Cycling UK Forum

Thanks for responses, especially GeoffL and 7_lives_left

If it's of interest to anyone (e.g. the OP whose question I impolitely hijacked), I got the Garmin Legend HCx and so far it seems excellent. I loaded an OpenStreetMap map onto it with ease (the base map included is really next to useless - from what I saw it includes no roads smaller than an A road).

It takes routes and tracks in .gpx format (which can be created on a number of sites - I used http://www.bikehike.co.uk/ ) which are highlighted on the map and you can follow as you go along which is exactly what I wanted.

More expensive units like the Dakota or the Edge certainly have better graphics, so I guess you need to weigh up if it's personally worth it to you to pay more for that, but the Legend is good enough for my purposes. Seems very rugged and fairly easy to use though there are a lot of menu options I've yet to explore fully.

As said above, it takes AA batteries so you don't need to worry about running out of power and finding somewhere to charge up, just take a few spare just in case.

Overall seems a very good buy.

(Apologies for slightly hijacking your question; however I hope any response will be useful to you as well)

I was considering getting the "Garmin eTrex Legend HCx" linked to above by amaferanga, and load Open Street Map maps on to it. (The base map that comes with it is, from what I've read, a big pile of pants)

However I'm slightly confused by this page : http://wiki.openstreetmap.org/wiki/Garmin - which has among the "bad points" listed that there is "no access to waypoints or tracks from SD card ". Now this reads to me that if you load a map on an SD card (e.g. Open Street Maps map), you can't follow a pre-programmed route.

Does anyone know if this is true, or if I'm misinterpreting?

Mostly what I want to do is plan out a route beforehand, load it up on to the Garmin, and be able to follow my route. Mainly because I have an abysmal memory for directions and at the moment on rides I have to stop every 10 mins or so for a map check - I'd like something on my bars I can glance down at frequently. I don't want it to "auto-route" for me.

Just a quick update to thank you for your help. I grabbed a spoke (and a few spare to ward off future spoke-tastrophes) and all the tools I need from my LBS (who were very nice and not at all patronising) and did the job successfully this evening. It wasn't nearly as complicated as I'd imagined (I'd scheduled much of the weekend for it but did it in half an hour tonight), so thanks for your guidance and especially MickF for your encouragement. I was Being A Bit Of A Girl and overcomplicating it mentally, but it is genuinely simple.

Ok, you may go back to your Hypercracker discussion. Whatever they might be.

I guess I've come across as a bit more than useless - I can understand the principle behind removing the cassette (this is very clear) - however I got lost when he's listing all the different types of hubs and splines and I don't know what info I can disregard and which is pertinent.

Also I was a bit overwhelmed with the array of similar-sounding tools (I only really looked at Wiggle admittedly) - "cassette lockring tool" vs "cassette removal tool" for instance; perhaps I'm being too pathetic in hoping for someone to actually point to a specific tool and say "USE THIS ONE. IT WILL WORK." I suspect I'll end up going along to the LBS, ask meekly for some tools, and hope to not be patronised to within an inch of my life.

Regarding spokes - the suggestion to go to a shop is probably for the best, thanks. However I need to get the damn cassette off before I can get that stupid spoke out.

In uncharacteristic organisation, I already have a spoke key in the post. (That's the one thing I figured out on my own!)

Thanks for your replies, it's rather clearer in my peanut brain now.


And thirdcrank - "spokesman"? Easily the worst pun I've heard all day.

I need to remove my cassette to allow me to replace a broken spoke. Some clear, idiot-proof advice on what tools to get and where to get a new spoke would be much appreciated.

First problem: I've taken a look around various sites (including Sheldon and Park Tools) but I'm getting totally confused as to what tools I need for my cassette (I'm not overly good at getting my head round mechanical things, which may prompt some to just direct me to an LBS to get this done, but I really want to learn). According to the bike manufacturer I have an "SRAM PG-830, 8-speed, 11-32t" cassette - Picture. If someone could link me to a tool or tools that would allow me to remove (and put back!) the cassette I'll be extremely grateful.

