Cycling UK Forum

Surely, it's not that difficult to set the correct preload. Tighten til it feels just right when spinning/moving by hand, and back off a quarter turn.

Just a built a wheelset with Mavic A319. Will fit tyres 28-47mm. 36 spoke, though 32 available.

Have serviced both front hubs back to back I can say the M785 is much easier to work with than the M756.

Lesson for next time...make a cup of tea and revisit after a refreshment break.

Brucey wrote:

Cyclewala wrote:I'm trying to service a front wheel I'm about to use for the first time....

why are you guessing or thinking about using mole grips when shimano publish a nice document that tells you exactly what to do?

https://si.shimano.com/pdfs/si/SI-3TG0A-002-ENG.pdf

cheers

That's what happens when trying to do fiddly jobs at 10.30pm. Can't see the wood for the trees.

I just serviced an M756 hub before it and was expecting this to be the same.

Thanks all.

Yes, thanks for confirming. I just worked it out from a Shimano tech doc.

Attached a better photo from SJS cycles:

I'm trying to service a front wheel I'm about to use for the first time, and noticed the locknut is different to those Shimano ones I've seen before. They're silver and circular on both sides. There doesn't appear anywhere to allow the spanner to grip them. If fact, one side (disc side) is also cut in like a shallow river bed.

Do I need special tools for these? Was going to use mole grips but thought I'd check in case I bust the locknuts.

Model Shimano XT M785 centre lock.

That's the sort of stove I was thinking of.

Does one have to use special pots and pans? I understand Trangia are made of aluminium which don't like wood flame - I read they get black.

Are there stoves that can easily interchange between gas (or meths) and wood?

I know gas is most efficient, but like the option to be able to burn wood if fuel runs out or I'm somewhere remote.

Seen an American cycletourist on Youtube collecting grass, bark and acorns during the day's ride for the evening fire.

I can see this working in warm countries but how feasible would this be in damp Britain?

Shimano recommend 9 sp chains for use with Alfine. I've tried single speed and whilst it works, I found it noisy. This maybe because I'm running the Alfine cog and chainset, both of which have a chainguard.

KMC Z1 is a cheap single speed chain and can be had for around £6.

Of 9 speeds, it's a case of seeing what's on offer. Last year, when parts were plentiful and cheap, I bought a handful of Shimano HG50 for £5.50 each.

CyclingMikey, or BentMikey as he was known due to riding a recumbent, was a regular poster on the other forum a few years ago.

He started off making videos to highlight poor cycling. So, his videos were aimed at educating cyclists to ride better i.e. avoid the gutter , taking the lane etc.

He then moved to pointing out inconsiderate driving and phone use, before moving into the realms of traffic police. Some of his videos, whilst well intentioned, appear quite hostile and do nothing to nurture a positive motorist-cyclist relationship.

peetee wrote:SRAM rely heavily on marketing 1x systems with groups offering up to 12 sprockets. There is little difference between cross-chaining and expecting a chain to operate efficiently and smoothly on such a single chainring system. No wonder then that they don’t poo-poo cross-chaining.

I think this explains SRAM's motivation quite well.

BTW, it's a great bag. I've got several Carradice bags and this is my favourite. Well made, slides on and off quickly and is very robust.

The only possible limitation is Carradice advise you don't mount on a carbon fibre seat post. Having said that, there are plenty of examples of people doing this on the internet.

The rationale for the 25 cm gap is the way the bag fits. You go onto the mount horizontally from the bottom, so the bag opening will point towards the wheel.

You then slide upwards on the mount, with the bag opening leaning towards the saddle tail.

You then slide it down to its natural position to click in.

So, I think the 25cms could apply from saddle tail to the northwest section of the wheel, but to be safe you should measure from top of seat post to the northwest corner of the wheel.

This video is a good indicator of how much space you need:

https://images.app.goo.gl/o7iNkUHmmc4k91Pg8

Like a lot of things, it's easy if you know how. Buy if you don't, it's easy to get it wrong and make the issue much worse.

Plenty of online videos. Just follow them and work in small changes.