Cycling UK Forum

If you did a 'null hyposthesis' equivalaent on his new 5 pledges you would notice that they are just pointless soundbite. Who would possibly say they want the opposite. 'Oh so labour want to grow the economy as well?, they are just copying me'.

Pointless nonsense. He's acting like a middle manager with no authoritiy.

Where has the NHS waiting list pledge gone - too much like hard work i assume.

Looks out of alignment to me.

4400 and 4500 are 9s. 4600 and 4700/20 are 10s. Part number should be on the RD.

https://www.tredz.co.uk/.Cube-Hyde-Race ... fPEALw_wcB


Just to throw an alternative out there. I've been impressed my these when I've ridden them.

Internal gear hubs are not my favourite things. But there really do save a lot of agro especially if it's getting ridden 16miles a day in all weathers.

Bikes with IGH feel a bit less responsive and can feel back heavy, although when I rode a cube I didn't notice it as much. Maybe not performance, but I'd say as a commuter this is pretty good for £1000.

Carlton green wrote: ↑11 Nov 2023, 1:53pm
H’mm I’m wondering about that feed in tariff (fit) limit and suspect that it’s got something to do with payment bands. If panels can be more efficient and cheaper then it could become cost effective to break through the 4Kw barrier.

There was never a 4KW limit. After 4KW the tariff received reduced, but there was no limit other than the 5MW before you fell out the FIT scheme.

The defacto domestic limit was actually 3.68KW/16amps As this was most you could install on a single phase connection. Greater than 16amps/phase you had to apply to the local grid operator to approve or reject the higher export. Think of it as permitted development at 16amps or below vs full planning greater than 16amps.

Most 4KWp domestic installs are 4KWp of panels pushed through a max 3.68KW/16amp inverter to comply with the default grid requirements. Which is a decent enough combination because although you lose a bit of generation at peak load, your closer to hitting the sweet spot on the inverter efficiency.

A combination of roof space, tariff levels and grid connection, as well as lazy sales meant doing more than 4KWp on a domestic was very rare, but we did do a few.

Never ridden the ebike version but the Canyon Grail is a great bike, on road and 'gravel' albeit with two different wheel sets.

If the e-Grail follows suit it would be well worth a look.

Carlton green wrote: ↑31 Oct 2023, 8:33am It’d be interesting to have more details of your Father’s installation, please.

I think there is a few factors in this,

1) his PV is old, it's on one of the very high 2010/2011 tariffs, with deemed export rates at 50% of total production.

2) He was exporting way more than 50% as the PV was well over his usage.

3) he brought an EV. Which upped his overall usage.

4) the battery stored the excess power and pumped it straight into his car. This was effectively free power due to the tariff structure.

5) prices went through the roof, as he was on a time of use tariff the cap did not help him. So his bench mark to offset cost was probably even higher then the prices we pay as capped rates.

6) he doesn't really use any (net) power from grid anymore, with the EV his generation matches his demand, and the battery levels it out a lot, a long with his ability to control the EV charging and immersion from his phone.

7) he also uses the electric immersion heater to the HW tank more, when he has access to surplus.

finally he does the maths not me... but reckons taking into account the electricity saving, gas savings and petrol savings. It's paid for itself. I'm not sure what he spent on the battery, but I can see it. He does have almost 8KWp of solar connected to it which means a lot of 'free power'..

9) ignoring the fact he spent another 30k or so on an EV.

Biospace wrote: ↑29 Oct 2023, 5:39pm
Economy 7 cheap rate £0.20 / kWh
Standard single rate tariff £0.35 / kWh
No consumption of higher rate electricity

£0.15 * 8kWh * 365 days * 10 years = £4380

With a genuine time of use tariff I would expect to such larger gap between peak and off peak tariffs. For batteries, my Father installed his in 2020 and has already had his money back and more. Aided by a genuine time of use tariff, at times of huge pricing, and storing the generation from unused solar. I've always been a bit sceptical on domestic batteries but I can say I've been proved wrong in this case.

I can see a comeback for E7 style storage heaters, for those who can't install a heat pump, and conventional heating systems for those who can install.

I wish I'd not switched to a combi, all roads seem to.lead away from them now.

Sorry I missed that previous post. Squeaking is not a major issue, but if there is loss of power I'd definately be taking Jdsk advice.

But you could just try cleaning the rotor with isopropyl alcohol. Then trying again. I had a squeaky brake for ages.

Beld it. Changed pads. Cleaned cleaned cleaned using disc brake cleaner. Still squeaked cleaned with isopropyl alcohol and it went immediately. Even with the old pads.

I wouldn't do much more than clean it as it should be a warranty issue.

Take it back to Halfords. Get them to look at it.

If you want to do it yourself.

Buy a new set of pads. They will be cheap enough. Chuck the old ones away. Burning is a waste of time.

Inspect the caliper and rotor. Is there a lot of sticky stuff sort of glued to it. More than on other parts of the bike which take a similar spray area. Bottom bracket area? Other caliper. If it much worst on the effected caliper, this is a bit of a warning sign.

Clean the caliper and the disc just dry clean or water the worst off, then with isopropyl alcohol, and clean cloth... Not disc brake cleaner just use isopropyl.

Try the bike again. If it has less power then original, or if it starts ok but degrades quickly. Or picks up excess dirt again really quickly. Then you have a caliper leak. That would be on Halfords. So don't do anything to effect your warranty...

You can see it sometime on the stand....set it up squeeze the brake and see if fluid comes out somewhere. Sometimes it so.small it only happens under heavy braking.

Never seen them before, but they do look useful for barends, and especiallly if they allow you to refeed outers without unwrapping the bars.

i typed 'outer cable guide shimano' and found couple of option in stock. one on ebay. and another online shop which i've never used. (hence no links)

I'm about to build up my barend set,as they are cheap i think i'll take the risk and buy some, could be useful. .

I also use the ferrules to join cables just after the cable comes out the bar tape. Then i can pull it all out and replace with only the short piece under the bar tape remaining in place. Mainly so i can swap the handlebars between a road frame and a 'gravel' frame. Or pull off all the gears and ride it single speed, with just a bit of redundant cable under the wraps.

Measure the chain with a ruler - 12 links = 12 inches. a link being one inner and one outer.

if stretched, changing the chain now could save changing more stuff later.

i would use it but check it before and regularly for stretch. as soon as its showing stretch i'd bin it to save the chain ring.

Have you checked the chain is not worn/stretched, i know its only 1 month old, but it is possible.

What chain is it? I think all 9s chains are bi-directional, but worth double checking for some arrows.

what size in the largest sprocket on the bike.

Looking at the video, i'd say its actually pretty good, and certainly halfords won't improve it much, as at the end of the day its engaging all gears in both directions and you not experiencing any chain slip. but the extra noise on the shift from largest to second largest is a bit strange, are you fully clicking the gear down? or is it just a part shift you are doing on that change?

I would say rom the video that the cable just needs tightening a touch with the barrel adjuster, but seeing what you have done i feel you have already done this.

CyclingBlob wrote: ↑10 Oct 2023, 5:42am It then works fine all the way to the largest. Then when going the other way, the problem is with the 2nd largest sprocket where the chain will engage that gear, but the chain rubs on the larger sprocket. So effectively the cable isn't loosening off enough to let the chain settle well on that sprocket.

So when you are in the second largest sprocket having moved up from a smaller sprocket, all is fine.
When you are in the second largest sprocket, having come down from the largest sprocket, it rubs, but the gear engages.

Does the gear really engage, in that you can fully ride it, or does it slip and try and move? In particular if you push through the pedals, and apply some pressure probably on a hill?