Second problem: I thought that simply buying a replacement spoke would be straightforward, but a glance around online shops comes up with a bewildering array of spoke options. I don't especially want to buy an entire set, which seems to be all I can find though I guess buying 5 or so would be ok so I have a few spare. So again, if someone could resist the urge to point and laugh at my inability to find such a simple item and give me a link to something suitable I would be very happy. (I have 700c wheels; the rims are "Specialized Globe, 700c, 32h, pinned, double wall disc, 32h" - I hope that's all the info required)

Thanks for your replies. Cunobelin's T-plate suggestion seems most promising, with ferrit worrier's P-clips following closely.

I got this Spin Doctor Deluxe stand last year and it's been great so far. Once initially assembled it's very easy to fold down and set up, and has a good range of heights and angles.

I'm hoping my problem has a really simple answer I'm too stupid to spot and I'm just overthinking this.

I've recently got a rack bag, which is great except it obstructs the rear reflector currently mounted on the seat post.

So - how do I mount the rear reflector? My rear light is on the back of the rack, so it can't go there. I was hoping to find a bracket that can attach to one of the rack struts, but I've not had any luck.

I don't have a drill (or any power tools, come to that) so I don't think I can attach it to the mudguard. Also, the bag has a rain cover, so if I were to attach it to the bag itself it would get covered over.

Not sure if this picture is any use, but hopefully illustrates the problem:

http://img25.imageshack.us/img25/6602/bike1.jpg

(I realise that a rear reflector probably isn't that important given that I have 2 back lights, pedal reflectors, and reflecty bits on the rack bag, and generally wear a high vis waistcoat and ride defensively. Still, it would be nice to be 100% legal; in the event of an accident that came to court I guess it would count against me if I didn't have what's required by law.)

The Waitrose in Henleaze, Bristol (near the Orpheus cinema) is doing it, for those of you who live in Bristol.

http://www.thisisbristol.co.uk/homepage/Bristol-Waitrose-letting-cyclists-use-trailers-shopping-home/article-598157-detail/article.html

I think it's a great idea; the article I link to says that there'll be 4 trailers available which doesn't sound like a lot, though.

I find that anything covering my mouth to be quite suffocating if you're working hard enough to have to breathe through your mouth, so although a balaclava would definitely be cosy you mind find you want to cut a breathing hole in it - if you're wearing it to avoid breathing in bitingly cold air it might not be the total solution you're hoping for.

I wear a thin skull cap under my helmet (pulling it right down to cover the forehead and ears) and a neck warmer, which does leave some face exposed to the cold but keeps me toasty enough. If you don't wear a helmet you could go for a lovely woolly bobble hat

I don't have any experience with chest problems and the prevention thereof, I'm just talking from a perspective of not getting frozen.

If you've "never cycled in these conditions" note that your head, face, hands and feet will get VERY cold if you don't protect them, even on a short ride. Body and legs not so much as you might think, though of course shorts and t-shirt may not be quite enough.

Good luck with returning to commuting!

Thank you!

Daniel B - Can I hijack this slightly and ask how you cut the stays, what equipment did you use? I have some I'd like to trim but I don't think I have anything good enough to chop them, and wondered how substantial a device was needed!

UrbanManc wrote:

digital kid wrote:One for working on a bike, I'm after one for Xmas and must not be more than £75.

Thanks in advance and even more thanks if you can post a link.

Cheers
dk

I've just bought this ............

http://www.wiggle.co.uk/p/Cycle/7/LifeLine_Spin_Doctor_Deluxe_Workstand/5360009217/

Good quality and worth the money.

I can second that recommendation - I bought one of these a couple weeks ago and I'm very happy with it. Sturdy, holds the bike good and steady, and once it's initially assembled it folds and unfolds very easily. Makes it a LOT easier to perform bike tinkerage.

Sorry, this is another "tell me what bike to get!" thread. However I would appreciate educated criticism comparing the 3 bikes below (with specs c&p'd from the manufacturers' sites), in terms of how good the components are (e.g. which has the better quality brakes, derailleurs etc).

I'll be using it for commuting and shopping with the odd weekend ride (all on road), and be fitting mudguards and a rack.

I'm pretty sure any of these bikes suits my needs reasonably, however I would appreciate clever people to tell me knowledgable stuff like "that cassette is notoriously pants, but those brakes are miles better", along those lines. Please patronise me and use simple words.


