Cycling UK Forum

Jdsk wrote: ↑11 Nov 2021, 9:46am What hasn't come up...

... safety issues.

... using a smart 'phone as a satnav device can mean one less piece of technology. Ditto camera.

... all of the other things that a smart 'phone can do.

Jonathan

I hear using a phone as a satnave is quite draining, meaning you have to charge with your dynamo hub, all day...

PhilD28 wrote: ↑24 Nov 2021, 2:56pm

What height are you. Tube length has far more effect on stiffness than wall thickness, as does the amount of load the frame is intended to carry. Is this frame to be used for day touring, B&B/hostelling, or camping touring. These are questions of more importance than the difference of 0.1mm in wall thickness.

I would agree that Lee Cooper really knows his stuff and will certainly have had some input in any frame design he is building for OBW.

Another option is to look at Thorns frames, they are made in Taiwan but to the highest standards using excellent tubing, their frames are designed from many years of real touring experience using Rohloff hubs. Both their Raven and Mercury are excellent choices.

I'm 6ft. I imagine using the bike for heavy loads, and travelling to the horizon, and beyond. An indefinite length trip, working on organic farms along the way. Well, at least that was my original thought. It is my retirement plan. Low-carbon transport, working for food and board, and wild camping along the way. So, I prefer the bike to be flexible, allowing me to do the world tour.

The alternative is also travelling around scotland, living in bothies, and using bike to get to shops.


I watch the guy on cycling about, who has his super duper Koga world traveller. But, I've heard mixed views about belt drives. Chains can get replaced anywhere, without hte need to going into town to order more parts. I will have a dynamo hub, but not much else except audible books and music. Maybe power a camera.


I even looked at the titanium pioneer. A bit shiny, more nickable.

I thought the OBW bike, designed by Tom Allan, had its advantages over the Thorn Nomad... notably chris king headset. But maybe other brands are better?

But I haven't ever had a touring bike before. Never toured. But have OCD, and find myself compelled down the road of getting the world touring bike, in a covid pandemic. I watched a video of a guy on a bike doing a three - year trip on you tube. I thought Canada, where I used to live. I thought south america to Canada... to the Yukon, where I used to be a goat herder. I'm 51 now. So best adopt this low carbon life style sooner than later, and go meet people on Organic Farms, and maybe do some environmental research on the way.


Just thoughts.... Sounds like the majority prefer the thicker, generic tubing.

Thank you, one and all. I have to finalise my decision by 20th december.

Thanks everyone. That is certainly food for thought.

I live on the north end of skye, so just focused on one manufacturer. I am going on the OBW. Its expensive, and I haven't done any touring before. But I am also OCD, which worries me, as I have to get the best bike I can, and do not reason things out too well.

Still stuck on belt drives vs chains, as well. OBW does not seem to like the belt drives, saying it weakens the frame, and they are not so great. The go who does cycling about, and is sponsured by Koga, loves them. Maybe another thread, but will search forum first.

Thanks again.

PS. Maybe I will end up having a bike to sell after I buy it. Any offers?

Hi Everyone...

I was about to purchase the bike, but the tubing offered is now different.
Originally it was REynolds 525. Now a generic steel is offered, or the Reynolds at at £90 premium. The bike prices are going through the roof, and the Rohloff Hub has increased significantly, So I am anxious to buy bike soon.


As regards the tubing (according to Oxford Bike Works):

The generic tube material is identical in composition. Reynolds 525 has tube thicknesses of 0.8mm at the butts and 0.5mm in the centres of the tubes.
The generic tubing is 0.9mm at the butts and 0.6mm in the centres. This translates to a 90g weight difference, but an increase in strength. If you would prefer the Reynolds tubing, that is now a £90 option.


Would you go for the reynolds or generic? I do intend to tour everywhere with the bike.

Best wishes


Nick

Thanks everyone..

I will buy the bike, and tour UK, and IReland.... build up these old legs. REally appreciate your thoughts..

Have a great Christmas.

Hi, this is probably covered elsewhere, but, when will expedition travel be possible to other continents?

Any thoughts?

Or should I hang up my plans for a bicycle?

