Cycling UK Forum

It’s quite easy to accidentally route the chain over / outside the metal half / guide tabs of the rear mech’s cage, rather than inside them. That will cause horrendous chain slip.

Jdsk wrote: ↑4 Sep 2021, 9:12am

pwa wrote: ↑4 Sep 2021, 7:05am

Marcus Aurelius wrote: ↑3 Sep 2021, 10:06pm I’ve had 2 OAZ jabs. I don’t give them a snowball’s chance in hell of working against most of the new variants, nor do I care. I have my ‘Covid passport’ that’s good enough.

Your jabs may not prevent you getting the virus but they will greatly reduce your chances of being really ill from it. Most of the people actually ending up in hospital now are not staying there very long, and most are recovering. The vaccines have made a huge difference in that regard. I think you have a level of protection very much worth having, as well as having your vaccine passport.

I agree.

And they're holding up well against the new variants.

But I expect some redesign in the near future.

Jonathan

Yeahbut, hospitalisations are enough by themselves to invoke new lockdowns.

I’ve had 2 OAZ jabs. I don’t give them a snowball’s chance in hell of working against most of the new variants, nor do I care. I have my ‘Covid passport’ that’s good enough.

Psamathe wrote: ↑3 Sep 2021, 11:08am

Marcus Aurelius wrote: ↑3 Sep 2021, 9:59am My Garmin measures my efforts ( fairly accurately ) with various sensors. It actually provides me with a recommended rest period after each ride. I find that It’s usually fairly spot on too.

Out of interest, what sensors do you use (to get that info)?

I'm not looking for that sort of stuff from my Garmin but I've not seen any options for it (I only have wheel and cadence sensors and cadence only because I had to buy both sensors as a set when I wanted them at short notice).

Ian

It’s Power, speed , and cadence sensors ( included on the Power meters, because without them you can’t measure power) You can set the higher end Garmins ( I’ve got a 1030 ) to display all sorts of interesting stuff / numbers. I’ve got it set to give me training load, FTP, LTHR, power to weight and recommended rest time at present. I’ve got about 10 data fields on each of 4 ‘pages’ that I scroll through on rides too, although NP and elapsed time are the ones I look at most, followed by speed and time of the day. I like numbers, they really aren’t strictly necessary though, unless you’re actually training / competing, or riding an effort where knowing your numbers accurately will help avoid getting into physical difficulties.

My Garmin measures my efforts ( fairly accurately ) with various sensors. It actually provides me with a recommended rest period after each ride. I find that It’s usually fairly spot on too.

Jdsk wrote: ↑30 Aug 2021, 3:32pm

Marcus Aurelius wrote: ↑30 Aug 2021, 3:22pm

Jdsk wrote: ↑28 Aug 2021, 5:03pm
I don't understand this... aren't "taking the lane" and "primary" the same position?
https://www.cyclinguk.org/article/road- ... -explained

No, primary is away from the kerb pretty much in the middle of the lane, taking the lane is just short of the centre lines on the road, just enough left of them to prevent a pass on the left ( slightly further to the right than primary). I’d only advocate it approaching a pinch point ( basically completely blocking a squeeze by, where primary still leaves the metaphorical door ajar) or approaching a right turn ( for the same reason).

Thanks.

I found several sources saying that the two terms mean the same.

How do others use these, please?

Jonathan

Essentially I’d use ‘take the lane’ to put you squarely in front of the driver, right in their sight line, primary is more right in between the passenger and driver’s seats.

Jdsk wrote: ↑28 Aug 2021, 5:03pm

Marcus Aurelius wrote: ↑28 Aug 2021, 4:15pm I will take the lane at pinch points ( traffic islands etc ), I’ll ride in primary at all other times.

I don't understand this... aren't "taking the lane" and "primary" the same position?
https://www.cyclinguk.org/article/road- ... -explained

Thanks

Jonathan

No, primary is away from the kerb pretty much in the middle of the lane, taking the lane is just short of the centre lines on the road, just enough left of them to prevent a pass on the left ( slightly further to the right than primary). I’d only advocate it approaching a pinch point ( basically completely blocking a squeeze by, where primary still leaves the metaphorical door ajar) or approaching a right turn ( for the same reason).

I will take the lane at pinch points ( traffic islands etc ), I’ll ride in primary at all other times. I’ve been hit from behind more than once by aggressive drivers who can’t understand that ( even in primary ) I’m not as big an obstruction as a ( relatively) slow moving car. Their insurance companies have all paid up, I had one banned for 2 years. Unfortunately there are going to be dick drivers, you just need to remember that there aren’t that many of them. The main reason for me encountering more of them, was down to the time I used to spend on the roads. I’m not doing anything like the time / mileage anymore, so it’s much easier of late.

Yep, seriously, get out and ride somewhere in the countryside. You’ll get fit in no time, and not really notice how you did it.

Get onto Dave Brailsford. He needs a replacement for Chris Froome.

If you like a challenge, head for Swains Lane.

https://www.cyclist.co.uk/in-depth/4268 ... ain-s-lane

If you need somewhere bike friendly to have a bite to eat, where you can sit right by your bike, I can recommend Look mum no hands in Old street. The ‘LMNH burger’ is superb.

https://www.lookmumnohands.com/.

If you like scenic views, then Parliament hill is a good shout too.

https://www.visitlondon.com/things-to-d ... ament-hill.

As above. But smack the crank off with a dead blow mallet, it saves the hassle of a specific extractor.

It’s not technical, so a gravel bike or hybrid will be fine, just don’t use slicks.

PJ520 wrote: ↑18 Aug 2021, 7:07pm

Marcus Aurelius wrote: ↑18 Aug 2021, 5:39pm They do tend to come loose with use. If you use blue locktite on the threads, it helps. It’s still best to check the situation now and again. Give the cassette a wobble by pinching the big sprocket between your finger and thumb, and give it a wiggle, if there’s any play, it probably needs re torquing.

In many tens of thousands of miles this has not happened to me or anyone I've been with until this incident. But I'm fairly hard on cassettes and replace them relatively frequently and always use a torque wrench to tighten the nut

They tend to come loose if the locknut isn’t absolutely flush with the freehub when you try and torque it up. You’ll never get close to the 40 Nm you need, as it will rotate and feel like it’s getting tight, then release again. You have to put a bit of downward pressure on the locknut for the first bit of thread, then keep any tool you’re using dead straight until the locknut is properly located, then you’ll get the full torque you need. I’ve ridden many tens of thousands of miles without any issues, but I’ve had a few people I know with the problem, and that’s how I’ve ended up sorting it for them. It seems to be more common with Shimano cassettes and lock rings.

Tiny flimsy bicycle brake rotors wear out shocker. In other news, the pope is a Catholic, and bears do.