Cycling UK Forum

My Ultegra push fit BB is currently aat least 20,000 miles old. It cost about 25 quid. I think I'll stick with it

Get a beater. Paint it with Dulux and dribble different colours on it. Use bolts instead of QRs.
My dad's old Raleigh had a lock which restricted the steering movement - so it wouldn't go straight and would only turn a fraction.
My son's locked bike was nicked outside Aldi in full view of CCTV. But he couldn't get the footage without a police request and the police couldn't give a damn. Luckily my neighbour was having a clearout and sold me a nice Cube for £100.
Another problem I have noticed is that bike racks are often hidden away from view, at the back of a building or somewhere else that allows a thief to work unhindered.

I used to toe in brakes and they would shortly wear down parallel to the rim. Now I just set them parallel because I don't discern any difference in performance. I must be missing something here; but what? Thanks in advance for explaining.

I ride with someone who has a 50/30 set up using an Absolute Black inner. He says it works.
I use 46t outer chain wheels and the front derailer is about 10mm above the 46t ring. It changes OK. I searched for a derailer dropper and couldn't find one anywhere on th enet - so thanks for your links to these devices.

Never had a problem with filing. I can't imagine how you could dislodge a strand of outer unless very ham fisted, or maybe using a rasp

Topeak make an adjustable bottle cage which can accept smaller vessels (eg beer can) or small thermos. There's no way I'd put glass in a bottle cage.

Around 1956 I encountered a cyclist who had sixty gears.
Triple chainset - 4sp sturmey Archer with a 5 sp block - very impressive bottom gear.
The book is "Lessons".

How ever did he manage to get an SA spindle long enough, ditto gear change rod/chain? Made it, I suppose. He must have stretched his dropouts wider and redished his wheel fairly drastically too?
I'm guessing his front triple had fairly close spacing of the chain rings, given the front derailers available. There must have been a lot of duplication of ratios.

Wiggle have the DHB winter jacket on offer

I bought some branded GIYO at a fraction of the price of Bar Mitts

I had an Open Pro rim which gave up at a smidge under 1mm. Nowadays I check with my Iwanson gauge and re-rim or junk at 1mm. If the rim has a wear guide I go by that.

Big T wrote: ↑15 Sep 2013, 9:04pm Cut your losses now and go for a square taper chainset. You can get a reasonable one for £60-70 and the BB will last 15,000 miles.

My bike has done at least 36,000 miles and I changed the push in BB at about 16,000 miles. This is a standard Shimano BB.

mumbojumbo wrote: ↑24 Nov 2022, 7:45pm Surely you need to customise and place where it affords most comfort.

What methodology do you suggest?
(short of buying numerous saddles and carving them differently)









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peetee wrote: ↑7 Nov 2022, 7:16pm

gxaustin wrote: ↑7 Nov 2022, 6:27pm The incompatibility of 105 10sp and 4700 Tiagra is not incomprehensible. When the Ultegra 6700 went to cables under the bar tape the shift was sketchy (6600 with side entry cables was fine) so Shimano increased the pull ratios for the 6800, and also the 4700 which has cables under the bar tape. It seems logical to me.

But why was it sketchy?

Because the cables have to follow the bends of the bars and the radii are quite tight. This caused greater friction which could attenuate the cable movement. They cured it by increasing the cable pull per click

peetee wrote: ↑7 Nov 2022, 7:52am

Gunfa wrote: ↑7 Nov 2022, 7:27am Thanks for the suggestion, the 9 speed derailleur is a good option which I know about, but I was curious if anybody had solved the 105 to Tiagra problem, I like a challenge.

Incomprehensible Incompatibility is a typical Shimano trait.

The incompatibility of 105 10sp and 4700 Tiagra is not incomprehensible. When the Ultegra 6700 went to cables under the bar tape the shift was sketchy (6600 with side entry cables was fine) so Shimano increased the pull ratios for the 6800, and also the 4700 which has cables under the bar tape. It seems logical to me.

I've been using GP 5000 TLs tubeless. They have been very good and lasted 3,800 and 4,000 miles on the rear. The front is on about 10,000 and nearly worn out. I had one puncture which needed a few pump ups to get home - but get home I did. They were tough to get on the rims but I can't fault the performance.