I'd like to reuse the hub/wheel so probably not the latter.

Any advice welcome.

Your'e only as old as the bicycle you ride!

Just a thought...

Have you considered crank length? Most bikes seem to come supplied with 170mm cranks as a default size or worse still 175mm if it has offroad pretentions. Given your inside leg measurement, I would expect you to be comfortable with something in the region of 162.5 to 165mm

Seriously cool bike, by the way!

Thanks Brucey,

That was a very interesting article.

It seems then,that it is a case of 'I have found that this combination (of head angle/fork offset/resultant trail) works for me', rather tha 'I use the XYZ formula'. i.e. received wisdom rather than 'hard science'.

Simple question; is there a formula to derive the offset (or rake) of forks from a given head angle? Or visa versa?

eg 72deg = 1.75" 71deg = 2.125" etc

I use Campag Gran Sport levers ( cables sprouting type ) in cahoots with Centaur ATB cantis on a touring bike. These levers work much better than the Campag ( hidden cables ) type that were 'designed' for the cantis. Also, I like exposed cables sprouting from the hoods. They give me a ( false? ) sense of security. With the so-called aerodynamic type I have a peculiar sense that I might slip off the front of the bike!

On another, older tourer, I have Weinman QR levers with CP calipers of the same make - No complaints there either.

In both cases I have nice modulated braking. The wheels won't lock up and cause a skid ( unless I want them to ).

I stand corrected.

cycleruk wrote:Reynolds produced a special tube "531 Millenium" that could be welded. It had shorter thicker butts to withstand the heat.
Donohue.jpg
Bought 2001 and I sold it through the forum in 2017.

Ah ! That's just like mine !

Edit: Not sure that it is actually 531. I suspect that '531 millenium' may be a case of 'salesman speak' and it's probably CroMoly. Doesn't seem to feel like 531 when ridden. Still a nice ride, though.

Are lugless 531 frames noticeably weaker than lugged? NO!

Edit: That is, fillet brazed 531 frames are no weaker; if the builder takes sensible precautions to minimise ovality of the head tube and the seat tube.
531 doesn't like to be tig welded-due to the very high temperatures consequent on melting the tubes together.

I always thought it was called an adjustable spaniard.

On mine, one of the cut-outs has a little 'tit', so it's different from the others.
I position this to line up with the 'catch pin' on the outer c/w, ie behind the crank arm. Inner c/w has corresponding indicator. I align all three.