Cycling UK Forum

Almax9633 wrote:Your help in collecting evidence of the testing bodies inept testing standards, can only help in the fight against crime! Maybe even get the testing standards raised!
Alex

I think your expectations of what a lock is capable of are too high.
Sold Secure are an independent body, working alongside the police and insurance companies to ensure the testing methods match the methods used by thieves. A Gold standard bicycle lock will resist these methods for 5 minuets. This may not sound a lot, but it's a higher level of security than most residential front doors and many cars. They could of course make better locks, the trade off would be weight and convenience. A motorcycle chain weighing 4kg will offer around 10 minuets protection. Using several different locks will take longer to beat than one big one, at the price of convenience. Lightweight locks are useful to stop the casual thief from just walking off with your bike, their protection against a determined thief can probably be measured in seconds.
I've had a bike stolen whilst locked in Derby City centre with a SS Silver rated lock, it had been left in a busy spot for less than half an hour. There was no sign of the lock or indication of how it had been beaten. It was a shame but not really a surprise, it was insured and replaced by the insurance company, which is the only real protection from loss.

Where abouts are you?
Several bike shops offer a fitting service, usually using a jig, your compact frame will cover a fair range of sizes (that's why manufacturers like them) Correct stem and handlebars, seat post length, saddle position and cranks will all contribute to it being right.
The only fitting service I've used is Paul Hewitt, if you're not buying a bike I think he charges £30, could be a good investment.

AlbionLass wrote:You could have Mercian build you a custon fitted frame and build it up yourself for not much more than buying something like a Super Galaxy.
(What I'm doing as I find most 'off the peg' bikes in my budget to be too much of a compromise in one area or another.

I'm sure your Mercian will be a fantastic bike and buying the wrong bike is never good value at any price. But you're not comparing like with like. I considered a Mercian before getting the Hewitt, for the same tube set and components the price was +£360 or +35% and I could have bought a Super Galaxy even cheaper.

JW123 wrote:The Thorn Club Tour and Bob Jackson Audax Club look appealing at the moment.

I'd add Paul Hewitt to that list, his website is dreadful and has claimed to be being rebuilt for a year, but the shop and service are in complete contrast.
http://www.hewittcycles.co.uk/_bikefitt ... /index.htm

For the same sort of money as a Thorn or Bob Jackson, you'll get an imported frame, touring or Audax, finished and painted in the UK to order, your choice of components, wheels built by one of the top wheelbuilders in the country and the icing on the cake, a thorough fitting session that ensures comfort.
If you're lucky enough to be the right size, the one for sale on this forum is worth a look.
Here’s mine
http://forum.ctc.org.uk/userpix/468_hewitt_1.jpg

I've stayed in a few places in the area, the most recent and closest to Bangor was the Caban Cysgu Gerlan, near Bethesda and about 7 miles from Bangor.
http://www.cabancysgu-gerlan.co.uk/
It was very well equipped without being over done, they could teach the YHA a few lessons. The only problem with this and other shared accomodation in the area is who you end up sharing with, I've found groups of climbers can be LOUD! This place has some smaller rooms, 4 of us had sole use of a 5 bed room, which can be better than some of the large dorms elsewhere.
I thought we paid a tenner, but the website says from £12.50...still good value.

Worth a read;
http://www.ctc.org.uk/DesktopDefault.aspx?TabID=3598

I would really like to buy a bike made in the UK (i.e. a UK frame), any recommendations?

You're not going to get a bike with a UK made frame for anything like the price of a Tricross. The cheaper Reynolds tubed frames (Dawes, Thorn, Hewitt, Claude Butler...) are made where labour is cheaper, as are most aluminium frames. Not that that affects quality, I'm happy with my Thorn and Hewitt.

Chrome wrote:2) Create a complicated 'interface' - design the gearshift to exclude dropped bars (50% of bikes?).

Some people love them, some hate them and some just don't get it.
There's nothing complicated about the "interface" up is up, down is down and there's no indexing on the shifter, what could be simpler?
In the US road bikes account for around 8% of sales* and that includes flat bar road bikes. I expect it's about the same in Europe. I doubt it's even half that worldwide.

I'd need a longer longevity just to contemplate using it and +25% is not a lot longer.