Bonefishblues wrote: ↑9 Apr 2021, 8:57am

markjohnobrien wrote: ↑9 Apr 2021, 8:45am Dave Yates was very clear that, in his opinion, he preferred Reynolds 525/520 (one made in Britain: the other under licence in Taiwan but the same tubing) for touring bikes as having thicker walls (compared to 725) made it more resistant to dents that some touring bikes pick up.

He said that 725 was nice, built lots of bikes with it, but absolutely nothing wrong with 520/525 and he custom built enormous amounts of frames.

So, not a game changer.

Your post made me revisit the link I posted a few posts earlier. I posted the wrong one!

Here's what I meant to post, which is touring specific:

https://www.bretonbikes.com/homepage/cy ... e-tourists

Great article... thanks.

Thanks everyone for the links to SJS and eBay.

I've been looking at the Thorn and they are priced roughly the same as an OBW, once you upgrade to a Chris King Headset.

I like the thorn frame because they accomodate upto 2.5 " wheels. Is that even important?

Also, the frame is made from Reynolds 725 steel, as opposed to 525 on the OBW. Again, is this a game changer?

These second hand bikes are going for £2000, and as an equivlaent new is £3000, I am unsure what is best.

The OBW looks good in terms of spec (as far as I can tell), but the narrower tyre allowance and inferior steel puts me off.

Still a bit clueless, but taking my time and not rushing. Still haven't decided whether disc brakes are a good thing or bad thing.

Its absolutely fabulous, all the help I have got. But I question, what's wrong with the OBW spec? What would you change?


The foillowing is the spec for a non-roloff verstion


Frame: Oxford Bike Works 26” cromoly touring/expedition frame (Reynolds 525)

Forks: Oxford Bike Works cromoly touring forks

Steering stabiliser: a modified Hebie 695

Colour: Choice of Grey (RAL 7026), Red (RAL3020) or Olive green RAL7013 (custom colours available)

Headset: Chris King NoThreadSet 1 1/8”, black

Rear Mech: Shimano Deore RD-M592, top normal, long cage, black

Front Mech: Shimano Deore FD-T6000, dual pull, low clamp, black

Cassette: Shimano CS-HG41-8sp, 11-34T, 8-speed

Shifter Levers: Microshift SL-M08, friction front, 8sp indexed/friction rear with cable adjuster

Chainset: Shimano FC-M361, 170-175mm, 22-32-42T

Bottom Bracket: Shimano BB-UN300, 68mm, English thread

Chain: KMC X8.99

Rims: Ryde Sputnik 26” (559), 36H, Schrader drilled or Andra 30 36h

Front Hub: Shimano Deore HB-T610-S, 36H

Rear Freehub: Shimano Deore FH-T610-S, 36H

Spokes: Sapim Race DB (front, rear non-driveside), Sapim Leader PG (rear driveside)

Rim Tape: Schwalbe 19mm rimtape

Skewers: 5mm Allen key non-QR

Tyres: Schwalbe Marathon Plus Tours 26x1.75” with SmartGuard

Innertubes: Schwalbe AV12, 26”, Schrader valve

Brake Levers: Shimano BL-R2000, black

Brake Calipers: Shimano Deore BR-T610-L, black

Brake Shoes: Shimano S70C with cartridge shoe inserts (re-order code Y-8A2 98030)

Pedals: MKS MT-Lite pedals (Shimano PD-M324, combination SPD/flat available as upgrade)

Saddle: Brooks B17 Brown or Terry Fisio Gel (Man or Woman)

Seatpost: Ergotec 5 Black 350mm 27.2mm diameter

Handlebars: Ergotec 57-63cm

Stem: Ergotec 60 - 130mm

Grips: Ergon GP5

Bar-Ends: Ergon GP5

Rear Carrier Rack: Tubus Logo

Front Lowrider: Tubus Tara

Mudguards: SKS Black, 26x1.5-2.2”,

Extras: Marine-grade stainless steel bolt replacements, , OBW steerer-tube bell, spares package

There is so much conflicting messages about belt drives. The chap from cycling about loves them.

https://www.cyclingabout.com/belt-drive-best-bicycle-drivetrain/

Thorn, until recently, refused to fit them. https://www.cyclingabout.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/06/Belt-Drive-Thorn-Cycles.jpg

Perhaps cycling about, being koga sponsored, gets a load of replacements and free replacements?

