Cycling UK Forum

I undo my quick links regularly to clean the chain and so far no problem. They are pretty simple things but could riding on big-big ratios or incorrect chainline be part of the problem? I always try to keep the chain as straight as possible.

I use an old bike frame and some old forks which I hold in a bike stand. I use a piece of tape across the forks to show out of round and mark it up to show the correct position of the wheel flanges. Seems to work OK - and the wheels run well on my bikes. It was free BTW

At last year's cycle show I tried out the Shram wireless electronic changers. No wires = no plugs to play up

I have just bought some WD40 spray chain wax - no results as yet though.

How about taking a ferry?

If all else fails can you not stick a Stilson on the outer thread - with scaffold tube if necessary for extra leverage. This has worked for me in the past.

I’m still debating whether I should leave mudguards permanently fitted. When I ride without them and encounter wet roads, I wish I had them on. But when I ride with them, I long for the simplicity of bare tyres that can be knocked into walls when walking up stairs, easily inspected for glass and flints, and brushed with the hand after riding over rubbish. And I always have a nagging feeling that mudguards slow me down (aerodynamically).

You do seem to have a lot of reservations about going for a Brooks. if you are the sort of rider for whom mudguards are an impediment then the weight of a traditional saddle could be a deal breaker - especially a sprung saddle. Maybe you should look elsewhere.

I use a standard B17 and an Imperial - which I have laced. I find the B17 very comfortable, the Imperial is no more so, for me anyway. I am 72kg with long legs BTW.
I feel that a narrow version of the B17 might be worth a try. This is because I also have a vintage Wrights saddle = which is a bit narrower than a Standard Brooks, and I find that comfortable. I also have a vintage Ideale, French leather saddle. Thats OK too.
I wouldn't bother with springs.
Personally I find these leather saddles as comfortable with a simple pad as with a gel type.
On the other hand have you tried some of the modern alternatives like a Charge Spoon or a Fizik? They are a lot lighter.
Graham

Brucy is right. I was thinking about the drive forces since the spoon brake is pretty ineffectual and would send you aver the handlebars if it wasn't.

It obviously works. Do the long spokes help?

My friend's Ordinary has radial spokes - lots of them

I now have the Velo BB. Interestingly the drive side has no thread lock but the non drive side does. I can soon apply it mind

"There is often a rift between the two as they both think they're better than one another"

That's funny - all the cyclists I know are motorists too. And we have all passed a test which entitles us to ride a moped, let alone a bike.
The Daily Fail is just divisive
Graham

"There is often a rift between the two as they both think they're better than one another"

That's funny - all the cyclists I know are motorists too

I see what you mean. I have to get a BB because I can't find a short enough free axle for my fairly modern cranks so I'll soon find out what works best.
I was hoping not to have to tighten it as much as the one I removed. This involved clamping a big spanner to the flats with a bolt through the BB and applying a 3' scaffold tube to the end!
At least the VO item will take a splined tool rather than relying on tiny flats on the circumference.

Thinking a bit further about Brucy's comment - I do take your point. A right hand thread on the drive side will tend to loosen. Hence my idea of attaching the fixed cup and BB assembly on the non drive side where the presession will tend to tighten it.
I tell you what - I'll try it and report back.