I'm getting 300% chain life from a 50% cheaper chain. At least 400% from the cheaper rear sprocket/s (you can't reverse a cassette) and more than I can calculate on the front. Add too that almost zero maintenance, saving an hour plus a week, how would you value that?
The price difference between my Thorn Raven and their derailleur equivalent was £300. Before buying I reckoned it would take 5 years to recoup that, 2.5 years in I'm about on course. then it'll be a decent saving every year after that. 20 year hub life = £900 saving = a new bike

*Source: Bicycle Retailer and Industry News 2003

nobby wrote: Which hubs and rims should I use?

It'd be a shame to have the Hewitt frame and not get his wheels as well. The wheels that came with mine, DRC rims on XT and Schmidt hubs are the only ones I've ever had where the build outlasted the rims, they didn't need touching in 12,000 miles.

Which levers now?

My favourite for flat bars are the converted bar ends, easy to fit and maintain, trouble free friction on the front and friction option on the rear, not the cheapest but will last longer than anything else available. I've used the Pauls Components version, SJS now do their own which are cheaper than importing.
http://www.sjscycles.co.uk/product-SJSC ... -11836.htm

Which bottom bracket

The top quality Shimano one (UN72?) is cheap enough and lasts well, I can't see the point in spending more. Same with mechs, XT do the job, last well and are good value.

The wheels will be shod with Vittoria Randonneur 700c

I have a pair of these (32mm). I use them in the winter, for loaded touring and off road. I find they're hard wearing, grip well and are pretty puncture resistant. For summer road riding I switch to 28mm GP4000 4S which makes it like riding another bike.

Here's one that does,
http://www.tout-terrain.de/cms/upload/r ... usstat.jpg

I recently saw a solid looking bar bag/box, black, about the size of the normal Ortlieb, with a useful looking light fitting built into the lid. I only saw it at a glance so can’t be more descriptive than that. I've had a couple of goes at googling for it without success. Anyone else seen one? Any info?
Thanks

With a fair bit of riding gravel tracks and use all year round;
The decent quality chains on my derailleur bikes last around 5,000 miles with regular removal and cleaning.
The original chain on my Rohloff (a cheap SRAM) lasted 13,000 miles with minimal cleaning and without ever being removed.

It seems the broken flanges are a result of a manufacturing defect. As such I would expect it to end in the same result whether on a tandem or solo, maybe quicker on a tandem. I was aware that this sometimes happened before buying a Raven, just as I was aware of all the other things that can go wrong with a bike.
Three things persuaded me not to let it put me off;
In the cases I've heard about the bikes have remained rideable, even loaded.
Rohloff dealt with it very quickly and I was assured this would be the case whatever the age of the hub.
And the owners of failed flanges have still continued to use Rohloffs. In this latest case I note the owner, despite having the option of a full refund, is getting a replacement.

bikepacker wrote:If you have had good service from your Ortliebs, why consider any others?

the shape gives more heel clearance than Ortliebs and the hooks fit different size rack tubing

ones that have a roll top and a lid with a mesh pocket

Different products different features, brand loyalty is fine, but not a reason to exclude something that may be more suitable.

My Ortieb front rollers have served me well for 6 years of almost daily use. Now I’m looking for something larger and there’s other makes using the same material and manufacturing methods. I like the look of the Vaude Tramps, the shape gives more heel clearance than Ortliebs and the hooks fit different size rack tubing (A feature of Ortlieb Plus but an expensive modification on Classics).
http://www.gearshift.co.uk/acatalog/info_WAARP1new.html
I’m also tempted by the dhb ones that have a roll top and a lid with a mesh pocket. But unlike the Vaudes which have a good reputation I know nothing of these.
http://www.wiggle.co.uk/images/dhb%20pa ... posite.jpg

I use an Ortlieb bar bag with the extension piece, I found it was more than needed, so I trimmed it down. Not all auxiliary levers are the same size, I found the Salsa ones take up less room, though I only got to see those stocked locally. I have the levers angled down the same way as I would with straight bar levers. You will notice an affect on steering, I found it easy to get used too and like to keep the weight in the bag reasonable, camera, map, wallet and nibbles. IMO it was well worth the trouble, the braking from the top levers is better than from the hoods and at least as good as from the drops (Campag Ergos & Tektro cantis) I use these levers nearly all the time.