Its really hard to find the answer in all these polarised opinions, being a newbie.

I think the only thing I have decided on its the Chris King Headset... apparently, there is no better.

I am thinking something that can handle a bit of off road as well, like the guy from cycling about does. So, am I thinking 26 inch wheels. Thorn nomad accommodates 2.5" tyres, OBW accommodates 2.1"? Would 2.1 inch tires be enough? Or is 1.9" good?

There are just too many variables for the beginner to gain meaningful insight into.

doodah wrote:
I hope this answers your question - sorry for the long winded reply but some things are not so simple to answer - yes or no - or I dunno!


Cheers

Doodah

Thank you for the in depth reply. I am learning from everyone's kind replies.

It seems the way to go is buy a second hand bike for about £1000 - £1500. However, it's waiting for the right one to come along. And I'm desperately in need of a bike for exercise.

Still, when down near York, I will PM you, and take you up on your kind offer.

Finally, you said you would go with a belt drive for your RTW tour? Heard it weakens the frame. Any thoughts?



BikeBuddha

doodah wrote:
I read Tom Allen's book and he recommends, and helped design, the Oxford Bike Works Expedition model.
I also read Tom Allen's book, I also visited Oxford Bike Works. I bought a Thorn Raven!!

So why buy a Thorn Raven over an OBW? Why not a Thorn Nomad? And what brand of wellies do you recommend?

doodah wrote:
I hope we can all help him in his determination to achieve his dream - even Sweep has come up with an app for a brothel - how good is that? Depending on where Bike Buddha is in the world, he may have enough money left over for a couple of weeks in a brothel, let alone a couple on nights.

Doodah

Doodah, I am grateful for your offer of borrowing a bike. And yes, I might just take you up on it if able. I don't like driving, so would have to bus/train it down....

The OBW Exhibition has a ten-week waiting list. ITs expensive, and would probably preclude visiting brothels on route. Though your kind consideration in this area is noted... it must get awful lonely on the open road. However, I will definitely pack some wellies. Do they also work on Llamas?

Bonefishblues wrote:I think it may be of relevance that the OP intends to do the trip as a series of legs between spells working on organic farms, as opposed to a single pedalled event. Now those farms may be a continent apart perhaps, or more frequent, it would be interesting to know.

I must confess, in that context I'm much less in the 'learn your trade' camp, which would have the OP do a series of tours before the big one, spending 2-3 years deciding the pros and cons of each and every nut and widget. Sure careful thought needs to be given to the bike, but there really are several suppliers in the UK, and others overseas, which will equip an explorer with what he or she needs, leveraging their own considerable experience (OBW, Thorn, Stanforth immediately spring to mind in the UK).

Everything is a bit up in the air. I had the idea two years ago, but because of the difficulty of choosing a bike, I didn't buy a bike and tour. I've wwoofed before, though, in Canada for over a year. I was a goat herder in the Yukon, as part of it. In truth, I no next to nothing about bikes, and looked at the OBW expedition after reading Tom Allen's book. After test riding one briefly (an hour), I thought that it would do.

I don't exactly have a fixed place to stay, or a base from which to tour. So, I was thinking of just buying a bike that would do the job. It is a lot of money, though......... but I know i want a rohloff hub.

I'm unsure how I will do several tours before hand, except around UK, and Scotland, where I live. But if you invest in a bike for £1500, second hand, and the new one costs around £3000, there is a sizeable difference. But the OBW seems to be a really good bike that would last me years.

I'm also impatient, impulsive, and indecisive at the same time.

willem jongman wrote:

Bonefishblues wrote:

willem jongman wrote:To be sure, I am not suggesting that you should not buy a nice expensive bike, on the contrary. I am only suggesting not just now, until you know more. Spend a few hundred pounds, and go. After a year or two when you know what suits you, sell that second hand bike and spend big.

What are the lessons that the OP should focus on during the intervening years?

