Cycling UK Forum

Brucey wrote: ↑9 Oct 2023, 3:30pm good work fella! Dremel tool required for clean-up

cheers
Brucey

One tool I do not (yet) own... had a go with some sandpaper. It's not going to work...

531colin wrote: ↑26 Oct 2021, 9:21am

Re the problem of clamping 2 round things together (cable stop on frame tube) .....I think I would file a small flat on the cable stop, opposite the slot?

Right wow! only 2 years since i intended to do this, and finally! I limped the bike along without any gears for most of this time, then spent a while dealing with a stuck seat post, worked out a solution for rear mech hanger, took the paint off, and today i did the cables stops.

2 doubles on the top tube (FD and RD),
2 singles on the right seat stay (RD).
1 Single on the seat tube (FD top pull)
1 single on the down tube (FD bottom pull, or RD)

Why two options of the FD/RD, i had a spare cable stop so i used it between the existing cable guides on the down tube. where not enough space to run two.

Clamping etc. I used a £6.99 camera clamp from Amazon, put plumbers mat in the jaws to reduce the heat sink.
Solder - i used flat strips of silver solder and put them between the cable stop and the frame before i clamped. then just added a bit around the edges as needed. i used too much initially so need to work out how to get the exesss off the top tube! It was I bit fiddly setting it all up, but it worked well. Lots and lots and lots of flux helps.
Cable stops - round on round problem, i brought the double ones which are joined and tube shaped, then where i wanted a single i hacksawed it in half (hence the spare). so i had a nice tube shaped rounded bottom on single to help with the clamping.
Torch - just a basic butane torch did it easy enough.

Job done - woudl rather the ones on the seat stay actually lined up - but you live and learn )

Now just to get rid of the excess solder, and then repaint the bike.. couple more years i'm not in a hurry!

That has very much brightened up a Monday morning.
Great to see Brucey back. Welcome back.

rareposter wrote: ↑6 Oct 2023, 12:56pm you can still get M785 if you search around a bit but the nearest direct replacement will work fine.

I know it's finicky, but not easy in Silver. This is my last bike i've kept all silver components and finishing, still with a (fairly modern set up).
Currently i have a black M4100(?) lever and caliper powering the rear, caliper is sitting on a silver mount, going to a silver disc, attached to a silver hub, with silver spokes and silver rim. Lever is sat next to silver grip clamps, on a silver handlebar, going to a silver stem, with silver spacers on a silver headset. And yes the seat clamp, chainset and seat post are also silver.

rareposter wrote: ↑6 Oct 2023, 11:19am super reliable and near perfect availability of spares, even for fairly old brakes.

Thats one issue i'm having with my Deore XTs (M785s), the seals or pistons in the rear caliper are gone, but getting any (real) spares is impossible. I've chucked a cheap ugly decipher brake on for now while i decide what to do. Its fine for what i need, but the rare aasthetics of having all silver components on the bike are broken, and its getting harder and harder to do (without shelling out £400 for some hopes).

In this respect i do think Rim brakes will last longer before full replacement is needed. Just cause its easier to find replacement parts.

Ended up replacing the tire, the biggest hole was in the area where the tread meets the sidewall (so mainly the side wall) and would bulge even with the boot. I then tried one the plugs mentioned earlier, which i'm pretty sure are not meant for a sidewall, but did it anyway - and made it much worst. I was happy to try anything as the spare has arrived so i stuck the Maxxis Minion DHR on it instead.

Trying to get any initial air in it was a much bigger problem then the original, but eventually i got it started with the track pump. Then when it eventually got some initial air and sat (and i was getting worried i would need a special pump), there was only a tiny bit of sealant which came out in a couple of places on the rim.

I did buy a stans injector, but didn't inject via the valve. I just used it to transfer the sealant from the old to new, then topped up in the tire well.

The picture on the stans box showed using water in the injector afterwards to clean the valve, which looked a bit strange - so will need to watch the video to see what they mean. surely not injecting any into the tire? So i decided for now just to tip in in the tyre well again.

Couple of points on the Stans Injector i couldn't see a valve core remover on it, which would seem like a natural thing to include. Also i swear i've seen sealant injected where the hose goes in and through the de-cored valve, rather than around the outside of the de-cored valve. I was a bit surprised by this and hence the valve cleaning requirement which i side stepped.

If i could have got a innertube in it the tyre would have gone on potentially another 5 or 6 years, it was only about half done on the tread and the hole with a boot and an inner tube i reckon would have been fine. but i couldn't easily, and no way i wanted to risk a repair on the trail, so it does feel like its been disposed off early, which is always a shame from an enviromental perspective. Talking of which the sealant does contain micro particles of rubber, so was a bit disturbed with how to dispose of any waste. and I don;t know about the net enviromental effect of sealant vs inner tubes.

Overall it was easy enough to do, not really any more difficult than a regular inner tube, and no more time. You need the valves and the rim tape. I'll see how it goes then probably do the front at some point. I might move my MTB one day, but i like high pressures, and i don;t currently have any problem getting a tube in despite rim and tyre being tubeless. Most likely it will be when i finally update the MTB to something with a longer wheelbase and thru axles, which i'm itching to do.

peetee wrote: ↑6 Oct 2023, 8:54am I don’t bother to service Avid if they show any signs of age. I just recommend replacement with Shimano.

