Cycling UK Forum

DaveP wrote:Simply having different views doesn't make a subject contentious!

Quite right, Dave! I was simply surprised that anybody did it any other way; the saddle being, as it is (or becomes, using the method I outlined) a progressive rate spring.

This is obviously a contentious issue.

As I said previously, the method I described above is the one that I use. It works for me and has done for more years than I care to remember. I make no claims for anyone elses posterior. Everyone is different.

I do have experience of a spa saddle, as it happens. I bought one of their 'warfe' models a couple of weeks ago. My first impression was 'crikey, this is 'ard. I gave it the treatment. It is now as comfortable as any of my other saddles (various Brooks B17n, Swallows, and two Swift) and that within a week.

EDIT. Incidentally, none of my saddled sag, prematurely or otherwise. Several are 35+ years young.

J.L.

My practice is to lay off the creams/oils etc until the saddle is broken in.

Your best bet with any new leather saddle (IMHO) is to ride for a few miles to determine if there is any discomfort and if so, where it is. In my case (and everyone is different) this is usually under the 'sit bones' which should rest on the wide portion of the saddle just forward of the cantle rail at the back ( if everything else is set up correctly). These two areas under the 'sit bones' should NEVER receive any treatment - it needs to conform to your shape and have a degree of complience. If you oil or wax or whitever this area, the saddle will never be comfortable and never be able to be broken in. The only areas of a leather saddle that should receive any treatment (IMHO) is the whole nose (where the adjuster is) back as far as the point at which the leather flairs out and the periphery - the sides and the area around around the rivets. NEVER TREAT THE UNDERSIDE. If you do the leather will not be able to breath. That layer of whatever under the saddle is there for that reason.

You can speed up the breaking in process by soaking a couple of small balled up tissues in water and placing one on either side of the top at the rear of the saddle where those 'sit bones' rest. Leave them there overnight. This will soften that area thus allowing it to conform to your posterior more easily. If you are in a particular hurry the process can be assisted with a 'ball pean' hammer. Having soaked overnight as above, tap the (ball side) of the hammer in a circular pattern around those TWO small ( in my case) areas where the sit bones rest. The area between (the centre line of the saddle) should not be struck with the hammer and indeed, may receive application of proof hide or equiv.

The above is MY method. It works for ME and has afforded many, many miles of cycling comfort.

I hope it is of help to you.

Vantage wrote:I have to say I'm envious of him. He's living a life that isnt dependent on all the modern 'civilised' crap that we're all so used to.
I wish I had the cahonies to do likewise.

I agree wholeheartedly. After all isn't cycle camping (and especially wild camping) in essence a 'safe' version of what this lad is doing?

Know nothing of this maker myself but, in addition to the sites you mention, you could try the VCC (Veteran Cycle Club). They have 'marque enthusiasts' for most well known makers and many of the smaller builders also. You will almost certainly have to join the club, to get this benefit.

Also, try H Lloyd Cycles. They produce repro transfers and occasionally have 'ex libris' items not shown on their usual bill of fare.

Thanks again Brucey,
I'm sure you are right about the relative strengths of steel and 'clever' alloys of aluminium. I was trying to make a facetious point about the relative 'sexiness' of the materials from a salesmans B******s perspective.

I understand that there is a measure of hardness in the engineering world ( Vickers? ). As you imply, there is a tradeoff between hardness and brittleness; I have experienced teeth going AWOL from the rear sprocket and found, to my consternation, that once the first tooth has escaped - others soon follow.

Does anyone know where the best compromise between strength and hardness lies - is there a number or numbers for this? The crux of my question.

andrew_s wrote:

jimlews wrote:Not thinking of machining indexing ramps etc just basic items like old everest maillard etc.

Could you reverse the sprockets to use the other side of the teeth?

Thanks Andrew, I've already done that on maillard freewheel sprockets - just had to modify one of the splines (if that is the right word) slightly with a file.

It is interesting that with chainwheels, the manufacturer proudly proclaims that their product is made of Al 7075-T6 or whatever ( originally developed for the Zero fighter aircraft ) but the poor old rear sprockets are just steel, albeit hardened or chromed if they are posh.

Thanks Brucey, I just knew that you would be there.

It is really just a nebulous idea at the moment - I have lots of freewheels that have perfectly good internals but worn out sprockets. Not thinking of machining indexing ramps etc just basic items like old everest maillard etc. However, I realise that the most difficult sprockets would be those that are threaded on to the freewheel body so, what the devil those various threads are I don't know. So all in all, as you say 'is it worth it?' Probably not.

Does anyone know the specification of the steel used for the rear sprockets of a freewheel/cassette cluster.

I may have access to a CNC router and, well, just thinking...

NUKe wrote:Roads

Sorry but the tile reminded me of this
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9foi342LXQE

My inspiration laid bare

In view of the new identity proclaimed at the top of the page, does the CTC actually exist any more?

And:

As the subject title - What has the CTC ever done for you?

In my case, the most memorable occasion was receiving (completely gratis) photocopies of a Jack Lauterwasser article from a 1950s edition of Cycle Touring concerning the conversion of Sturmey Archer four speed hubs to five speed operation.

I just wondered if anyone else has been in receipt of similar kindnesses.

Pete Jack wrote:

jimlews wrote:I wish someone would bring back Hebden Cords ( 30'' waist if anyone has a pair going spare) and those long cross checked knitted socks. The epitome of cycling sartorial elegance in my opinion.

This sort of thing? https://janheine.wordpress.com/2015/10/02/compass-knickers/ The socks still need work.

Thanks Pete,

I've sent off for a pair of those knickers ( plusses in UK speak ), all the way from Seattle to Gross Britanian.

Still 'up for' a pair of those 'ebdens though.

I wish someone would bring back Hebden Cords ( 30'' waist if anyone has a pair going spare) and those long cross checked knitted socks. The epitome of cycling sartorial elegance in my opinion.

Garyf89 wrote:I probably will have luggage yes but in a bag on my back, if I do have to carry it, I won't need a rack. I will be using it after the coast to coast, leisure use mainly on roads/cycle routes/light trails. I hadn't thought about second hand, fancied a new one, less likely to go wrong or need things replacing but will have a look.

Thanks

Gary

A bit off topic but, to carry luggage on your back is to put yourself at risk of serious back injury.

You don't want to do that do that.

I noticed that the previous poll added up to 101%