1 Does he actually like cycle touring?
Not a clue. Never done it.

2 What kind of roads? Mostly tarmac or off road?
I'd like some off road capacity.

3 How much luggage?
Clothe, tent, cooking gear..a mobile phone and a kindle

4 Frame style, aluminium vs steel?
Everyone says steel...

5 Geometry
Clueless here

6 Wheel/tyre size
Heard 26 " wheels are the strongest...

7 Drop bar or straight
STraight

8 Lights and hub generator
This is probably a good idea?

9 Prefered style of pedals
Not a clue


Not a clue what I am doing. Have real difficulty with decision making, but just acting on instinct, really. Need an alternative way of living.

I read Tom Allen's book and he recommends, and helped design, the Oxford Bike Works Expedition model.

I also test rode a bike for an hour, unladen. It road well and I enjoyed it.

willem jongman wrote:And once you know what you like, why not spend big on a custom bike with a finely crafted made to measure frame? It is what I did a decade ago, and I have never regretted it. But this was after decades of cycle touring. In my case, a custom m-gineering steel frame, 26 inch wheel size and clearance for wide tyres, chain drive, Rohloff and SON hubs, Nitto drop bar, Magura HS66 hydraulic rim brakes, TA cranks, etc. It was not cheap, but not more expensive than premium off the peg brands in the Netherlands, and far more elegant. I bought it as my last loaded tourer, and I am sure that is what it will be. My only remaining bike wish is a fast lightweight custom derailleur bike for spirited local rides, perhaps audax, and credit card tours. I am saving for one, but it will not be cheap either.

That sounds wonderful.... I am 50, and running short of time..... and am thinking of just working my way around the world, working on wwoofing and work away...

Where did you get the custom build?

I'm looking at £3600 for expedition bike with rohloff hub, handbuilt wheels, SON hubs (thats the dynamo, isn't it?), USB charger, ortileb panniers and bar bag... and the following specs (This is the derailler model, so ignore some of the derailler stuff)


Frame: Oxford Bike Works 26” cromoly touring/expedition frame (Reynolds 525)

Forks: Oxford Bike Works cromoly touring forks

Steering stabiliser: a modified Hebie 695

Colour: Choice of Grey (RAL 7026), Red (RAL3020) or Olive green RAL7013 (custom colours available)

Headset: Chris King NoThreadSet 1 1/8”, black

Rear Mech: Shimano Deore RD-M592, top normal, long cage, black

Front Mech: Shimano Deore FD-T6000, dual pull, low clamp, black

Cassette: Shimano CS-HG41-8sp, 11-34T, 8-speed

Shifter Levers: Microshift SL-M08, friction front, 8sp indexed/friction rear with cable adjuster

Chainset: Shimano FC-M361, 170-175mm, 22-32-42T

Bottom Bracket: Shimano BB-UN300, 68mm, English thread

Chain: KMC X8.99

Rims: Ryde Sputnik 26” (559), 36H, Schrader drilled or Andra 30 36h

Front Hub: Shimano Deore HB-T610-S, 36H

Rear Freehub: Shimano Deore FH-T610-S, 36H

Spokes: Sapim Race DB (front, rear non-driveside), Sapim Leader PG (rear driveside)

Rim Tape: Schwalbe 19mm rimtape

Skewers: 5mm Allen key non-QR

Tyres: Schwalbe Marathon Plus Tours 26x1.75” with SmartGuard

Innertubes: Schwalbe AV12, 26”, Schrader valve

Brake Levers: Shimano BL-R2000, black

Brake Calipers: Shimano Deore BR-T610-L, black

Brake Shoes: Shimano S70C with cartridge shoe inserts (re-order code Y-8A2 98030)

Pedals: MKS MT-Lite pedals (Shimano PD-M324, combination SPD/flat available as upgrade)

Saddle: Brooks B17 Brown or Terry Fisio Gel (Man or Woman)

Seatpost: Ergotec 5 Black 350mm 27.2mm diameter

Handlebars: Ergotec 57-63cm

Stem: Ergotec 60 - 130mm

Grips: Ergon GP5

Bar-Ends: Ergon GP5

Rear Carrier Rack: Tubus Logo

Front Lowrider: Tubus Tara

Mudguards: SKS Black, 26x1.5-2.2”,

Extras: Marine-grade stainless steel bolt replacements, , OBW steerer-tube bell, spares package