Trek Valencia 2009 (£450)
Fork: Cro-Moly steel w/lowrider mounts, straight blades, Clix dropouts
Wheels: Shimano RM65 Disc hubs; Bontrager Satellite Nebula rims
Tires: Bontrager Race Lite, puncture resistant, 700x32c; 60 tpi
Shifters Shimano: EF50, 8 speed
Front Derailleur: Shimano C102
Rear Derailleur: Shimano Deore
Crank: Shimano M361 48/38/28 w/chainguard
Cassette: SRAM PG830 11-28, 8 speed
Pedals: Soho, alloy body w/alloy cage
Saddle: Bontrager Nebula
Seat Post: Bontrager Nebula
Handlebars: Trek Urban, alloy
Stem: Bontrager SSR, 10 degree
Headset: Aheadset Slimstak w/semi-cartridge bearings, sealed
Brakeset: Shimano M416, mechanical disc w/Shimano EF50 levers




Specialized Globe Vienna Disc 3 (£450)
FRAME Specialized A1 Premium Aluminum trekking design, fully manipulated tubing w/ fender and rack braze-ons, integrated kickstand mount, forged dropouts, disc only
FORK Specialized A1 Premium Aluminum steerer and blades, disc only
HEADSET Specialized semi integrated, Campy style
STEM Globe 3D forged, 10 degree rise, 25.4mm clamp
HANDLEBARS Globe alloy riser bar, 25.4mm, 25mm rise, 620/640mm wide, 8 degree back sweep, 8 degree up
GRIPS Men's Body Geometry Comfort w/ integrated bell, closed end, 132mm
FRONT BRAKE Avid BB5, mechanical disc, 160mm G2 Clean Sweep rotor
REAR BRAKE Avid BB5, mechanical disc, 160mm G2 Clean Sweep rotor
BRAKE LEVERS Avid FR-5, two-finger, linear pull
FRONT DERAILLEUR Shimano Altus, 31.8mm clamp, top swing, dual pull
REAR DERAILLEUR Shimano Alivio
SHIFT LEVERS Shimano Rapid Fire, 3-speed
CASSETTE SRAM PG-830, 8-speed, 11-32t
CHAIN KMC X8 w/ reuseable Missing Link
CRANKSET Shimano FC-M36108 w/ chainguard
CHAINRINGS 48A x 38S x 28S
BOTTOM BRACKET FSA BB-7420, cartrdge bearings, 68mm x 122.5mm for 47.5mm chain line
PEDALS Globe, Body Geometry, anti-slip composite, 9/16"
RIMS Specialized Globe, 700c, 32h, pinned, double wall disc, 32h
FRONT HUB Specialized Hi Lo, disc, forged alloy, double sealed, ground race, 32h
REAR HUB Shimano FH-M475, disc, alloy, 32h, QR
SPOKES 1.8mm (15g) stainless
FRONT TIRE Specialized Nimbus, 700x35c, 60TPI, Flak Jacket
REAR TIRE Specialized Nimbus, 700x35C, 60TPI, Flak Jacket
INNER TUBES Specialized schraeder valve
SADDLE Specialized Sonoma, Body Geometry, 155mm width, front and rear bumpers
SEATPOST Specialized alloy two bolt, micro adjust, 27.2mm
SEAT BINDER Specialized forged alloy




Kona Dew Drop 2009 (£600)
Frame tubing: Kona 7005 Aluminum Butted
Fork Kona: P2 700c Disc
Headset: Ritchey LB-Plus
Crankarms: FSA Vero
Chainrings: 52/42/30
B/B: RPM 7420
Pedals: None
Chain: KMC Z-72
Freewheel: Shimano C Series (11-34, 8spd)
F/D: Shimano 2203
R/D: Shimano Deore
Shifters: Shimano 2203
Handlebar: Kona Sweeper
Stem: Kona RD
Grips: Velo Wrap w/Gel
Brakes: Avid BB-7 Road Disc
Brake Levers: Shimano 2203
Front hub: Formula Disc
Rear hub: Shimano M475 Disc
Spokes: Sandvik Stainless 15g fr/14g rr
Tires: Continental CountryRide 700x37C
Rims: Rigida ZAC19SL
Saddle: Kona Comfort
Seatpost: Kona RD
Seat clamp: Kona QR

This isn't a recommendation as such (as I don't own one of these) but the Kona Dew Drop might be worth a look?

Like your hubby I was thinking of getting the EBC Country Explorer, but Halfords Bike To Work scheme were unable to order it I'm still looking around and the Dew Drop is one model I'm seriously considering.