Cycling UK Forum

Brucey wrote:you don't say what kind of seat pin it is, but as others have said the seat tube is probably nipped up slightly at the top (the seat pin will probably be undersize vs the seat tube, such that the latter will deform when the binder bolt is tightened).

The type of seat pin has a bearing on what methods can be used to remove it. Suction wouldn't be on the list of things that I would try, BTW...

cheers

Cyril Haearn wrote:

Airsporter1st wrote:

Cyril Haearn wrote:
It is better not to wave to thank them for obeying the law. You might be stopped by a traffic cop for taking a hand off the bars and not being in full control. In this situation it is quite usual for the driver to move off and steer towards you before you are clear. N e v e r trust them!

What is the difference between taking you hand off the bars to make a turn signal and taking your hand off to acknowledge someone's courtesy If you can be nicked for the latter, then I guess I will be nicked - I always thank people for doing the right thing.

Virtue is its own reward

In education or at work one should thank people, that makes sense. I often do it when shopping too

The HC says one should signal, it does not say one should reward those who simply obey the law! That is the difference

As I wrote above: often they slow down or stop but then move off again before one is clear, steering towards one and just missing, you have experienced this surely

N e v e r trust a moton/terrorist!

Cyril Haearn wrote:

Grandad wrote:

I know absolutely nobody that has never had a speeding fine]

I must be in a well behaved minority then

if the obstruction is your side, you wait. Don't like so often happens just continue straight toward any oncoming vehicle.

It is somewhat distressing how many drivers seem to think this rule does not apply if the other vehicle happens to be a cyclist.

Strangely enough I have recently had several drivers wait whilst I rode past an obstruction on their side of the road. Needless to say they get a grateful wave.

It is better not to wave to thank them for obeying the law. You might be stopped by a traffic cop for taking a hand off the bars and not being in full control. In this situation it is quite usual for the driver to move off and steer towards you before you are clear. N e v e r trust them!

poshdog wrote:I like riding in the rain! Wind not so much, but turn around and that pesky headwind turns into a glorious tailwind. Wheee!

RickH wrote:

Gattonero wrote:Also you have to remember to unclip before you are coming to a stop, i.e. you would unclip not when you are right at the traffic lights but when you're approaching and 10-20mt from the point you will stop.

Many (most?) people do but with SPDs I've never found I've needed to unclip significantly earlier than if I was on flat pedals. In the rare instances where I've unclipped one foot as I've come to a halt & the bike has gone the other way (gust of wind, movement of child in seat or tandem stoker behind, etc.) I've never failed to get the other foot out and prevented the bike from toppling.

Look type cleats are, potentially, a different matter. I'd not used them for 15-20 years & had forgotten how much more fiercely they grip until I'd been doing some track riding at the velodrome in the last year or two.

Even Looks are so much easier than the old slot cleats with tight toe straps of the "Olden Days". Who else remembers the having to do a hard stop & then trying to reach down & loosen a strap, to let you get your foot out, before the bike had actually fallen over?

Brucey wrote:nearly all pedals fitted to adult bicycles (in the UK, a few BMXs being the primary exception ) fit to the bike using RH/LH 9/16" x 20tpi pedal threads. This means that you can fit almost any pedals to your bike. Just remember that the LH pedal is on a LH thread, i.e. you turn it CW to unscrew it.

However shoes that accept cleats come in two main flavours; 'two bolt' (for SPD cleats etc) and 'three bolt' (for LOOK cleats etc). If you are just starting out I would suggest a set of two-bolt type shoes and (say) some PD-A520 pedals, or (easier yet) PD-M520 pedals (which are double-sided). These shoes/pedals have the great advantage that you can walk in them, unlike three-bolt shoes/cleats.

Modern bike pedals (of all types that provide retention) may require a little familiarisation before you can get your feet in and out. Some are easier than others.

cheers

RickH wrote:Yes he does mention the fork (I missed that before), but misses the point. It isn't the condition of the steerer, the recall is because there have been instances of the steerer becoming detached from the allow fork crown, i.e. possible bonding issues.

RickH wrote:Probably a nice bike (I have a Tk & have done many happy miles on it ) but - & it is a big but - it looks like to me that it may have the forks that were subject to a safety recall in late 2015 (link).

foxyrider wrote:

Airsporter1st wrote:

MikeF wrote:https://www.sheldonbrown.com/brakturn.html
Front brake is most efficient brake. Back brake also tends to increase wear on the rear tyre as the action of braking tends to lift the weight off it so it tends to slip/skid.

I'm sure that's true, but I did my cycling proficiency in 1959, when we were taught rear brake first, then front.

Times change and the reality is that the front brake should be doing most of the work. Seriously, for your own safety, practice feeding in the front brake first - you will stop faster and in better control.

Brucey wrote:

Airsporter1st wrote: ... Is it fairly easy to strip and check seals/bore?

yes but it is arguably pointless unless you can buy spare parts. Shimano don't sell the seals etc that you might require. A typical EV techdoc for a hydraulic MC looks like this

http://bike.shimano.com/media/techdocs/content/cycle/EV/bikecomponents/BL/EV-BL-M988-3074_v1_m56577569830721147.pdf

and most of them have fewer parts still.

Do bear in mind that your brakes should have a two-year warranty on them; I'd be asking the retailer about that.

cheers

MikeF wrote:

Airsporter1st wrote: I ride mostly on the flat and use the front brake very little, only as I come to a final halt.

https://www.sheldonbrown.com/brakturn.html
Front brake is most efficient brake. Back brake also tends to increase wear on the rear tyre as the action of braking tends to lift the weight off it so it tends to slip/skid.