Cycling UK Forum

I'm puzzled that we never seem to consider the weight of panniers: I've just weighed my two Altura rears, two Carradice fronts, and Karrimor bar bag,and they total 3.44kg, empty. This when I've just shelled out a few extra quid for the pretty cassette with the wee holes in it, when I could probably save as many grammes by peeling the banana before setting off! Any reports/views on relative weights?

Most people seem to use about 1:200,000, which show pretty much every road; the best way seems to be to buy a road atlas for the country, rip out the relevant pages, and chuck the rest (as long as you've got a bar-bag or something, to keep the weather off). Or just ask the way - I met a bloke who'd ridden from Stockholm to Rome with no maps at all! Most maps stopped showing campsites a few years ago, so unless you can find old ones, it's difficult. If you're only passing through three countries, presumably that's France, Italy, Greece? In France, campsites are everywhere, and there's not much problem; in Italy, tourist areas (Alps, coasts) are well supplied, otherwise they're thin to non-existent. Greece, dunno. You never need to book.

Now I'm really confused: I haven't replaced the old cassette yet (it's on order - don't ask), but I've just changed the chainset from a 42-32-22 to a 48-38-28, and when I put the chain back on, I find to my surprise that (1) I don't need to lengthen the chain, and (2) the jumping cog problem has vanished. Could it just have been an over-long chain, combined with a slightly worn cassette? If so, why would it happen on nearly every cog combination, rather than just when there's a lot of slack chain for the dérailleur to take up?

Under:
http://reiseauskunft.bahn.de/bin/query.exe/e takes you to the German railway website where you can check routes and tick a box for taking bicycles. There's a tunnel Bardonecchia- Modane, but it doesn't look good for bikes (I looked into this a few weeks ago, as I'm planning a similar route the other way).
Over:
As others have remarked, Alpine passes aren't particularly steep, they're just long. I did the Simplon a couple of years ago (which looks about the same height as Mont Cenis or Montgenevre), first big hill I'd ever done, heavily loaded, I'm no spring chicken, and it was no major sweat. You just settle in for a few hours in bottom gear, take it easy, swallow your pride and walk now and then. Stop and enjoy the view, take all day if need be. Just be sure to have warm clothes, and hope for good weather!

I’m internet shopping for a new cassette, 8 speed 11-32, and find several available: Shimano offer HG30, HG40, HG50 etc, and SRAM PG820, PG830, PG850. Prices vary widely, and I can’t find any useful information – even on Shimano’s website – about what I'll get for my money. I imagine higher numbers may imply better quality? But what does that mean – lighter? More durable? Less durable? Better shifting? Simply shinier? Any enlightenment much appreciated!

http://www.swissinfo.org/ger/verkehrsin ... t=490#pass

gives you the current state of all the Swiss passes

Campsites are pretty safe places, and there's always something to lock you bike to; if you're wild camping, the essence of your personal safety - as well as your bike's - is invisibility: you can be totally out of sight five yards from a main road if you're right behind the hedge.

Before you buy Rosetta Stone (which I don't know) try Googling Michel Thomas (which I do). I found them excellent courses, that get you speaking the language straight away, and they're a fraction of the price.

Mick I have to bow to your greater wisdom. I swapped onto a borrowed cassette, and it was sweet as a nut - so despite those nice measurements, it was a knackered cassette.

Just for the archive ... mine removed from the left hand side, with a 7/16" hex key. And - just to keep me on my toes - it's a left hand thread.

I've got one exactly the same - I suspect it's 7/16". I'll try to slip out tomorrow and buy a 7/16" allen key, and keep you posted.

Mick, I know it’s recent history: four years untouched at the back of my shed, after coming from a friend of a friend who is, shall we say, not the slimmest or most active of men. I’d be surprised if he knew how to change the chain. Of course he may have bought it second hand. What most convinces me of the low mileage is that – on a bike that looks like it’s never seen a duster, let alone an oilcan or a spanner – the one spot that’s pristine, showroom, eat-your-dinner-off-it clean, is the inner surface of the mudguards!
I’m not sure how to check a cassette for wear, but I imagine a measurement across two consecutive teeth would help. Putting callipers on a few cassettes, I got:
Wife’s bike (virtually new) – 15.7-15.9mm
My No 1 bike (+/- 2,000m, never a problem) – 15.4-15.7mm
The cassette in question – 15.3-15.5mm.
I’d have thought that was clean bill of health, though I’m willing to be told otherwise?

I took it all apart and put it together again, which fixes things surprisingly often, but not this time, alas. It certainly feels more like pawls disengaging than the chain jumping, and peering between my legs as I ride, I can't see anything amiss. The freehub looks and sounds just as pristine as the rest, but I'll try the overnight WD40 as a last resort. Then try the LBS on Monday for a new one.

I seem to remember from my irresponsible youth that worn cogs are pretty easy to spot, and these look like new: jump happens certainly in gears 2,3,4,5,6. Also, having taken the axle out, no discernible wear to bearings, cups or cones. So I’m assuming the problem’s in the freehub. It’s an SRAM, that removes with a 12mm allen key from the non-drive side – I wonder which way to turn it? I also wonder if it will be difficult/impossible to replace? New hub, rebuild wheel? Jeez!
Many thanks for a lot of prompt and helpful posts!

I'm cleaning up an old low-mileage Specialized Hardrock, and everything works fine except, on the pedal downstroke there’s often a loud clunk from the (7-speed) cassette, and the chain seems to jump a tooth. Only happens under high torque when I’m starting off, or going uphill. I can’t reproduce it with the bike inverted to see what’s happening. Some things it’s not:
Ghost shifting – it doesn’t change gear
Worn chain/cogs – no slack, chain links measure exactly one foot
Stiff link – newly cleaned and lubed, everything smooth as a baby’s bum
Chain offset on cog – I’ve moved it the full range of the barrel adjuster without effect
Damaged cog – it happens in several different gears
Twisted rear mech – looks straight and true to me
I’m stumped – can’t think what else to look at. Any suggestions?