Search found 795 matches

by 7_lives_left
29 May 2008, 12:07am
Forum: Does anyone know … ?
Topic: Getting back on bike
Replies: 9
Views: 1090

One thing I have done following a tumble/crash is to try to get back to the site where it happened as soon as I am physically able, walking if necessary. I like to do this on my own, without any family helping me because they don't necessarily appreciate what I am doing, which is trying to sort my head out.

When I get to where it happened, I try to work out how I fell, where I ended up, where the bike ended up, where any other vehicles involved were.

If it was down to a mistake I made, I have a think about how I should be changing my behavior so that it doesn't happen again.

If it was down to a mistake someone in another vehicle made, I take the opportunity to feel some righteous anger, then again I have a think about how I should be changing my behavior so that it doesn't happen again.

The emphasis is to work out what I can do to protect myself next time. I usually have a browse through the John Franklin's Cyclecraft book because you can almost always find some relevant advice there.

Finally when I do manage to get back on the bike, the first place I go is back to site where the incident happened to try to put into practice what I have learned.

I don't know if this makes sense, but it seems to work for me.

Good luck and don't let this one incident spoil your cycling fun.
by 7_lives_left
27 May 2008, 11:07pm
Forum: Does anyone know … ?
Topic: Any experience with KOGA MIYATA cycles ?
Replies: 13
Views: 3726

stevew wrote:Notwithstanding any of that I will still put my money on the fact that the attitude of the bike will have no effect whatsoever on the operation of the brakes. Upside down will be fine.

Please let me know the result of your inverting experiment !!

You were right. I inverted the bike for ten minutes, then tried the brakes, they're fine. Thanks for setting me straight on that.

That should make life much simpler the next time that rear wheel deflates...
by 7_lives_left
26 May 2008, 7:20pm
Forum: Does anyone know … ?
Topic: Any experience with KOGA MIYATA cycles ?
Replies: 13
Views: 3726

@Manx Cat
The wheels are 700c (sometimes called ISO 622 ? jargon confuses me too).

stevew wrote:Are you sure 7 lives ? I have magura hydraulic rim brakes on two of my bikes and no such problem. The hydraulic system is sealed and there is no air in it. If there was any air in it it wouldn't work !!
You should be able to do anything you want with the bike including turn it upside down.
Have you tried turning it upside down or is that just your hunch ?

No, I haven't dared.

I though I read something cautioning against turning the bike upside down in the Shimano Service instructions, but now I look again I don't see it.

Looking at the Koga Instruction manual I read: "When putting away your bike upside down or when transporting it for a long period of time, check the brake mechanism for its proper functioning and bleed it, if necessary".

It looks like I am perhaps being a bit paranoid :). That last bit might just be Koga covering their backs. It would certainly make my life easier if I can turn the bike upside down. I'll give it a try. If the brakes don't work, I will know not do the same when I am stopped on the road side.
by 7_lives_left
26 May 2008, 6:05pm
Forum: On the road
Topic: fun ride home
Replies: 13
Views: 1664

I was heading home on Saturday on some road to the north of Reading. It was wooded, up hill, maybe 1 in 12 gradient. A chap on a race bike nonchalantly pulls past me and we exchange hellos. Then I see that he has something printed on his dayglow yellow jersey: A name, his I presume; a date, May 2002?; and finally "Aged 70".

My instinct is to chase him down, but he is 76. I have a 30 plus years advantage on him. What do I prove if I pull past him? Plus it looks like he could maybe hold me off! :)
by 7_lives_left
24 May 2008, 8:27pm
Forum: Does anyone know … ?
Topic: Any experience with KOGA MIYATA cycles ?
Replies: 13
Views: 3726

I bought a Koga Miyata Infiniti (sic) in August last year. I have been using it for commuting into work, carrying the shopping, and for recreation at the week end. I have been immensely pleased with it. I bought it from Walton Street Cycles in Oxford, close by where I live. (

My model isn't a traditional touring bike. It has disk brakes and hub gears and as a consequence straight bars. But Koga do other models of touring bike. I remember seeing one of these in the store. The most striking feature was the bars. Butterfly bars with triathlon bar attachments. They looked like giant deer antlers, though I am sure they were very comfortable and practical. Maybe just a bit OTT for commuting.

I would say the bike was a bit pricey. But it is also beautiful and functional. And fully equipped, I am riding the bike as it left the factory, I haven't had to add or change any of the equipment. And it was even legal as it had reflectors fitted to the pedals!

It also came with a goodie box. This contained some trinkets (pen, keyring), a few tools, a set of cleats to match the pedals, a general instruction manual, and paper work for several of the components that had been assembled into the bike. Most manufacturers would just bin the paper work, but the customer is going to be doing maintenance on the bike and Koga can put the papers in the box, so they do. Genius!

The bike isn't perfect. The biggest problem is rear punctures .The alfine hub gears are fiendish to connect/disconnect from the gear cable. And you can't turn the bike upside down (because then you get air locks in the hydraulic brakes) so you have no choice but to drop the bike in the dirt on the chain and jockey wheels of the chain tensioner. Fortunately I have only punctured 3 times in 9 months (Schwalbe Marathon Plus tyres, you got to love them).

