Cycling UK Forum

alexnharvey wrote:Would a pedal washer or two move the foot out sufficiently?

woodworm wrote:Yes I’m using SPD SL pedals so the extensions would definitely reposition my feet.
I don’t think spacing washers would give enough clearance for the Specialized winter boots I want to use and I don’t think the Ultegra pedals that are available with a 4mm longer axle option would give quite enough either. I have seen some 15mm ones which I think would suit but I’m just a bit wary of messing with what is currently a comfortable position.

Paulatic wrote:I wonder , if you fit extenders, will you naturally place your feet wider?
I’d of thought not and you’ll just put your feet were they were and have a bit of outer pedal sticking out.

cyclop wrote:The crank isn,t moving and I noticed it a week or so ago,since when I,ve ridden 60 odd miles on the old bike.No idea what version of octalink.Will ride on for the time being.Cheers.

The utility cyclist wrote:I really don't think the weight of the bike contributes much if anything to the actual learning process, there are many more factors that have a greater impact IME and you touched on two of them yourself.

mattsccm wrote:Interesting. I make no comment about quality . Description of shift sounds a bit like SRAM Double tap. Might suit some one keeping 9 speed going.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/SENSAH-STI-2 ... %3D1110002

Marcus Aurelius wrote:

thatsnotmyname wrote:

Marcus Aurelius wrote:The two most critical, and easily adjusted geometry parameters for comfort and handling / aero and efficiency are the stack and reach measurements. A lot of pro riders actually spec bikes that would be too small for them ordinarily, then put super long stems ( 150 and 160 mm stems aren’t unusual in the pro peloton) and no spacers, and cut steerer tubes, to get suitable stack / reach for them. For most mere mortals the slammed stacks and super long stems they use to get the requisite stack and reach to make their positions as aero and efficient as possible, would really hurt. Unless you want to go extreme, and your bike is pretty much the right size to start off with, a few degrees / mm length, and a couple of mm of spacers, really won’t make a noticeable difference.

I would disregard the above, as it completely misunderstands and confuses what ‘stack and reach’ actually are in geometry terms. They are fixed measurements on a frame, so cannot be adjusted.

They effectively can, and are. You really don’t have a clue about anything do you?

Marcus Aurelius wrote:The two most critical, and easily adjusted geometry parameters for comfort and handling / aero and efficiency are the stack and reach measurements. A lot of pro riders actually spec bikes that would be too small for them ordinarily, then put super long stems ( 150 and 160 mm stems aren’t unusual in the pro peloton) and no spacers, and cut steerer tubes, to get suitable stack / reach for them. For most mere mortals the slammed stacks and super long stems they use to get the requisite stack and reach to make their positions as aero and efficient as possible, would really hurt. Unless you want to go extreme, and your bike is pretty much the right size to start off with, a few degrees / mm length, and a couple of mm of spacers, really won’t make a noticeable difference.

Marcus Aurelius wrote:Quite right.
As the old adage says “you can’t teach an old cog new links” and vice versa ( to a lesser extent ). Chains and sprockets ‘mesh’ and wear in unison. If you change one half of the equation with out the other, you get problems. As the new ‘equation’ balances, you get increased wear on the new bits.