Cycling UK Forum

I've got both pd-a530 and pd-eh500 on different bikes. The eh500 flat side with pins are a definite improvement over the older pedals.

Fantastic, thank you for posting this. I'll look into getting flange nuts and also have a watch of those videos.

Are they 5800?

I have the same problem with one of mine. I think the screw goes into plastic (or something else weak) and it gets stripped fairly easily. Mine were fine till I had a minor crash.

That's amazing, thanks so much!

I've got all the non brake specific tools, so if I get:

R7020 shifters (I'll probably get R7025 as they are a bit smaller which suits me)
MT200 set (front and rear, about £40)
eBay bleed kit (about £4)
BH59 inserts for the shifter ends of the hoses (about £3 each)
Tube cutting tool (about £4)

It looks like I'm good to go. Thanks again!

Through a combination of corrosion and crash damage the shifters and calipers on my Giant Defy are past their best and could do with replacing. Despite using compressionless housing, decent pads, and constantly fettling the calipers they’ve never felt as good as the entry level Shimano hydraulics on my MTB. So given I need to replace nearly all the parts anyway I'm planning to swap the mechanical system to hydraulics.

For the shifters I’m planning on getting a set of decent second hand ST-R7020 from eBay.

The frame has post mountings so I’m planning on getting MTB calipers as there is more choice and they are cheaper. I was planning on BR-MT400 calipers - which brings us to my questions:.

1. Apparently the R7020s use BH90 hose but the MT400s use BH59 hose. Am I right that it doesn’t really matter which hose I use as long as I use the right inserts - which would be the silver one at both ends with BH90, or the gold one at both ends with BH59?

Or should I be using calipers and shifters that use matching hose types, meaning I should go for something like BR‑M615 calipers with the R7020s?

2. I know I’ll need to buy a bleed kit to set it all up, am I right that this would give me everything I need?: https://epicbleedsolutions.com/products ... -bleed-kit

3. Is there anything else I need to know or think about?

Any advice is very welcome, and thanks in advance!

I had some Ultra Sport IIs that came with my road bike. They felt very nice but punctured far too easily for my liking.

jaybee66 wrote:After numerous cars pulling out on me this week I'm thinking of installing strobe style lights on my flatbars so the "I didn't see you" excuse won't be valid anymore !!!

I'm looking at these Knogs [url]https://ebay.to/2YERrjm
[/url]

Anybody use similar ? Do you think 2 would be overkill ?

Thanks for any advice,

Regards

J

I use a set of Lezyne Femto Drive USB. Very happy with then so far and they are about £22 for the set of two. They are bright and the battery life is good.

I'm not going to get into the whys and wherefores of using DRLs other than to say that I'm pretty sure I notice bikes with flashing lights when they are further away than those without.

As long as the valve length is long enough for your wheels, and you want Presta, that looks right to me.

I used to run RD-R7000 short cage with an 11-32 and it was fine.

I dropped the bike last November and bent the cage, so I replaced it with the long cage parts and that works fine too.

Of course YMMV.

I have a Uniqlo one, I quite like it. If you're getting one in store check the zip before you buy it, mine is a little bit dodgy although running a pencil over it seems to have made the problem go away.

My feet are too wide for Shimano. Giro fit me well though.

rmurphy195 wrote: ...decided to try SPD's. Now I wouldn't be without them. I use MTB shoes where the treads are proud of the cleats (until they wear!), and have single-sided pedals with the cleat tension backed-off to its minimum. I can them pop onto the bike in normal shoes and use the backs of the pedals

Same here.

Trigger wrote:I think... the Wahoo

Wahoo Elemnt definitely does. You choose the order of the data you want it to display and then you can zoom in and out. As you zoom in the data items at the top of your list get bigger and bigger and the ones at the bottom of the list get hidden.

Brucey wrote:there are at least four main things that make tyres seem easy to fit/remove or not.

1) the tyre/tube
2) the rim
3) the tyre levers
4) the person changing the tyre

any or all of these things can be the weak link. All can vary more than you might expect them to.

Hi OP,

Don't underestimate the relevance of point 4 in Bruceys list!

Practice at home 4 or 5 times and you might be amazed how much quicker you get at this. It made a big difference to me.

I found this video really helpful.
https://youtu.be/ewPeojRSa0k

Cheers,
Ian

I might be remembering this wrong but I think this is the way:

Remove wheel
Remove locknut and cassette
Remove NDS axle bolts
Bash out axle with soft face hammer from NDS
Insert 11mm hex key into NDS and release freehub

Reverse the above to reassemble.

I don't know if the freehub will come off with the cassette still attached, I wouldn't have thought so but I didn't try it as I was replacing mine. I think you might need access to the drive side bolts to get enough purchase to undo the ones on the NDS. Anyway it's easy enough to get the cassette on and off.