Also it has an aluminium frame. You feel every bump and pot hole. The other Koga touring bikes are steel frames which are more comfortable.

Edit: Oh, and when they had the riders at Manchester Velodrome a little while back, all the Dutch riders were equipped with Koga bikes, with orange frames!

Edit2: "I bought at Koga..." -> "I bought a Koga..."
by 7_lives_left
22 May 2008, 6:21pm
Forum: On the road
Topic: Food to eat on the road
Replies: 34
Views: 3977

Lawrie9 wrote:Rabbit and squirrel are very good especially in a stew.

Are these foods that you find 'on the road'?

I once saw a pheasant run over by a car going in the opposite direction. It died just as I reached it, so I stopped, tied it to the pannier rack, and dropped it in at the next pub I came across. I don't eat meat myself, but it seemed a shame to waste it. The barman said he new someone who would use it.

I am not sure I would I would pick up a pheasant that I hadn't seen being freshly dispatched. You wouldn't know how long it had been there.
by 7_lives_left
20 May 2008, 7:11pm
Forum: Does anyone know … ?
Topic: Dropped bars
Replies: 33
Views: 4747

andwags wrote:7_lifes_left... what happened to your other two

A couple of big crashes. I believe aircraft pilots have a saying that goes something like "Any landing you can walk away from is a good landing". I did not land well. The first I was using drop bars, the second straight bars, so can't draw any conclusions there, except perhaps that I am accident prone :).

@Jeckyll-n-Snyde, those top bar safety levers look neat.
by 7_lives_left
17 May 2008, 9:18pm
Forum: Bikes & Bits – Technical section
Topic: Toe / wheel overlap?
Replies: 42
Views: 6136

I made some measurements on my stable of (mostly broken) bikes.

All the bikes have 170 mm cranks. All the wheels are 700c.

1998 Dawes Horizon 57cm (Broken frame, not ridable)

700x28c tyres, pedal spindle to mudguard 95mm, mudguard to tyre 17mm

Orbit Orion 57cm frame

700x35 tyres, pedal spindle to mudgaurd 100mm, mudguard to tyre 15mm

Koga-Miyata Infiniti 54cm

700x32 tyres, pedal spindle to mudguard 110mm, mudguard to tyre 17mm

You will get less toe clearance if you fit fatter tyres. That's why I quoted the
tyre size.

With my size 11 (47) feet, on the Orbit Orion I can just about touch the mudguard with my foot if I really try and make use of the excessive play in the bottom bracket. On the Koga, I couldn't touch the mudguard if I wanted too. I can't tell with the Horizon, it doesn't have pedals.

The Koga has disk brakes but it has straight bars, not drops. It's also hub gears, not derailleur. You might get some strange looks if you took it on an audax but I think it could do the job. You wouldn't want to load it too heavily, it only has 24 spokes per wheel.

Orbit used to do a touring/expedition bike which I think was called a Romany. If I remember correctly it had drop bars, disk brakes and 26 inch wheels. Sadly Orbit went bust.
by 7_lives_left
17 May 2008, 11:13am
Forum: Does anyone know … ?
Topic: Dropped bars
Replies: 33
Views: 4747

The single disadvantage that I can think of is that your hands are no longer permanently positioned a fingers length away from the brake levers. And if you need to do an emergency stop you have to quickly and instinctively move your hands on to the brakes with 100% accuracy. You need to give yourself time to learn that.

You will probably want to try out drop bars somewhere quiet first. If you are borrowing someone else's bike with drop bars to try out, make sure they aren't cluttered up with all the 'furniture' that some like to put along the tops like the cycle computer and the lamp and the map holder and ...

Edit: I don't think this single disadvantage out weights the benefits that all the others have listed.
by 7_lives_left
13 May 2008, 10:57pm
Forum: The Tea Shop
Topic: Carbon fibre
Replies: 91
Views: 8357

Are carbon fiber components affected by ultraviolet light? I imagine the fibres themselves would be fine, but what about the resin holding the fibres together? I seem to remember that some plastics degrade when exposed to direct sunlight.
by 7_lives_left
13 May 2008, 12:35am
Forum: Bikes & Bits – Technical section
Topic: My hub gears wont shift - what's up?
Replies: 19
Views: 4572

I removed my wheel from the frame then removed the dark grey plastic dust cover. I get a view just like in your figure. The piece in purple is attached to the red part. I am guessing it is some kind of cover to keep dirt out of the bearing. Perhaps it's just a press fit. It's strange that it should have come away. Is that a ball race behind the purple piece? Is it intact? Is there any marking on the inside of the purple piece that might explain why it has become detached?

I think Hubgearfreak and Thirdcrank are right, this is one for your friendly neighbourhood bike mechanic.

