Cycling UK Forum

Rather than bike parts, I'd like to repurpose a whole bike to power a manual water pump of some sort to water my garden from a nearby pond. Last time I looked into it I didn't find any suitable affordable pump, only a rather costly commercially produced pump that had been developed as an aid to subsistence agriculture in the third world.
Any better ideas?

Sorry, I missed the point that you were aiming at straight bars rather than drops.
I also favour bar end shifters for their durability, simplicity and ability to choose index or friction modes. The Gevenalle shifters offer all those advantages over regular STIs while allowing more comfortable shifting from the hoods, which looks to me like a very desirable set up for touring, But I have never seen them in the flesh, let alone tried them, so I am not really sure if they are worth the money they cost.

If you want bar end shifters mounted onto a straight bar, there are a number of adapters that you can use.

Gevenalle make drop bar levers with bar-end type shifters "grafted" onto them. Have a look...

https://www.gevenalle.com/product/audax/

I've had several RH cones working loose and causing severe damage to the races and bearing balls but never to the thread, and that includes one of the new XT M785 hubs with aluminium axels and much softer threads. After these incidents I am convinced that threadlocking the RH cone and locknut is absolutely necessary and the only reason why I haven't done it so far is that during regular hub maintenance/adjusting everything gets smeared in grease and i presume that the treadlock won't have any effect unless you manage to keep the threads on axel, cone and nut surgically clean. Not an easy thing to do, as there will be already traces of grease in the thread between the cone and axel and you will smear that all along the axel when you take it off the hub. Another issue is that adjusting may require tightening and loosening the cones several times and theadlock, as many adhesives, are designed to be left in place without movement while they set.

Many of these shimano hubs with aluminium axel actually have the RH cone fixed onto the axel, I suppose they a are treadlocked at the factory before any grease is applied. If they use a river or any other mechanical solution to fix the RH cone, it is not visible.

Topeak Morph. The Mini Morph not bad for a small mini pump.

Yes, the left side is serviceable as any cup and cone bearing. You can extract/replace the cone and balls, clean and lubricate the race, etc. Dyno hubs are a bit more tricky than regular hubs though, because the magnets will strongly pull the axel to one side once you remove the cone that keeps it centerer.
The biggest problem in my view is actually adjusting these hubs, you can't really feel how smooth or tight the bearings run due to the magnet drag and "notchiness".

Just over 9 mm measured with a manual calliper. I haven't got a precise digital vernier calliper at hand.

reohn2 wrote:Surely if the axle ìs fully engaged in the dropouts up against the d/out stops and the the d/outs are forward facing I don't see how it can move,unless I'm misunderstanding the OP's problem.

Well, it doesn't move out of the dropouts, it moves laterally. If the axel undersized as Brucey points out, then there is enough play for some lateral movement.

8.7 mm, that is 0.3 mm thinner that it should be, is it? Somehow, it seems more to me that it moves more than that.

I had thought of the possibility of shimming the axel, getting it to fit snugly in the dropouts would prevent the movement.

By tightening more than I normally would I mean tightening the QR so that I can just about close it with my bare hand, that is tightening it as much as I possibly can without using any leverage. I will check the torque with the Allen nut.

By the way Brucey, what a reasonable or rather the maximum torque for the wheel locknut?

Thanks

Thread resurrection.

I have a front axel that will move about 1 mm when braking. It is a Genesis fork and thankfully the dropouts are front facing, so no real risk of ejection, but the wheel will move and fall out of alignment. I have tried a quick release and and a skewer with Allen head, tightened far more than I normally would and cannot get the axel to stay put.

I fear that over-tightening will shorten the life of the bearing by compressing the hollow axel and adding too much preload. The hub is a SP dyno hub with cartridge bearings, so i cannot adjust it to compensate for any unusual amount of torque.

Any idea as to how to go about to fix the axel without over-tightening? Removing the paint perhaps? It would have to be replaced by some corrosion protector though.

Well done interestedcp! It has to be that cone. I said 11 mm upthread but it is really 10.73 mm, and that very distinct dust cap.

The bad news is how awfully expensive that come is:

https://www.sjscycles.co.uk/hub-spares/ ... -2z4-9802/

Adding the cone and a set of 13 new bearings, you are looking at almost 30 quid! You can get the internal assembly for 50 or less, with a fresh cup race, so it is hardly worth the bother. I got a new hub for 65 euros shipped home from a German online shop.
For future dynamo wheels, I am starting to entertain the idea of that Kasai hub with easily removable cartridge bearings.

Yeap, the dust cup came off!
One would be inclined to pry it out through the cone race side but it comes out easily over the hex nut head once it is rotated into the right position. It shouldn't be difficult to find a cone of similar dimensions, but not many are made with hex head and the groove in the right place

This is the actual Shimano tool. But it costs half as much a a new hub! Those headset spanners are much better.

https://www.godleyscycles.co.uk/worksho ... 6mm-p24487

I noticed that the cap nut can be driven with various tools, but risk of denting and deforming the nut is very hight. It is aluminium and there is a minimal amount of material between the nut sides and the inner bore. Even a regular bihexagonal ring spanner will provide an adequate grip to drive the nut but not tighten it properly. When it comes to undoing it, my old hub was very tight while the new one I got was very easy to open up.

The plastic dust cap seems to be melted into place somehow, it won't even rotate around the cone. Other than that there should be quite a few Shimano cones with that thread, and I presume the race curvature should be the same for all cones that take the same size bearing balls, or is it?

That Kasai hub looks like a very good solution. It has cartridge instead of cone bearings, but in the end of the day it all comes down to the quality of the bearings they use and if they are standard size that can be easily replaced or, better, improved with good bearings from a reputable manufacturer.

Just wonder, it is field serviceable, why do you need this?:

https://southerndistributors.co.uk/prod ... p-remover/