Cycling UK Forum

Heard good things about the subway 2. I’ve mentioned it to a friend in the office, who is also interested. Rigid over FS makes a lot of sense and is a good choice.

Halfords seem to have some good options. The boardmans seem very popular with those who commute in by road bike.

This is a fantastic piece of design and engineering.

Am I correct in calculating the distance from the shoulder of the RHS hub to the outside of the small sprocket is ~36mm on the original 5s and ~34.4mm on the re-engineered 6s?

I use a bigger rucksack and put his in mine. Mine is collapsible so gets shoved my pocket if it not got any of my stuff in it. His drink bottle goes in the drink holder as it’s prone to leaking on my clean clothes in the bag...

https://www.decathlon.co.uk/p/travel-ul ... 286&c=GREY

chris_suffolk wrote:
Are you suggesting that shops would reduce the postage for small items - i.e. SJS would charge less for a single hanger? There's no indication of this on their site, and experience suggests that they don't. I guess if I conatcted them and asked them they might, but that's just hassle I don't need.

You may be able to negotiate a £2 discount on postage if you contacted them, if they could manage that operationally, and you got through to the right person, but as you say it’s hassle they (and you) don’t need.

Most visitors to the site direct will be buying more than one item. Orders will be fattened out with inner tubes, repair kits, possibly a spare hanger to take advantage of spreading the postage, or even free postage. Buyers on eBay will most likely be buying a single item.

If you buy 2 different hangers, 4 inner tubes and 2 puncture repairs kits on Ebay I bet your total postage is > than if you did it all online at a single shop.

Postage prices are just calculated on average baskets values/expected weights, with minimum fees sometimes applying for certain items.

That’s the way we do it anyway. It’s an average price, to enable a cleaner online transaction.

Get through to us when we are not to busy and we would work out the postage a bit more accurately, often the postage will be ‘underpriced’ but we wouldn’t be worried as the order value would net off. For a small item, we would probably reduce it, but it customer satisfaction really, operationally a bit of a pain. (We don’t sell bike parts).

It’s just averages for them.

Buyers from the website will normally buy more than one item. eBay buyers are normally just buying 1 item.

£3.50 works out for them on average. For the basket value.

On the single hanger it would in reality be much less.

Just checked mine, they are Promax 482 brake set. So not exactly the same.

The M12 bolt arrived today. I can confirm with a bit of faff trying to get the spanner to stay on, they did come off with out too much trouble.

Luckily I brought a matching nut, and was able to use the same bolt it to get the RH BB cup out as well.

95p spent.. BB and Crankset able to be re-used and will go in the draw never to be seen again.

I had these type of promax levers going to promax calipers on a single speed bike. Brought from new, but never got them working to my satisfaction. I believe they are substandard.

I played with them for ages believing it was the set up (probably was to some extent). I progressively changed them, Swissstop pads first, then jagwire cables, new calipers (TRP RG957), and eventually levers (Dia Compe Dirty Harry, installed on the tops).

Each step was an improvement, but ultimately changing the calipers and levers was the major difference.

I recently had the levers out again, and it just takes so much movement to get the cable pull. It almost impossible from the hoods. It’s almost like the start of the pivot is wrong and the first part do the lever pull is just wasted.

They are currently on my turbo now, not connected to anything, just giving hand positions. They are at least useful now.

Why don’t the ones you’ve been looking at fit the Bill? 15years on and off rollers, I did quite a lot of research before I brought my direct drive turbo recently. That suited me as I wanted something immersive, able to simulate terrain and most importantly small enough to keep out the way..

My mate had completely different priorities and got a dedicated indoor bike. Made sense for her as no interest in having a road bike, or swapping wheels etc.

Rollers suited me previously cause I only had a commuter bike and I could just Chuck it on without worrying too much about trashing them with the debris that came off it.

I’m indoors a lot now, young kids force it on you.

Just moved from a set of rollers, to a direct drive turbo. I always just hit the single speed on the rollers, the turbo mixes it up a bit as I use it to simulate climbs in Italy I want to do, or do quicker.

At the end of the day if it’s just fitness then it’s just cadence and watts. It’s helping me home in on the best gears to use on the climbs though so that is a bonus. Just hope it’s realistic. Either way it’s a bit more interesting.

Turbo let’s me sit up a bit more while I’m watching the football. Rollers were a bit more jumpy if I decided I wanted hands free...

Mick F wrote:
My first thought is the National Cycling Museum. They accepted my 1968 MK1 RSW16 there last year, but that was in far better condition than this RSW14

Would it really be THAT much work to give the RSW16 a little sister?

I’d have saved it from the skip, way too much character to be going to waste.

Glad I didn’t come across it though as who knows what I’d do with it.

Yes, this method with the Cyclone and the screwfix degreaser works much better than expected, i may never have to remove the chain again until it’s worn.

Bit messier than expected, but I’m sure I’ll refine that with practice and when doing it in daylight.

Brucey wrote:Cranks like that are designed to be removed using a standard M12 bolt as an extractor tool. There are M12 threads up the middle.

Yes I can see those 4 or 5 extractor threads now. Probably not a bad design if you can find a M12 bolt, I can’t unfortunately. Might have to buy one out of curiosity now....

Help and advice much appreciated

gregoryoftours wrote:I've seen those before, they are that crap that they aren't even designed to be removed. If you have a chunky pry bar I find the easiest way is jamming it between the crank and BB, lever off pulling the bar towards you.

As I suspected, if they really are that crap, I’ll just dump them with the frame. Don’t want to ruin the wrecking bar.