Cycling UK Forum

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The rear lamp goes in parallel with the front. The lamp you link to should be fine. Over the specific time the hub dynamo has not changed much, i.e., your dynohub find should be nearly as good as the most recent ones. However, the progress in lights has been dramatic. I would get a contemporary front LED with a standlight. The latter would have connectors for the rear lamp, so they would be both operated with the switch of the front.

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Braze-on mechs have been more common on road bikes and band-on on MTBs. Is the new mech made for the same chainring number that you currently have? The cage sizes and shapes should be comparable. Beyond that, you should be generally OK even if some other nominal details were different. In the worst case you can take the new mech off and go back to the original.

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cycle tramp wrote: ↑2 Apr 2021, 9:56pm The v-brakes used long shoes, the front of which ended up inside of the v-brake adapter plate. I kept the v-brake for a couple of years and then took them off. I found mounting the brake shoes too fiddly compared with the original caliper brake and the v brake adapter plate made everything look like a bodge and jarred with the understated engineering elegance as the rest of the bike.

Bike Friday NWT employs V-brakes and the front pads end up inside the narrow fork, so you end up having to deflate the wheel to take it off even though you can quick release the brake! On Brompton I added an in-line release and the wheel goes on and off without deflating.

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Mike Sales wrote:Does anyone else use talcum powder instead of scraping the chalk stick in the kit? Smells nicer!
I had difficulty in finding talcum powder in the chemists. Has it been supplanted by deodorant?
I use it in fitting latex gloves for resin work.

You can get Rema TipTop talc

https://jarukindustries.co.uk/products/rema-tip-top-talcum-powder

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In my tube repair kit I have a thick marker and, like others, I make a big cross with the hole at its center, before applying any glue. I add feathers to the lines pointing towards the hole, for redundancy. A secondary tool that I might sometimes use to recover the hole position is the Simson Leak Detector. It is not very effective when you need to look for a leak over a wide area, but it is OK when the general area is identified and you do not want to get your face next to the sticky glue.

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peetee wrote:I wonder if Brucey is Dr Hutch’s associate and some time ride partner, Bernard? Now that would be a hilarious twist in the tale of our illustrious forum comrade.

https://www.twi-global.com/who-we-are/i ... rty-rights

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If someone tells me that I should not use a kickstand, I go back in history to check whether I ever followed any advice of that person and to potentially revise the action. In any case, in any bike I seriously begin to use I have a braze-on done for a bombproof kickstand mounting. It is not my invention, but of a local builder. The essence is in a tube through which the kickstand bolt goes, that eliminates the possibility of deforming the mounting plate and the stays.

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Hebie has an adapter for the bottom bracket area, that works OK https://www.hebie.de/en/parking/stand-accessories/attachmspare-parts/stand-plate/

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The problem is more likely in the other direction, when a chain too thin for a cog or ring climbs onto the teeth.

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Vantage wrote:It really is life changing.
When he gets back on the bike, he'll need people to accompany him. It takes ages to get balance back.
There's no time line for stroke recovery. It may be weeks or years.
I had mine 3 years ago and I still get very tired easily and can no longer look behind me while riding without getting dizzy and veering off course.
It's going to be damn hard on him. Especially mentally. He'll want to break down crying sometimes. Probably. I sure did.

Thanks, Bill, for this dose of realism. For those close to me, the route after a serious stroke was similarly arduous. The cycling can easily be very low on the list of problems that one needs to deal with. Best wishes for your own continuation of recovery. Tricycle can be a solution when keeping balance becomes too much of an effort to be worth it.

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I do not use the coaxial Son cable either, but still got the coaxial adapter and soldered regular wires to the plug on the cable side.

https://www.sjscycles.co.uk/dynamos/sch ... onnection/

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I got myself the adjustable Park Tool SW-10 and there is also a similar Hozan C-122. They grab from two sides but the grip is tight, so in the end they work where other keys strip though nominally work on 3 or 4 sides. Neither is anymore in production, so they need to be hunted down.

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I use the same mixture for everything on the bike, from chain to keyhole in the lock. The two working substances in this case are T9 and LPS3. T9 thins the mixture and delivers LPS3 to the interior of the lock mechanism. I put it through the keyhole, but also from the locking side. Once T9 evaporates, it leaves LPS3 as a sticky wax paste filling the interior. Most often that is enough for preventing problems. However, in my area there are ice rains every once in a while and if one hits the lock, I must use a de-icing spray - there is no way out.

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xxcycle lists e.g. Stronglight and their own for 122mm or 122.5mm (in reality neither is accurate) and even some other Shimano:

https://www.xxcycle.com/bottom-bracket-classic,en.php

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In adjusting the in-line ones, you must use two hands, and those that jam - one. When you put one that jams by the shifter, you can make adjustments while riding, if there is any inaccuracy in shifting.

Cycling UK Forum

Search found 295 matches

Re: Question on an old SON dynamo: wiring & lamps

Re: Braze-on front mech using clamp/band on adaptor

Re: Rear v brake fitted to Brompton using v brake boosters as mount to fit on brake bridge bolt?

Re: Punctures. How to mark the hole?

Re: Punctures. How to mark the hole?

Re: Best wishes for Brucey

Re: Spa Tourer kickstand

Re: Spa Tourer kickstand

Re: Chainring and chains

Re: Best wishes for Brucey

Re: Dyanmo cable

Re: Recommend me a strong spoke key please!

Re: Finicky locks in winter...?

Re: Switching Bottom Bracket Widths

Re: Most best inline gear adjusters?