That's an impressive drawing you did, what software did you use to make it?
by 7_lives_left
10 May 2008, 10:14pm
Forum: Bikes & Bits – Technical section
Topic: My hub gears wont shift - what's up?
Replies: 19
Views: 4572

I am note sure I expressed myself clearly in the earlier post. You can download a copy of the SRAM manual from their web site using this this link here
hubgearfreak wrote:
seanspotatobusiness wrote:It is possible that I have moved the hub too far on the axel, away from the clickbox

i don't think so, the click box is positioned by the red thing isn't it. the red thing sits on a band machined into the axle, and the clickbox onto it. therefore the CB cant go in (towards the centre of the hub) too far

No I think seanspotatobusiness is on to something. Yes the click box and the red clip are positioned by the band machined on the axle. That will happen so long as you have enough axle sticking out. But there are also 'bits' halfway along the axle that have to line up with matching 'bits' attached to the inside of hub casing. If the hub nuts (over locknuts?) have shifted along the axel over time, maybe the axle and hub casing no longer line up. I'm looking at the figure on page 53 but I can't see a dimension that shown the position of the axle relative to the casing or the hub nuts. Perhaps I am wrong.

seanspotatobusiness wrote:Thanks for looking that up for me. I have now only the nut and protective arm between the fork and the clickbox (the thread is thus visible before the axle nut). I can now shift between gears 1-3/4 (three or four) but not higher. The gear lever works with little resistance (no more than usual, I think) but moving the lever to the higher positions doesn't translate to a gear beyond three or four. I wonder if the hub is now in the wrong place on the axel.

I don't know what's wrong, but that is an interesting result. I'll try and explain. The hub has 7 gear positions. However it only has 3 planetary gears inside. By some trick that I don't understand, each of the three planetary gears gets used twice. In positions 1, 2 and 3 they
gear down. In positions 5, 6 and 7 they gear up. We skipped position 4, that's direct drive or a ratio of 1:1 where none of the planetary gears are used but the sprocket turns at the same rate as the wheel.

If positions 1-4 are working it looks like gearing down and direct drive work, but gearing up doesn't. But I don't know why.

seanspotatobusiness wrote:Has anyone any idea how the gear changing works? There are two pins, one inside the other with a slit in the other one, which a nubin on the red plastic clickbox guide thing fits into. How do the pins translate into gear changes? Do they always move together or does one move one increment and then the next one follows on the next gear?

It's not that complicated. The inner pin is the important one. It slides the planetary gears along the axle to select the gear position. The outer pin with the slot in it doesn't actually move. It is just there to guide the arm in the clickbox that pushes the inner pin in and out so that the arm does not slide off the end on the inner pin.

That just about covers all my knowledge of hub gears I'm afraid.
by 7_lives_left
10 May 2008, 5:04pm
Forum: Bikes & Bits – Technical section
Topic: Handlebar paranoia
Replies: 18
Views: 2373

I had a pair of alloy drop handle bars fail on me, but it was maybe 10 years ago. Don't know the make. They had a short piece of tubing, maybe 5cm long, slipped over the central part of the bar where the stem clamped around it. I guess this was to strengthen it where the strain is greatest. The bar broke just where this short piece of tubing stopped.

Fortunately this happened while I was traveling quite slowly, so I could coast to a stop.

With hindsight these were poor quality bars. They always creaked and had a lot of give in them (which at least made them quite comfortable). Also I suspect I had taken a few minor tumbles with them which would not have helped. I am guessing that they had about five years of (ab)use.

The replacement bars I got were much wider and stiffer and made out of a decent alloy. I suspect they would have still been going strong if I had not total'ed the bike a year latter.
by 7_lives_left
10 May 2008, 11:42am
Forum: Bikes & Bits – Technical section
Topic: My hub gears wont shift - what's up?
Replies: 19
Views: 4572


I had a look at the SRAM tech manual here

On page 59, top right hand corner, there is a table titled "trouble shooting".

One of the entries in the table reads:
Probelm | Cause | Remedy
Shifting Difficulties | Too much additional axle attachments between hub and axel nut | Begining of axle thread must be visible in front of axle nut.

What do you think?
by 7_lives_left
9 May 2008, 9:10pm
Forum: Bikes & Bits – Technical section
Topic: My hub gears wont shift - what's up?
Replies: 19
Views: 4572

Hi seanspotatobusiness

I have a SRAM Spectro S7 Hub on my old bike. I suspect this is similar,
if not the same. Mine is without the hub brake however.

I have never dismantled it, the exploded view in the manual page on the web
was scary enough to discourage me from trying that.

When I had problems with gear changing after refitting the back wheel,
I found it was one of two things.

First was I had the chain tension too high. This made the gears stick.
I could change up to a higher gear, but changing down was troublesome.

Second was mis-seating the red plastic clip that slides over the axle and
that also mates with the click box. I failed to get the red clip to slide in to
the keyway/collar that surrounds the tiny rod in the center of the axle
that selects the gear. The symptom was that the gears were totally jamed,
couldn't change up or down.

Neither of these sound like your problem though.

These nuts you are tightening, are they the outer most nuts holding the
wheel in the drop outs? I never had a problem with these being too tight.
The bike has horizontal drop outs, so the tighter the better in my case,
to stop the wheel shifting.