Cycling UK Forum

cyclop wrote:The A7,Carlisle to Edinburgh is designated the "scenic route" to Edinburgh

In my opinion, the B709 is the better bicycle route to Edinburgh; the A7, while quite picturesque in places, carries too much fast traffic for my taste. The road less travelled.

JL

simonineaston wrote:Sorry, Jim - the remark about FW as paper-weights was made tongue-in-cheek...

Ah... it's never been quite the same since the SOH bypass...

I'm perfectly happy.

Excellent! Keep noodlin, Simon.

All the Best,

JL.

simonineaston wrote: my old FWs I use as paper-weights

I'll take your old paperweights if you don't want them anymore, Simon.

Off topic; is your avatar pic the real (G brand) deal? Melody Maker me.

martin biggs wrote:I have always loved the Bates fork for its quirkiness, never had the privilege to own one yet

Quirkiness aside, they ride very well and comfortably perform all the required steering functions; far better in fact, than the currently fashionable straight forks, which are like riding a pile driver IMHO. Straight forks are a daft idea.

Lewis wrote:22 1/2inch Bates Eucadian. number E175571 cantiflex tubes. it was painted by Argos some time ago and they put a 531 sticker on it but it's not. The tubes are cigar shaped.

The tubes are almost certainly (99.999% certainly) 531. Bates commissioned Reynolds to produce a 'cantiflex' tubeset to their (Bates) own design. Cantiflex=cigar shaped.

Edit: As to worth; these are desirable to the right buyer. Personally, I can never get past the pre-pranged fork. For every Bates there must be a matching Hetchins.

JL

Brucey wrote:yes, the calculation is that complicated, which is why there are online calculators

-which give the old grey matter less of a kicking....

Thanks Brucey, you're a national treasure !

JL

Brucey wrote:

mattsccm wrote:I am building a 36 flip flop hole hub up with 3x lacing. Do I need to be aware of anything special bearing in mind that it will be used with both fixed and freewheels?

IME you need to use your own (accurate) measurements, because other people won't have measured your rims (they vary) and may not have measured the ones they had accurately anyway.

I've built a few wheels by copying existing examples using same or similar rims/hubs etc with ok results. But, for more adventurous / obsolete combinations (32f 40r 27" or old 26") where there is no example to copy I find that I am stuck. There is a formula in the Jobst Brandt wheel building book but I can't get my feeble brain around it.

Is the calculation really that complicated, or am I just dim?

Thanks to everyone for your helpful responses.

Several hopeful leads.

Does anyone know where I can obtain transfers / vinyls for a 1959 Holdsworth Hurricane? It is only the downtube transfers and top tube 'name' that I need. To be correct for the cycle they should be the block capitol style.

I know that Lloyds in Penrith used to do them but can no longer do so under some kind of injunction from Planet X who have hoovered up the name. The response from PX is unhelpful.

Hi Brucey,

May I ask a few questions?

Just before Sturmey Archer went down the gurgler there was talk of a gel lubricant formulated for hub gears and I believe that SA were using the stuff at the time.

My questions are, do you know what this product was - who made it? Did it survive SA? Is it still available? Is/was it any good?

I have been advised NOT to use 3 in 1 oil in a Sturmey hub gear though, lubes or weldite were deemed ok - both I would characterise as light machine oil. What is your advice.

Incidentally, I have never had internal corrosion problems with my FW in spite of (it) having 'primitive' seals and a flip-top oiler. (Edit: the hub, not me)

JL.

Is the pinch bolt (cable to front changer) fully tight. If you have only had the bike a month it may still be suffering from Halfords pre sale set-up syndrom.

boyztoyz wrote:Hi.
I have been offered British Eagle Touristique which is in excellent original condition complete with Carradice panniers for £80.Would this be a good buy?

Great bike!
I also have recently bought one of these ( from this forum ) and I am very pleased with it.

I have been riding it to work, about eight miles each way and it performs very well. I have also taken it up through the local mountain bike centre; no ten foot dropoffs or anything stupid like that, just up the forestry roads and single tracks and along the sheep walks above. It is a quite capable roughstuff machine. Also quite rapid on road; the tyres may have something to do with that - Vittoria Rubino Intrepid - not a tyre I have heard of before, but fast and comfortable.

Assuming it fits you, I think you have made a great buy. I know I am happy with mine even though I paid a lot more than you did.

gospo1 wrote:Hello Everyone.

I Have some serious trip planned next year, start in either april or may start in france in Dunkirk and then going round some other countries, street playing instruments in each town/city. Sleeping wild in tent

Tom

Sounds like a wonderful adventure you have conceived.

What instruments will you be playing? You will need to think about space for them within the rather limited luggage capacity of a touring bike and also protecting them from the ravages of the weather. Some instruments can be ruined by damp or wet conditions. A set of pan pipes are one thing but, a double bass would necessitate the additional purchase of a bike trailer and a waterproof 'flight case', for example. Even a small mandolin or uke would be problematic on a bike.

As to the bike, I would think that a second hand rigid (steel) mountain bike would serve. Nothing at all glitzy if you are planning to camp wild. Preferably, it should have brazed fittings for front and rear racks and the racks may already be fitted to the bike you choose. It is possible to purchase this sort of machine for as little as £ 50.00 if you are prepared to trawl the second hand and junk shops. My personal preference with regard to bike fit is that there should be a MINIMUM clearance of 50mm between the top tube and the crotch 100mm is better.

The only problem I can forsee is that you may not want the adventure to end after just one summer.
But then, that may not be a problem.

yostumpy wrote: The answer is, next time you feel constricted, slip the straps off your shoulders, and try that. If it works, then you need only to extend your shoulder straps by a couple of inches. This can be done where ever is convienient, either with buttons or velcro.

Plusses with braces.

bainbridge wrote:Hi tourers

I have a specific question regarding wearing bib tights.

Does anyone else find these extremely uncomfortable in the genital area?

Yes, I do.

I defer to those with prior knowledge of bib tights with a zip fly, though ( donning my pedant's hat ) wouldn't that make them bib trousers?

I have only ever bought one pair and wore them only once, so my sample is not a large one. I won't be repeating the experiment but concede that bib tights may make a passable pair of pyjamas/cum chastity belt.

As for keeping the lower back from chilling, the traditional knitted cycling jersey with pockets on the long back does that more than adequately.

JL