Exactly what my bike shop told me, when i asked them to service some Elixir 3. He wouldn't touch them.

I've used Pareclforce. Book direct on their site for oversize48 delivery.

100miles+ on a FS MTB.. good effort!

You'll find the Gravel Bike night and day different. If you watch some gravel biking on YouTube, you'll see the sort of terrain where they hope off and carry.

You'll be much faster on the gravel bike, but some of the 'fun stuff' you will probably need to dismount. That said as your on a stiff faster machine there is more fun stuff.

Basically it's going to come down to what your priorities are.. distance/speed. Or not getting out the saddle..

I have a Gravel bike, and hard tail. And i hire or borrow a FS every now and again. Speed/distance is not of huge importance for me. I mainly use the Hard tail for leisure rides with groups and the Gravel for commuting/occasionally exploring by myself..

That's Vitus looks a nice machine and with the discounts a bit of a bargain..

TheBomber wrote: ↑4 Oct 2023, 2:45pm your Pinarello looks like I regular inch and an eighth threadless to me.

I agree

TheBomber wrote: ↑4 Oct 2023, 2:45pm To confirm what you have you're likely to have to open them up and take some internal measurements

again agree - although slightly more difficult to get the internal ID on the Pinarello - as you will need to take the cups out.

Opening the Dahon up should be easy enough to measure as it looks like an IS one 41 or 42 probably.

Cane Creek also do a good online guide.
https://canecreek.com/wp-content/upload ... poster.pdf

You going to need to open them up.
If you open them up, there is a chance you will only need new bearings, rather than a full headset.


NOTE: that i think the photos are labelled the wrong way around. Dahon being the gery bike, Pinarello teh white one.

Biospace wrote: ↑1 Oct 2023, 11:40am

Jupestar wrote: ↑30 Sep 2023, 7:58pm ...also a good look at tidal lagoon and reducing the costs of that. Given our geography it's seems a possible solution.

The rest of the world is wondering why we're not doing more in this respect, all the while we're guaranteeing the French what many regard as well above the going rate for decade on decade for building and running Hinkley Point C.

Look at Italy, Austria, Switzerland, Nordic, all taking advantage of their mountains to generate hydro power. Its natural to their enviroment, and i bet if they had the tides we did they would all have tidal lagoons build 15 years ago.

We will do countless enviromental surveys, despite barrages, defence, locks and lagoons all over the world. therefore we will never have to make a decison and decide to build anything.

Woiudl it work - i don;t know, but its got to be worth trying and trying hard.

Completely agree with frieston post above, Disc and thru axles for pretty much any bike (new or secondand) i buy now. My sons MTB has both and its great.

i do agree on the cable vs Hydraulic. Cable discs would be preferable... but.. The industry (by that i mean SRAM and Shimano) are simply not bothered.

Go onto Wiggle (or elsewhere) - between SRAM and Shimano you can get one caliper. Its a Sora level. And pretty much zero levers - certainly no drop bar levers. To get a half decent set up its getting harder and harder to source.

I know you can get Avid BB5/BB7 etc. or TRP mixed with Shimano, and if you have the right levers (increasing hard to get) it will work well... but the main brands are not developing it anymore. Much like the mini disc player, perfectly good technology, but the CD was adopted instead.

When was the last update on the Spyre or the BB7. Its done now, can;t see it going further.

Find me anything but the most basic cheap low end 'MTB' with cable discs.

freiston wrote: ↑2 Oct 2023, 12:59pm I would get Paul Components Klampers if I could get them and have the money for them.

Of course this is the other end of the market. One calipier is twice the price of a full perfectly good entry lever shimano Hydraulic brake set fully installed. A full set up is going to cost you close to a new bike. Its simply not going to be progressed now.

Thanks Rareposter - I do wonder if the tyre has gone before the end of it life now. The hole I would say is not that big. But is in a awkward position where the edge of the tread finishes and the side wall starts.. the tread is worn a bit but there is definately tread still on it.

If I could get a tube in without the hassle I would still use it, but I can't, and if it went on the trail I would be b********.

I've brought a Maxxis Minion DHR TL 24 for a huge sum of £40.. and the stans injector to go with it. the tread pattern on the minion looks identical to the one coming off.

Setting up tubeless is actually quite easy. Not much more to it then setting up with tubes. I'll see how I go with this MTB. Might slowly switch over myself.

Sometimes I think car drivers are blind to cyclists.

Sometimes I think they see, just pull out anyway thinking they left enough room for the cyclist.

Obviously neither is good.

Nearholmer wrote: ↑1 Oct 2023, 6:41pm Er ….. it was Rareposter who gave the hood description, rather than me!

Many thanks to Rareposter as well

having had a go at it all the advice above from Rareposter and Nearholmer makes perfect sense.

It's not something I've been bothered to do before , as I like to run my MTB at around 60PSI. And always felt like a hassle to set up, put really it's not at all. And I'd never have found that hole, (which is right near the tread) without the sealant.